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GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


BY 
CELESTINE  LEONTINE  SCHMIT 

ASSOCIATE  PROFESSOR  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS, 
UNIVERSITY  OF  WISCONSIN 


ILLUSTRATED 

WITH  PHOTOGRAPHS 

AND  DIAGRAMS 


NEW  YORK 

THE  CENTURY  CO. 

1919 


Copyright,  19 19,  by 
THE  CENTURY  Co. 


TO 

MADAME  A.  GUERRE 

AND  TO 

HER  DAUGHTER, 
MADAME  LE  COMTE 

Professors  in  the  "Ecoles  Professionelles' 

and  the  University  des  Annales  of  Paris, 

my  former  teachers,  from  whom  I 

drew  much  inspiration  and 

enthusiasm  for 

this  work 


A 


PREFACE 

So  far  sewing  has  not  received  the  attention 
which  it  should  in  the  school  curriculum,  and  yet 
no  other  subject  helps  more  to  cultivate  thrift, 
order,  and  economy.  With  the  introduction  of 
the  straight  line  drafting,  one  finds  that  since 
1886  the  teaching  of  sewing,  cutting,  and  gar- 
ment making  has  found  an  equal  place  with 
academic  studies  in  most  of  the  girls'  schools 
in  European  countries.  The  value  of  this 
teaching  on  the  economic,  social,  and  moral 
conditions  of  these  countries  has  been  well  rec- 
ognized. 

In  addition  it  will  offer  an  opportunity  for 
close  correlation  with  other  subjects  in  the 
school  curriculum,  such  as  drawing,  arithmetic, 
English,  etc.  It  enables  the  instructor  to  give 
more  class  instruction  than  has  heretofore  been 
possible  in  the  teaching  of  sewing. 

The  subject  matter  includes  the  sewing,  the 
cutting,  and  the  making  of  the  most  necessary 
garments  in  any  girl's  wardrobe. 

Each  lesson  is  a  complete  unit.  In  the  selec- 
tion of  the. work  care  has  been  taken  to  make 

ix 


x  PREFACE 

sure  that  the  lesson  of  one  day  reviews  that  of 
the  previous  day  and  prepares  for  the  one  in 
advance.  To  acquire  skill,  repetition  is  neces- 
sary. This  has  been  kept  in  mind  and  the 
writer  has  endeavored  to  make  the  repetition 
less  tiresome  and  more  profitable  by  giving  it 
'  variety.  Each  lesson  is  followed  by  such  ques- 
tions as  will  create  thought  and  discussion  on 
the  part  of  the  members  of  the  class,  and  also 
will  give  suggestions  to  the  teacher. 

Special  attention  has  been  given  to  the  intro- 
duction of  all  possible  short  cuts  in  the  con- 
struction of  garments,  without  sacrificing  the 
standards  of  work.  Only  such  garments  as  are 
used  in  the  trade  at  the  present  time  are  pre- 
sented in  this  text. 

Every  problem  and  garment  described  has 
been  fully  worked  out  in  the  vocational  schools 
in  Wisconsin  under  the  personal  direction  of 
the  writer. 

The  aim  of  the  text  is  to  inspire  a  love  for  the 
work.  Long  experience  has  proved  that  a 
growing  interest  in  handiwork  can  be  developed 
in  almost  every  girl,  provided  that  the  efforts 
of  the  student  are  rewarded  with  adequate  re- 
sults. 

The  aid  rendered  in  the  organization  and 
preparation  of  this  text  by  Dean  H.  L.  Russell 


PREFACE  xi 

of  the  University  of  Wisconsin  is  gratefully 
acknowledged  by  the  author. 

C.  L.  S. 

University  of  Wisconsin, 
Madison,  July,  1919. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I  APPLICATION    OF    HAND    AND    MACHINE 

SEWING 3 

II     GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION 17 

III  SEWING  APRON 27 

IV  PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN     ....     37 
V  KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS  ....     48 

VI  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE       .      .     61 

VII  KIMONO   NIGHTGOWN   WITH   TUCKS  AND 

HAND-MADE  TRIMMING 71 

VIII  WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON 78 

IX  GORES 87 

X  COOKING  OR  SERVING  APRON  ....  92 

XI  PETTICOATS 104 

XII     DRAWERS 124 

XIII  SKIRTS 143 

XIV  MIDDY  BLOUSE 167 

XV     SHIRT  WAIST 200 

XVI     CORSET  COVER 221 

X  /II  ENVELOPE  CHEMISE                                   .  234 


FOREWORD 

Until  recent  years  the  art  of  cutting  women's 
and  children's  garments  without  the  aid  of  com- 
mercial patterns  has,  in  this  country,  been 
known  only  to  dressmakers  and  tailors.  It  is 
possible,  however,  for  any  one  to  master  the 
definite  yet  simple  underlying  principles  which 
the  system  of  drafting  here  presents  and  thus 
be  able  to  make  in  a  very  short  time  a  perfect 
fitting  skirt  and  waist  pattern.  These  patterns 
may  be  readily  used  as  a  base  upon  which  all 
the  patterns  needed  for  other  garments  can  be 
developed.  This  method  originated  with  Mme. 
A.  Guerre  and  is  extensively  used  in  the  public 
schools  of  France.  Through  its  use,  the  ex- 
pense and  wastefulness  of  commercial  patterns 
may  be  eliminated. 

The  method  is  based  on  geometric  principles 
and  is  the  result  of  years  of  careful  and  patient 
observations  both  in  the  class  room  and  in  prac- 
tice in  the  home.  It  is  clear,  precise,  and  leaves 
nothing  to  hazard. 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

CHAPTER  I 

APPLICATION    OF   HAND   AND   MACHINE    SEWING 

In  the  sewing  outfit  illustrated  here,  all  the 
stitches  and  many  of  the  seams  with  which  pu- 
pils are  already  familiar  are  reviewed. 

"A  place  for  everything  and  everything  in 
its  place"  is  demonstrated  here. 


.-<?** 


y .      TCC\ 


FIG.  1. — SEWING  OUTFIT 

A,  Sewing  bag;  B,  spool  holder  with  scissors  and  thimble; 

C,  needle  book ;  D,  pin  cushion 

3 


•4;  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

This  sewing  outfit  includes: 

1.  Sewing  bag. 

2.  Needlebook. 

3.  Spool  holder  with  a  place  for  scissors, 
thimble,  stiletto,  bodkin,  emery  bag,  etc. 

4.  Pincushion. 

To  make  the  outfit  2/3  of  a  yard  of  36"  ma- 
terial is  required. 

SEWING  BAG 


FIG.  2. — SEWING  OITTFIT 

I,  Sewing  bag;  II,  bottom  of  sewing  bag,  with  divisons 
marked;  III,  needle  book:  IV,  spool  holder;  V,  top  part  of 
spool  holder;  VI,  pin  cushion. 

A,  Turned  hem;  B,  casing;  C,  hem;  D,  folded  over  part  and 
divisions  for  pockets. 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING   5 

Required  Material 

1  piece  of  material  14"  by  36",  2  pieces 
of  material  5"  by  5",  2  pieces  of  card- 
board 4"  by  4"  in  diameter,  2  yards  of 
cord  or  ribbon,  1  spool  of  cotton  or  silk 
thread,  1  skein  of  embroidery  cotton, 
sewing  needle  No.  9,  bodkin,  fine  steel 
pins. 

To  Make  the  Bag 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  material  14"  by  36". 

2.  If  there  is  a  selvage  on  the  sides  turn  the 
material  only  once;  if  there  is  a  cut  edge,  turn 
the  material  ya"  and  fold  this  over  %".     The 
raw  edge  may  extend  a  little  beyond  the  turned 
edge. 

3.  Join  together  with  an  overhanding  seam. 

4.  Press  the  seam  open  and  cut  away  the  raw 
edges,  if  any,  from  under  the  turn. 

5.  Turn,   pin   or  baste   a  i/>"  hem  on  the 
lower  cut  end  of  the  material  and  stitch  this  by 
machine,  or  finish  with  either  a  hemming  or  a 
fancy  stitch. 

6.  Fold  over  1%"  for  the  upper  hem;  crease 
this  well. 

7.  Put   in   a   basting   thread    1"   below   the 
folded  edge. 

8.  Leave  y2"  space  below  the  basting  or  iy2" 
from  the  folded  edge  of  the  hem. 


6  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

9.  Measure  7y2"  down  from  the  top.     Turn 
the  material  wrong  side  out  and  baste  down. 

10.  Divide  the  bag  into  halves  with  colored 
thread,  then  into  four,  and  then  into  eight  parts. 

11.  Stitch  by  machine  or  work  over  these  di- 
visions with  a  running  or  fancy  stitch,  to  form 
the  inside  pockets. 

12.  Gather  by  machine,  or  run  two  rows  of 
very  fine  stitches  Vs"  apart  at  the  lowest  edge. 

13.  For  the  bottom,  cut  two  round  pieces  of 
cardboard  4"  by  4"  in  diameter.     Cut  the  ma- 
terial 1"  larger  than  the  cardboard  and  make 
a  fine  running  stitch  around  the  edge. 

14.  Draw  the  thread  up  a  little  and  insert  the 
cardboard;  then  draw  the  thread  so  that  the 
material  fits  over  the  cardboard  tightly  and 
smoothly,  holding  it  in  place  by  criss-crossing 
several  threads. 

15.  Make  both  the  bottom  pieces  in  the  same 
way  and  join  or  baste  them  together. 

16.  Divide  the  bottom  edge  into  eight  sections 
with  colored  thread. 

17.  Pin  the  sections  of  the  bottom  to  the  sec- 
tions of  the  bag;  draw  up  these  threads  and 
overhand  the  top  to  the  bottom. 

18.  Take  out  a  few  stitches  in  the  casing  of 
the  hem  of  the  seam  and  opposite  this  make  an 
eyelet.     Two    cords    should    be    used.     These 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING   7 

should  be  drawn  through  in  opposite  directions. 
(See  Fig.  1  A,  Fig.  21,  VI.) 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Cut  the  bag. 

2.  Make  a  Vi"  turn  along  the  cut  edge.     Crease  or 
pull  a  thread. 

3.  For  the  hem  and  the  casing  measure  ll/2"  from 
the  turned  edge. 

4.  For  the   casing  measure   1"   from   the  turned 
edge.     Crease  or  pull  a  thread. 

5.  Overhand  the  selvages  together. 

6.  Pin  the  hem  down  and  run  one  shirring  thread 
for  the  casing. 

7.  Make  the  hem. 

8.  Make  a  %"  hem  on  the  other  side  of  the  bag. 
Hem  this  by  hand  or  stitch  it  by  machine. 

9.  Measure   5"    from   this   hem   for   the    pockets. 
Crease  this  firmly  or  draw  a  thread. 

10.  Divide  the  bag  into  eight  parts.     Mark  these 
divisions  with  a  colored  thread. 

11.  Run  two  gathering  threads  %"  apart  very  close 
to  the  bottom  edge.     These  gathering  threads  may  be 
put  in  by  machine. 

12.  Prepare  the  two  parts  for  the  bottom  of  the 
bag. 

13.  Divide   each   part   into   eight  sections.     Where 
the  parts  are  divided  into  sections  sew  them  together 
with  an  overhand  stitch. 

14.  Pin  the  sections  of  the  bag  to  the  sections  of 
the  bottom. 


8  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

15.  Draw  up  the  gathering  thread  of  the  bag  to  fit 
the  bottom  of  the  bag. 

16.  Sew  the  upper  part  of  the  bag  to  the  bottom 
with  an  overhand  stitch. 

17.  Make  a  running  or  a  fancy  stitch  over  the  divi- 
sions in  the  bag,  or  stitch  these  by  machine. 

18.  Make  two  cords  for  the  bag. 

19.  Run  the  cords  in  the  casing  of  the  bag. 

20.  Finish  the  cords  with  a  knot  or  tassel. 

QUESTIONS 
1.  What  material  has  been  used  for  making  the 


2.  'What  other  material  could  be  used  ? 

3.  Name  the   different  kinds  of   bags   and   their 
uses. 

4.  What  material  is  used  in  the  different  types  ? 

5.  What  bags  are  especially  used  at  the  present 
time?     Why? 

6.  What  stitches  were  used  in  the  making  of  the 
bag? 

7.  What  seams  were  used  in  the  making  of  the 
bag? 

NEEDLE  BOOK 

Required  Material 

2  pieces  of  cardboard  3"  by  5",  2  pieces 
of  cloth  5"  by  1",  1  piece  of  cloth  3"  by 
7",  2  pieces  of  white  cotton  flannel  3" 
by  5",  thread,  needle,  and  pins  as  for 
the  sewing  bag. 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING   9 

Cut  through  the  center  two  pieces  of  card- 
board 3"  by  5",  to  secure  four  pieces  3"  by  2^". 

Cut  two  pieces  of  covering  5"  by  1". 

Lay  the  material  over  one  of  these  cardboard 
pieces,  being  careful  to  have  the  warp  and  the 
woof  at  right  angles.  Turn  the  edges  over,  mi- 
ter the  corners,  and  hold  the  material  in  place 
with  pins.  Then  baste  the  corners  and  hold 
the  edges  down  by  criss-crossing  threads  from 
side  to  side. 

Repeat  this  process  on  the  other  cardboard, 
leaving  i/4"  space  in  the  center. 

Before  applying  the  inside  piece,  take  a  3"  by 
1"  piece,  turn  the  raw  edge  over,  and  baste  this 
to  the  middle.  Fold  the  edges  over  the  card- 
board, pin  both  the  covers  together,  arid  join 
them  with  an  overhand  stitch.  Hold  the  cen- 
ters in  place  with  2  rows  of  running  stitches 
i/4"  apart. 

Cut  2  pieces  of  white  flannel  3"  by  5";  pink 
the  edges  or  finish  these  with  a  blanket  stitch 
and  fasten  the  pieces  to  the  cover.  (See  Fig. 
1  C,  Fig.  2  III.) 

SPOOL  HOLDER 

Required  Material 

6  pieces  of  cardboard  5"  long,  1"  wide 
at  the  top  and  1%"  wide  at  the  bottom; 


10  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

6  pieces  of  material  7"  by  3%",  1  piece 
of.  cardboard  3"  by  iy2",  1  piece  of 
cardboard  1"  by  2",  1  piece  of  material 
5"  by  21/0",  1  piece  of  material  2"  by  3", 
needles  and  thread  as  for  previous  ar- 
ticles, and  5  spools  of  thread  of  various 
numbers  to  put  in  the  holder. 
To  make  the  spool  holder,  cut  six  pieces  of 
material  7"  by  S1/^",  and  cover  the  six  card- 
boards by  following  the  directions  given  for  the 
needle  book.     The  middle  piece  has  an  addi- 
tional pocket  on  the  top  to  hold  the  scissors. 
This  is  covered  on  the  piece  of  cardboard  3" 
long  V  wide  at  the  bottom  and  1%"  wide  at 
the  top.     The  top  is  cut  to  a  point. 

Pin  each  top  piece  to  the  bottom  one  and  then 
join  the  three  pieces  together  with  an  overhand 
stitch,  a  cross-stitch,  or  any  other  fancy 
stitch. 

Cover  a  piece  of  cardboard  1"  wide  by  2"  long 
with  the  same  material  and  fasten  it  to  the  up- 
per corner. 

A  number  of  spools  of  cotton  and  silk  thread 
are  laced  to  the  holder.  The  spaces  between  the 
lacing  on  the  top  cover  may  be  used  as  holders 
for  the  glove  darner,  stiletto,  bodkin,  pencil,  etc. 
(See  Fig.  1  B,  Fig.  2  IV,  V.) 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING      11 
PIN  CUSHION 

Required  Material 

2  pieces  of  material  3%"  in  diameter, 
bran,  sawdust,  or  vegetable  hair  for  fill- 
ing, needles  and  thread  as  for  previous 
articles. 

If  the  material  used  is  not  strong,  line  it  with 
white  muslin.  Be  careful  to  see  that  the  warp 
and  woof  of  both  the  outer  and  the  inner  ma- 
terial run  in  the  same  direction. 

Bun  a  basting  thread  up  and  down,  and  from 
side  to  side  to  divide  the  circular  pieces  into 
four  equal  sections. 

Join  the  parts  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  com- 
bination stitch,  leaving  an  opening  of  I1/*?". 
Baste  the  raw  edge  down  all  around  the  open- 
ing. 

Press  the  seam  open  and  turn  the  cushion 
right  side  out.  Fill  it  with  curled  or  vegetable 
hair,  sawdust,  or  bran. 

After  the  cushion  is  well  filled,  overhand  the 
opening. 

Make  a  fancy  stitch  over  the  seam. 

With  a  strong  thread  or  embroidery  cotton, 
divide  the  cushion  into  eight  parts.  Draw  up 
the  dividing  threads  so  that  the  cushion  looks 
like  a  pumpkin.  (See  Fig.  1  D,  Fig.  2  II.) 


12  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

HOLDER  AND  COVER 

Holders  are  used  in  every  food  class.  There 
should  be  at  least  two  sets  for  each  student :  A 
set  consists  of  two.  A  holder  may  be  made  of 
three  thicknesses  of  outing  flannel  or  of  any 
remnants  which  may  be  on  hand.  Very  often 
the  holder  is  slipped  into  a  cover.  (See  Figs. 
3  and  4.) 


FIG.  3. — HOLDER 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING      13 

Required  Material 

Three  thicknesses  of  material,  5%" 
square,  No.  70  white  thread  for  ma- 
chine stitching,  1  spool  of  coarse  soft 
crochet  cotton,  No.  6  crewel  needle,  a 
piece  of  muslin  13"  by  6"  for  the  cover, 
%  of  a  yard  of  tape,  or  instead  of  the 
tape  a  strip  of  cloth  iy2"  wide  and  % 
yard  long. 
The  holder  is  a  short  problem  and  affords  the 

teacher  a  good  opportunity  for  testing  the  skill 

of  new  students. 

It  may  serve  as  a  first  problem  for  machine 

stitching.     The  short  raw  edges  afford  a  good 

opportunity  for  a  review  of  the  blanket  stitch 

and  the  buttonhole  stitch. 


Making  the  Holder 

1.  Cut  3  or  4  pieces  of  material  534"  by  5y2" 
for  each  holder. 

2.  Baste  or  pin  these  together  carefully. 

3.  Stitch  2  or  3  rows  evenly  all  around  the 
4  sides  about  y±"  apart.     Be  careful  to  make 
good  square  corners  and  to  have  a  perfect  ten- 
sion. 

4.  Finish  two  of  the  raw  edges  with  a  but- 
tonhole stitch. 


14  GAEMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

5.  Finish  the  other  two  edges  with  a  blanket 
stitch.  Use  coarse  soft  crochet  or  embroidery 
cotton.  The  stitches  may  be  %"  apart  and 
3/16"  deep. 

COVER 
Cut  a  piece  of  muslin  13"  long  and  6"  wide. 

Making  the  Cover 

1.  On   each   short   end,   crease   a   %"  hem 
firmly  and  stitch  it  by  machine. 

2.  Fold   the   holder   crosswise   through   the 
center    and    mark    this    center    well    with    a 
crease. 

3.  From  each  side  of  the  center,  measure 
over  5%"  and  mark  this  point  with  a  pin. 

4.  Unfold  the  holder  and  place  each  marked 
end  directly  over  the  line  which  marks  the  mid- 
dle of  the  holder.     The  hems  will  slightly  over- 
lap.    (See  Fig.  4  II.) 

5.  Cut  a  piece  of  tape  Vi>"  or  %"  wide  and 
27"  long  and  stitch  this  securely  to  one  corner  of 
the  holder.     If  tape  cannot  be  obtained  read- 
ily, it  may  be  made  out  of  strips  of  cloth.     The 
tape  may  be  made   of  double  material  or  a 
small  hem  may  be  made  on  each  side.     (Fig.  4 

m.) 

6.  Stitch  the  holder  together  with  a  plain 
seam  %"  below  each  cut  edge. 


HAND  AND  MACHINE  SEWING      15 

7.  Open  each  seam  by  pressing  it  between 
the  thumb  and  the  forefinger. 

8.  Turn  the  cover  inside  out.     Pull  out  each 
corner  with  a  pin.     Crease  the  seams  very  flat. 

9.  Press  the  cover  and  the  holder. 

10.  Make  in  the  end  of  the  tape  a  buttonhole 


FIG.  4. — METHOD  OF  CUTTING  HOLDER  AND  COVEB 

I,  Cover  cut;  II,  wrong  side  of  folded  cover;  III,  right  side  of 
folded  cover;  IV,  holder 


16  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

to  fit  the  button  which  is  sewed  on  the  band  of 
the  cooking  apron. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Cut  the  material. 

2.  Fold  the  hem. 

3.  Stitch  the  hem. 

4.  Fold  the  cover  to  make  a  square  with  the  flaps 
inside. 

5.  'Make  the  tape. 

6.  Sew  on  the  tape. 

7.  Stitch  the  raw  edge. 

8.  Open  the  seam. 

9.  Turn  inside  out. 

10.  Crease  and  press. 

11.  Make  a  buttonhole  in  the  end  of  the  tape. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  are  holders  used  for? 

2.  Why  do  we  make  covers  for  the  holders? 

3.  What  material  may  be  used  for  the  holders? 

4.  What  material  may  be  used  for  the  covers? 

5.  What  stitches  do  you  use  around  the  edges  of 
the  holders? 

6.  Name  some  other  places  where  these  stitches 
are  used? 

7.  What  seams  do  you  use  in  the  covers  ? 

8.  Enumerate  the  steps  you  have  taken  to  make 
the  covers. 


CHAPTEE  II 

GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION 

Before  beginning  to  make  any  kind  of  gar- 
ment it  is  necessary  to  analyze  it  and  consider : 

1.  The  required  measurements. 

2.  The  different  parts  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed. 

3.  Suitable  material  with  regard  to  (a)  wear- 
ing qualities,  (b)  advantage  of  cutting,    (c)  ex- 
penditure, (d)  ease  of  laundering,  (e)  ease  of 
repairing  or  making  over. 

4.  The  preparation  of  the  material  for  draft- 
ing and  cutting. 

5.  The  drafting  of  the  pattern. 

6.  The  laying  of  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

7.  The  cutting  out. 

8.  The  construction  of  the  garment. 

9.  The  trimming. 

10.  The  pressing. 

11.  The  cost. 

12.  The  comparison  of  the  finished  garment 
with  similar  ready-made  garments  as  to  quality 
of  material,  workmanship,  price,  fit,  and  general 
appearance. 

17 


18  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

CUTTING  AND  MAKING  or  GARMENTS 

General  Rule  for  the  Construction  of  Garments 

Under  garment  construction  is  included  the 
making  of  a  suitable  garment  for  an  individual. 

This  very  important  part  of  needlework  in- 
cludes the  study  and  analysis  of  the  garment  to 
be  made : 

1.  The  taking  of  measurements. 

2.  The  drafting  of  the  pattern. 

3.  The  cutting  of  the  garment  according  to 
the  pattern. 

4.  The  joining  of  the  different  parts. 

5.  The  fitting  and  necessary  alterations. 

6.  The  sewing  and  finishing  of  the  garment. 

7.  The  application  of  trimmings,  if  these  are 
used. 

8.  The  pressing. 

Taking  of  Measurements 

For  the  construction  of  any  garment,  no  mat- 
ter how  simple,  certain  definite  measurements 
are  necessary.  The  taking  of  measurements  is 
a  very  important  procedure,  because  the  fit  and 
the  elegance  of  the  garment  depend  wholly  upon 
the  accuracy  with  which  these  measurements 
are  taken.  For  loose,  flowing  garments,  com- 
paratively few  measurements  are  required. 
For  tight-fitting  garments,  more  measurements 


GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION 


19 


are  necessary,  because  of  the  great  accuracy 
with  which   each  part  must  be   adjusted.     A 


FIGS.  5  AND  6. — TAKING  MEASUREMENTS 

Waist     Measurements :       1,  neck    measure ;    9,    length    of 

Length     of     back ;     2,     width  sleeve. 

across  back;  3,  bust  measure;  Skirt      Measurements:       1, 

4,   underarm   seam;    5,   width  Waist  measure;   a,  hip  meas- 

across     chest;     6,     length     of  ure  taken  7"  below  the  waist 

front;    7,    waist   measure;    8,  line;    b,  front  length;   c,  side 

length;  d,  back  length. 


20  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

close-fitting  waist  always  requires  more  meas- 
urements than  a  skirt.  Measurements  for  a 
tight-fitting,  waist  should  always  be  taken  over 
a  corset  cover.  A  waist  is  often  ill-fitting,  and 
if  the  measurements  are  taken  over  it,  they  are 
apt  to  be  misleading.  The  measurements  neces- 
sary for  each  garment  will  be  given  in  each 
chapter,  but  the  general  principles  give  direc- 
tions as  to  what  measurements  should  be  taken. 


Fig.  7 

Difference  of  various  commercial  patterns  and  drafted  patterns 
A.  Drafted  pattern.         B.  Commercial  pattern. 

Drafting  and  Placing  of  Patterns 

The  student  is  shown  how  to  draft  patterns 


GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION          21 

for  herself  and  thus  be  relieved  from  the  ex- 
pense of  purchasing  commercial  patterns  for 
the  various  garments  hereinafter  described. 
The  pattern  of  many  of  the  garments  illustrated 
in  this  text  are  drafted  directly  on  the  cloth. 
This  saves  a  great  deal  of  time  and  paper.  The 
cost  of  the  commercial  patterns  used  for  the  gar- 
ments described  in  this  work,  figuring  each  at 
15  cents,  would  be  approximately  $2. 

If  the  pattern  is  drafted  on  paper,  cut  out  the 
pattern  very  carefully  on  the  traced  lines  and 
cut  just  as  many  parts  as  are  required  to  make 
the  cloth  garment.  Mark  each  piece  with  its 
full  name  on  the  right  side.  Cutting  all  of  the 
pieces  and  marking  them  on  the  right  side  will 
result  in  economical  use  of  cloth  and  aid  in 
avoiding  mistakes  which  are  likely  to  occur,  es- 
pecially if  the  material  has  a  nap  or  a  right  and 
a  wrong  side. 

The  material  must  be  unfolded  and  stretched 
evenly  on  a  large  table.  Fasten  the  material 
with  thumb  tacks,  keeping  the  warp  and  the 
woof  at  right  angles. 

If  the  material  is  not  even,  it  is  well  to  pull 
the  short  corner.  There  is  no  definite  rule  for 
placing  the  patterns  on  the  cloth.  Place  all  the 
large  pieces  first  and  as  economically  as  pos- 
sible. Place  the  smaller  pieces  next.  Be  care- 
ful to  keep  in  mind  the  right  and  the  wrong 


22  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

side,  the  up  and  down,  the  stripes,  the  plaids, 
etc.  The  largest  pieces  should  always  be  cut 
first.  They  should  be  placed  with  the  widest 
part  near  the  cut  end  of  the  cloth. 

If  a  two  or  three  piece  suit  is  required,  be 
sure  to  place  all  the  parts  of  the  pattern  on  the 
cloth  before  beginning  to  cut  them  out.  This 
may  save  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  inconveni- 
ence later  on.  The  parts  of  the  pattern  should 
be  placed  on  the  material  with  the  construction 
lines  running  in  the  same  direction  as  the  warp 
and  the  woof.  The  length  of  the.  garment  ordi- 
narily follows  the  length  of  the  selvage. 

Cutting  the  Material 

The  cutting  shears  of  6y2"  to  9"  should  'be 
well  sharpened.  Cut  with  an  even  long  stroke 
to  the  end  of  the  shears  to  avoid  notches  in  the 
cloth.  As  patterns  are  drafted  according  to 
the  measurements  taken,  there  will  be  no  allow- 
ance for  seams  or  fullness.  After  the  parts  of 
the  pattern  are  pinned  exactly  and  securely  to 
the  material,  trace  all  around  them  with  a 
tracing  wheel,  tailors'  chalk,  or  tailors'  basting 
thread.  Which  of  these  is  used  will  depend 
upon  the  material.  Then  cut  the  goods,  allow- 
ing for  seams,  hems,  and  fullness  according  to 
the  garment  and  the  cloth. 


GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION          23 

For  ordinary  seams  allow  %"  to  %";  for 
hems  allow  2"  or  3"  to  4"  according  to  the  gar- 
ment. If  the  garment  laps  in  the  front  or  in 
the  back,  care  must  be  taken  to  make  allowance 
for  this  lapping ;  otherwise  it  will  be  too  tight. 


Joining  of  the  Different  Parts 

Join  the  different  parts  of  the  garment  either 
with  pins  or  with  basting  thread.  Be  careful 
that  all  the  corresponding  parts  meet  accu- 
rately, and  also  that  the  connecting  points  meet 
accurately. 

Fitting 

When  all  the  parts  of  a  garment  are  pinned 
or  basted  together,  it  is  ready  for  fitting.  This 
should  be  done  in  order  to  discover  any  mis- 
takes which  may  have  been  made.  Mistakes  do 
not  always  occur  in  the  cutting,  but  they  often 
occur  through  careless  joining  of  the  different 
parts. 

In  fitting,  the  garment  is  ordinarily  tried  on 
with  the  wrong  side  out.  The  seam  projection 
on  the  wrong  side  makes  fitting  easier.  Per- 
sons who  have  one  side  different  from  the  other 
should  always  be  fitted  with  the  right  side  of 
the  garment  out.  Both  sides  of  the  garment 


24  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

must  then  be  adjusted.     But  for  a  person  regu- 
larly built,  only  one  side,  the  right  side,  is  fitted. 

Changes  Made  in  Fitting 

Waist  too  large:  If  the  waist  of  a  dress  or 
apron  is  too  large  in  the  front  or  back,  take  in 
the  surplus  in  the  underarm  seam.  If  it  is  too 
narrow,  let  out  the  underarm  seam. 

Front  and  back  of  the  waist  too  long :  If  the 
waist  is  too  long,  take  it  up  on  the  shoulder 
seam ;  if  it  is  too  short,  let  it  out  on  the  shoulder 
seam.  If  the  waist  is  too  high  and  narrow  at 
the  neck,  notch  it  carefully  all  around.  If  a 
high  neck  is  desired,  take  a  straight  piece  of 
cloth  and  place  this  around  the  neck  like  a  collar 
and  mark  it  with  pins  or  basting  thread  just 
below  this  line.  Then  notch  carefully  within 
1/16"  of  this  line.  If  the  neck  is  too  large,  a 
condition  which  should  be  guarded  against  as 
much  as  possible,  take  up  the  back  and  the 
shoulder  seams.  If  the  armseye  is  too  large, 
a  condition  which,  like  the  neck,  should  be  care- 
fully avoided,  take  in  the  shoulder  and  the  un- 
derarm seams.  If  the  armseye  is  too  small, 
notch  it  and  cut  it  out  carefully,  especially 
around  the  lower  curve  of  the  armseye. 

Skirts  can,  according  to  the  needs,  be  changed 
from  top  to  bottom.  Sleeves,  if  too  long,  are 
taken  in  at  both  the  top  and  the  bottom  in  order 


GARMENT  CONSTRUCTION          25 

to  keep  the  elbow  in  its  proper  relative  position. 
Many  other  mistakes  may  occur.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  mention  all  of  them.  A  little  prac- 
tice will  enable  any  student  not  only  to  see  mis- 
takes, but  also  to  correct  them. 

Alterations 

.After  the  fitting,  the  alterations  are  marked 
with  a  tracing  wheel,  basting  thread,  or  tailors' 
chalk.  The  seam  of  the  garment  is  then  opened 
and  placed  on  the  opposite  corresponding  side. 
This  side  is  then  also  marked.  Great  care  must 
be  taken  to  preserve  the  symmetry  of  the  gar- 
ment. It  is  advisable  to  fit  an  altered  garment 
a  second  time  before  the  seams  are  stitched  and 
finished,  to  make  sure  that  every  part  is  correct. 

Sewing 

No  definite  rule  can  be  given  for  the  sewing 
and  finishing  of  garments,  as  seams  and  finish- 
ings depend  on  the  type  of  the  garment  and  the 
material  used.  Regularity  of  both  seams  and 
stitches,  whether  done  by  hand  or  machine,  care- 
ful sewing  of  fastenings,  good  buttonholes,  a 
neat  and  clean  appearance,  are  essential  to  the 
construction  of  any  garment. 

Pressing 

All  pressing  should  be  done,  if  possible,  on 
the  wrong  side,  but  this  is  especially  desirable 


26  GARMENTS  FOB  GIRLS 

on  colored  cotton  cloth,  wool,  or  silk.  A  bottle 
with  a  sprinkler  top  or  a  bowl  of  water  and  a 
sponge  are  convenient  for  pressing  cotton  gar- 
ments. A  woolen  garment  should  be  pressed  on 
the  wrong  side,  or  if  it  must  be  pressed  on  the 
right  side,  a  heavy  piece  of  ticking  should  be 
put  over  the  material  to  prevent  it  from  be- 
coming glossy.  If  pressed  on  the  wrong  side, 
a  piece  of  cheesecloth  dipped  in  water  and 
wrung  out  well  should  be  used. 


CHAPTER  III 

SEWING  APRON 

A  sewing  apron  should  be  worn  during  the 
sewing  class.  It  not  only  protects  the  dress  but 
the  pockets  are  convenient  for  holding  the  neces- 
sary tools  and  materials  during  the  work.  One 
pocket  should  be  used  for  the  handkerchief 
only;  the  other  for  such  tools  and  materials  as 
may  be  used  during  the  work. 


FIG.  8. — SEWING  APEON 

27 


28  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Suitable  Material 

Materials  such  as  flaxon,  dimity,  lawn,  muslin, 
cambric,  percale,  chambray,  or  any  other  ma- 
terial may  be  used.  Material  27"  wide  works 
up  to  better  advantage  than  any  other  width. 


cs 

k 

m 


m 


to 


POCK£TS 


^ 


27"     

Fig.  9 

Required  Measurements 

The  waist  measure — the  band  may  be  2"  or 
4"  smaller  than  the  waist  measure,  since  the 
strings  are  added. 


SEWING  APRON  29 

The  length — this  should  be  taken  when  the 
person  is  standing.  Measure  the  length  from 
the  waist  to  the  finger  tips.  This  will  give  the 
length  needed  for  the  apron. 

Standard  Measurements 

By  standard  measurements  is  meant  those 
measurements  which  experience  has  proved  are 
used  for  the  average  person. 

Waist— 26". 

Length— 18". 

Required  Material 

To  make  this  apron  use  %  of  a  yard  of 
cross-barred  material  27"  wide. 
No.  90  white  thread  for  machine  stitch- 
ing. 

No.  9  "  between  "  needles  for  hand  sew- 
ing. 

Cutting 

1.  Measure  7"  from  the  selvage  on  the  width 
of  the  material  and  draw  a  thread.     (See  Fig. 
9.) 

2.  Cut  off  this  piece,  and  use  it  for  the  band 
and  the  strings.     Lay  it  aside  until  the  body  of 
the  apron  is  finished. 

Making 

1.  Take  the  body  of  the  apron,  which  is  a 


30  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

piece  27"  by  20",  and  on  the  width  (the  narrower 
side)  fold  a  hem  which,  when  finished,  is  %" 
deep. 

2.  Crease  this  well.     Pin  or  baste  it  down. 
In  loosely  woven  materials,  especially  in  cross- 
barred  dimity,  threads  pull  very  easily.     The 
pulling  of  a  thread  assures  an  even  hem. 

3.  Stitch  this  hem  by  machine,  close  to  the 
turned-in  edge. 

Pockets 

1.  From  each  end  of  the  hem  measure  8" 
along  the  selvage  and  8"  along  the  opposite  side. 
Draw  a  thread.     This  indicates  the  depth  of  the 
pocket. 

2.  Fold  this  over  on  the  apron  so  that  the 
hem  is  on  the  inside,  and  crease  the  fold  well. 

3.  Divide  this  into  two  or  three  equal  sec- 
tions.    Put  pins  at  these  dividing  points.     By 
means  of  the  dull-edged  scissors  indicate  the 
lines  which  are  to  be  stitched. 

4.  Stitch  the  dividing  line  by  machine.     On 
each  divided  line,  make  two  rows  of  stitching 
-/4"  apart.     Start  from  the  bottom  of  the  pocket. 

Sides  of  the  Apron 

1.  Baste  each  side  of  the  pocket  to  the  side 
of  the  apron.  Baste  with  fine  thread  and  very 
close  to  the  edge. 


SEWING  APRON  31 

2.  Baste  a  %"  hem  on  each  side  of  the  apron 
and  stitch  it  by  machine. 

Gathering  the  Apron  for  the  Band 

1.  Find  the  middle  of  the  apron  and  mark 
this  with  a  basting  thread  of  a  contrasting  color. 

2.  Make  2  rows  of  gathering  stitches  by  ma- 
chine 14"  apart.     To  gather  the  material  by 
machine,  loosen  either  the  top  or  the  lower  ten- 
sion and  adjust  the  machine  to  the  longest  pos- 
sible stitch.     The  thread  which  lies  the  straight- 
est  on  the  material  will  be  pulled  up  for  the 
gathers. 

Preparing  the  Band 

1.  Take  the  piece  of  the  apron  which  was  laid 
aside  and  cut  off  a  strip  3"  wide  for  the  band. 

2.  Make  a  %"  turn  on  all  four  edges  and 
crease  it  well.     If  possible,  press  it  with  a  flat- 
iron. 

3.  Fold  the  band  crosswise  and  find  the  cen- 
ter.    This  will  be  the  center  of  the  front.     Mark 
this  with   a   contrasting  thread.     Measure   1" 
from  each  side  of  the  center  front  and  mark 
this  also  with  a  contrasting  thread. 

Putting  the  Band  on  the  Apron 

1.  Pin  the  right  side  and  the  center  front  of 


32  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

the  band  to  the  wrong  side  and  the  center  front 
of  the  apron. 


FIG.  10. — DETAIL  OF  SEWING  BAND  ON  APRON 

2.  Pin  each  side  of  the  band  marked  with  the 
contrasting  threads  to  each  side  of  the  apron. 

3.  Draw  up  the  gathering  threads  of  the 
apron  to  fit  the  band. 

4.  Divide  the  fullness  so  that  there  is  very 
little  in  fr6nt. 

5.  Fasten  the  gathering  threads  by  twisting 
them  around  the  pins  at  each  side. 

6.  Baste  or  pin  the  apron  very  evenly  to  the 
band. 

7.  Stitch  the  apron  to  the  band  by  machine. 
Use  the  creased  line  of  the  band  as  a  stitching 
line. 


SEWING  APRON  33 

8.  Crease  the  seam  open  between  the  thumb 
and  forefinger  and  then  press  it  back  on  the 
band. 

9.  Next  turn  the  band  over  on  the  right  side 
of  the  apron  and  pin  it  so  that  it  covers  the  first 
stitching. 

10.  Pin  the  extending  portions  of  the  band 
together. 

11.  Do  not  stitch  it  until  the  strings  are  put 
on  the  band. 

Stitching  the  Strings 

1.  Take  the  piece  of  material  4"  wide  which 
was  left  from  the  band  and  on  each  one  of  the 
long  sides  make  a  %"  hem  and  stitch  it  by  ma- 
chine. 

2.  On  the  two  narrow  sides,  fold  a  %"  hem 
and  stitch  this  by  machine. 

3.  Cut  this  piece  crosswise  into  two  parts. 
These  are  for  the  strings. 

Putting  on  the  Strings 

1.  Make  two  pleats  in  both  unfinished  ends. 
Make  these  pleats  so  that  they  will  fit  exactly 
inside  the  band.     Slip  the  strings  into  the  open 
side  of  the  band. 

2.  Baste  the  strings  to  the  band  very  care- 


34  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

fully,  so  that  each  side  will  look  like  one  con- 
tinuous thread. 

3.  Stitch  the  band  to  the  apron  and  stitch 
the  strings  into  the  band.  This  can  all  be  done 
in  one  stitching.  Begin  at  the  right  side  of  the 
apron  near  the  end  of  the  gathering.  Stitch  all 
along  the  gathers  and  the  one  extending  end  of 
the  band.  Turn  the  corner  and  stitch  the  string 
to  the  band.  Stitch  this  up,  down,  and  up 
again,  so  that  there  will  be  three  rows  of  stitch- 
ing. Stitch  these  close  to  each  other.  Next 
turn  the  corner  and'  stitch  all  around  the  upper 
edge  of  the  band;  then  repeat  the  three  stitch- 
ing strips  where  the  other  string  joins  the  band. 
Finish  the  remaining  stitching  on  the  band. 
Tie  and  finish  the  machine  threads  carefully. 

The  seam  of  the  apron  may  be  finished  with  a 
feather,  a  chain,  or  any  other  fancy  stitch. 

Marking 

Mark  the  initial  with  an  outline  stitch  1" 
below  the  hem  and  in  the  center  of  one  of  the 
pockets. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Cut  the  material  27"  by  27". 

2.  Cut  off  a  strip  1"  wide  along  the  selvage. 


SEWING  APRON  35 

3.  Fold  and  make  the  hem  of  the  pocket. 

4.  Measure  the  depth  of  the  pocket. 

5.  Turn  over  the  piece  for  the  pocket. 

6.  Mark  the  divisions   of  the   pocket  and   stitch 
these  by  machine. 

7.  Fold  a/4"  hem  along  each  side.     Baste  and  stitch 
these  by  machine. 

8.  Stitch  2  rows  of  gathering  stitches  on  the  ma- 
chine. 

9.  Cut  the  band. 

10.  Prepare  the  band. 

11.  Sew  the  band  on  the  apron  with  the  first  stitch- 
ing. 

12.  Prepare  the  strings. 

13.  Baste  the  strings  on  the  band. 

14.  Stitch  the  band  on  the  strings  and  make  the 
last  stitching  all  around  the  band  and  the  apron. 

15.  Mark  the  initials  with  an  outline  stitch. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  materials  may  be  used  for  this  type  of 
sewing  apron  ? 

2.  What  are  aprons  used  for? 

3.  What  are  the  special  purposes  of  this  apron? 

4.  What  is  the  special  advantage  of  this  apron  ? 

5.  Is  it  economical  to  wear  an  apron? 

6.  How  many  different  types  of  aprons  can  you 
name  ? 

7.  What   different   materials   are   used   for   each 
type? 


36  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

8.  Name  some  aprons  and  the  suitable  material 
for  each. 

9.  How  many   different  seams   are  used  in  this 
apron  ? 

10.  State  two  different  ways  of  gathering. 

11.  Write  a  composition  on  the  apron,  telling  how 
you  made  it. 


CHAPTER  IV 

PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN 

Unbleached  or  bleached  muslin  (fruit  of  the 
loom,  daisy  cloth,  longcloth,  etc.),  outing  flannel, 
or  cotton  crepe  are  the  materials  most  com- 
monly used  for  nightgowns.  For  fine  night- 
gowns nainsook  may  be  used. 

A  plain  kimono  nightgown  is  chosen  for  the 
first  problem  because  it  is  very  simple  in  con- 
struction, very  practical,  and  one  of  the  most 
popular  garments  worn.  The  principles  for 
drafting  used  in  it  are  basic,  and  once  under- 
stood may  be  used  on  garments  for  a  baby,  a 
child,  or  an  adult. 

Required  Measurements 

1.  Entire  length — This  should  be  taken  from 
the  highest  point  of  the  shoulder  to  the  floor. 

2.  Bust — This  measure  should  be  taken  very 
loosely. 

3.  Front  waist  length — This  measure  should 
be  taken  from  the  neck  to  the  waistline. 

37 


38  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Standard  Measurements 

1.  Total  length  50". 

2.  Bust  39". 

3.  Length  of  front  16". 


FIG.  11. — KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN 

Hem  around  neck  turned  from  the  inside  toward  the  outside, 
then  turned  back  on  itself 

To  decide  on  the  length  of  any  garment,  take 
the  number  of  inches  the  garment  should  be 
from  the  floor  and  then  add  1"  for  shrinkage, 
2"  or  3"  for  the  hem,  and,  if  the  person  is  still 
growing,  add  2"  or  3"  more. 

Required  Material 

Twice  the  length  of  material  36"  wide 


PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN        39 

is  needed;  1%  yard  lace  (%  yard  for 
the  neck,  1  yard  for  the  sleeves) ;  No.  70 
white  cotton  for  machine  stitching ;  No. 
8  Sharp  needles;  fine  steel  pins;  em- 
broidery cotton  for  initials;  a  hard 
drawing  pencil;  one  eraser;  a  tracing 
wheel. 

Preparing  the  Material  Before  Drafting  the    . 
Pattern 

1.  See  that  the  ends  of  the  material  meet 
exactly  when  they  are  folded  together.     Fre- 
quently in  the  process  of  manufacturing  mate- 
rial it  is  pulled  out  of  shape  and  one  end  is 
longer  than  the  other.     In  this  case  take  hold 
of  the  short  corner  and  the  corner  that  is  diag- 
onally opposite  from  the  short  end.     Pull  on 
the  short  diagonal  until  the  ends  are  even. 

2.  Fold  the  material  crosswise  through  the 
middle  and  then  lengthwise. 

3.  Pin  the  four  selvages  together  carefully, 
putting  the  pins  at  right  angles  to  the  edge. 

Drafting  the  Pattern  (See  Fig.  12) 

After  the  material  is  folded  first  crosswise 
and  then  lengthwise,  mark  the  corners  A,  B,  C, 
D. 

AB  is  the  length  of  the  garment. 
AC  is  14  of  the  width  of  the  garment  including 
the  length  of  the  sleeve. 


40 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


AI    From  A  measure  3y2"  on  the  AC  line,  and 
locate  I. 


FIG.  12.— DRAFT  OF  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN 


PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN       41 

AJ  From  A  measure  3y2"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  J.  Connect  J  and  I  by  a  curved 
line.  This  line  indicates  the  back  of  the 
neck. 

AH  From  A  measure  4:l/z"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  H.  Connect  H  and  I  by  a  curved 
line.  This  line  indicates  the  front  of  the 
neck. 

AE  From  A  measure  16"  on  the  AB  line  and 
locate  E.  This  line  indicates  the  waistline. 

AF  From  A  measure  8"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  F.  This  line  indicates  the  bust 
line. 

AK  Measure  13"  on  the  AC  line,  and  locate 
K.  This  line  indicates  the  width  of  the 
bust  measure,  including  the  necessary  full- 
ness. 

KM  From  K  draw  a  line  16"  long  and  parallel 
to  CD,  and  locate  M.  This  line  indicates 
the  combined  length  of  the  sleeve  and  the 
underarm  seam. 

FN  From  F  draw  a  line  13"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  line  AC,  and  locate  N. 

CL  From  C  measure  8"  on  the  CD  line,  and 
locate  L.  This  line  indicates  the  width  of 
the  sleeves. 

LO  From  L  draw  a  line  parallel  to  AC  3V/' 
long,  and  locate  0.  This  line  indicates  the 
underarm  seam. 


42  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

NP  From  N  draw  a  line  lyj'  long  on  the  KM 
line,  and  locate  P. 

OP  Connect  OP  by  a  curved  line.  This  line 
is  the  underarm  curve. 

DR  From  D  on  the  DC  line  measure  3",  and 
locate  R.  This  is  measured  upward  on  the 
selvage  to  form  the  hem.  Place  the  yard- 
stick on  R  and  draw  a  straight  line  to  con- 
nect R  with  the  underarm  seam  P.  This 
line  will  form  the  side  seam  of  the  garment. 

DS     Measure  %"  on  the  DC  line,  and  locate  S. 

Draw  the  line  RS. 
Cut  away  the  corner  SD  so  as  to  have  the 

length  of  the  garment  the  same  from  NS  as  it 

is  from  F  to  B.     This  will  make  the  gown  hang 

evenly. 

Mark   on   the   AB   line   the   words   "center 

front." 

Cutting  Out  the  Material 

Do  not  remove  the  pins  from  the  selvage  but 

1.  Cut  out  the  side  seam  LOPR.     Use  long 
even  strokes  to  avoid  notches. 

2.  Cut  out  the  back  neck  JI. 

3.  Before  unfolding  the  garment,  run  the 
tracing  wheel  over  the  front  neck  line  HI. 

4.  Take  out  the  pins  and  unfold  the  garment 
once. 


PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN        43 

Making 

1.  Begin  by  pinning  the.  seams  together  at 
the  sleeve. 

2.  Lay  the  garment  full  length  on  the  table 
and  pin  the  side  seams  together  carefully.     Put 
the  pins  about  5"  apart  and  at  right  angles  to 
the  edge. 

3.  Side  seam  (French  seam) :     It  is  advis- 
able to  let  beginners  use  a  yardstick  and  with 
the  point  of  the  scissors  draw  a  line  y±"  parallel 
to  the  edge.     This  will  be  a  guide  in  stitching 
on  the  machine. 

4.  To  make  a  French  seam  (Fig.  13) : 

(a)  Place  the  two  wrong  sides  of  the 

garment  together  and  stitch  the 
first  stitching  on  the  right  side. 

(b)  Open  the  seam  and  press  it  flat 

with  the  thumb  and  the  finger 
nail. 


FIG.  13. — FRENCH  SEAM 

A,  First  stitching;  B,  seam  opened;  C,  wrong  side  of 
finished  seam 


44  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

(c)  Trim    the    seam    closely.     Leave 

1/16"  of  the  material. 

(d)  Turn  the  gown  wrong  side  out  and 

crease  the  seam  very  flat.  The 
stitching  must  be  at  the  very  top 
edge  of  the  seam. 

(e)  Hold  the  seam  together  by  putting 

a  few  pins  at  right  angles  to  the 
edge. 

(f)  Hold  it  up  to  the  light  to  be  sure 

that  the  first  seam  is  trimmed 
evenly  so  that  no  raw  edges,  will 
extend  beyond  the  stitching, 
(g)  Stitch  again  and  make  the  seam 
as  narrow  as  the  material  will 
allow.     It  should  never  be  more 
than  Vi"  wide. 
5.  Neck: 

(a)  Turn  a  J/s"  hem  around  the  neck 

from  the  inside  toward  the  out- 
side of  the  garment. 

(b)  Crease  this  well. 

(c)  Turn   it   back   upon   itself.     This 

will  leave  two  turned  in  edges. 

(d)  Baste  these  edges  together. 

(e)  Sew  the  lace  to  these  edges.    Be- 

gin the  sewing  at  the  center  of 
the  back.  Hold  the  lace  towards 
you.  Use  the  overhand  stitch. 


PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN       45 

The  lace  may  be  a  firm  linen, 
Cluny,  or  torchon  lace,  but  the 
best  lace  for  this  purpose  is  a 
narrow,  tightly  crocheted  edg- 
ing or  tatting.  Cotton  coarser 
than  No.  70  should  not  be  used, 
(f)  For  other  methods  of  sewing  on 
lace  see  Fig.  85. 

6.  Hem: 

(a)  Try  on  the  gown.    Adjust  it  care- 

fully at  the  shoulder,  front,  and 
neck. 

(b)  Have  another  student  take  a  yard- 

stick and  with  one  end  on  the 
floor  (the  end  showing  1")  see 
if  the  length  is  even.  If  the 
length  is  not  even  a  pin  should 
be  put  at  the  shortest  point  and 
one  corresponding  to  that  length 
at  the  front,  another  at  the  side 
and  one  at  the  back. 

(c)  Take    off   the   gown   and   trim   it 

evenly  along  the  bottom,  using 
the  pins  as  a  guide. 

(d)  For  the  bottom  hem  crease  and 

press  a  %"  turn  first.  Then  turn 
a  11/2"  or  2"  hem. 

7.  Marking:     Mark  the  initials  with  a  pen- 
cil in  the  center  of  the  front  and  V  from  the 


46  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

neck.  Outline  these  with  a  chain  or  outline 
stitch.  The  first  letter  of  either  name  may  be 
traced  on  the  center  front  of  the  gown  or  the 
initial  may  be  purchased  ready  to  be  stamped 
on  the  gown. 

8.  Pressing:     A  bowl  with  a  little  water  and 
a  sponge  should  be  near  the  ironing  board.     A 
bottle  with  a  sprinkler  top  is  convenient  for 
pressing.     Moisten  the  garment  and  press  it. 
Be  careful  to  see  that  the  iron  follows  the  warp 
and    the    woof    threads.     By    following    these 
wrinkles  will  be  avoided.     Fold  according  to 
Fig.  11. 

9.  Compute  the  cost:  the  time. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL      -. 

1.  Fold  the  material  for  drafting  the  pattern. 

2.  Draft  the  pattern. 

3.  Cut  out  the  nightgown. 

4.  Make  the  side  seams. 

5.  Fold  the  hem  around  the  neck. 

6.  Baste  the  hem  around  the  neck. 

7.  Try  on  the  nightgown. 

8.  Adjust  the  length  and  decide  on  the  width  of 
the  hem. 

9.  Turn  the  hem. 

10.  Stitch  the  hem. 

11.  Sew  the  lace  around  the  neck  and  sleeves. 

12.  Outline  the  initial. 


PLAIN  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN        47 

13.  Press  and  fold  the  nightgown. 

14.  Compute  the  cost. 

15.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  materials  are  suitable  for  nightgowns? 

2.  What  are  the  essential  points  to  be  considered 
in  selecting  the  material? 

3.  What  are  the  essential  points  to  be  considered 
in  selecting  the  trimming? 

4.  What  points  are  to  be  considered  with  regard 
to  hygiene? 

5.  What   seams   have  been  used   in   making  the 
nightgown  ? 


CHAPTER  V 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS 

An  apron  is  worn  to  protect  the  dress.     The 

material  must  be 
selected  to  accord 
with  the  use  of  the 
apron. 

Tea  and  after- 
noon aprons  may 
be  made  of 
dainty,  soft  ma- 
terials such  as 
dimity,  muslin, 
dotted  swiss, 

or     other 
material. 


crepe, 
soft 


FIG.   14. — PARTLY  FITTED  KIMONO 

APRON 

A,  Apron  too  large  over  shoul- 
ders; B,  shoulder  fitted  by  means 
of  tucks. 

48 


Butchers'  aprons 
may  be  made  of 
a  white  coarse 
linen,  carpenters' 
aprons  of  ticking 
or  twilled  jean, 
kitchen  aprons  of 
calico,  percale,  or 
gingham,  hospi- 
tal aprons  of 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS      49 

strong  unbleached  muslin,  bleached  muslin,  or 
twilled  jean,  nurses'  aprons  of  twilled  jean, 
strong  white  muslin,  or  costume  cloth. 


FIG.  15. — KJMONO  APRON 
( Front  view ) 


FIG.  16. — KIMONO  APRON 
(Back  view) 


Aprons  which  cover  the  whole  dress  often  re- 
place the  house  dress.  They  are  frequently 
made  on  the  kimono  or  princess  style  and  may 
be  made  of  chambray,  seersucker,  calico,  ging- 
ham, or  percale.  (Figs.  14,  15,  16.) 


50 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


Standard  Measurements 

Entire  length  of  apron  52",  length  of  front 
from  neck  to  waist  16",  bust  measure,  39". 

Required  Material 

Two  lengths  of  percale  36"  wide,  No. 
70  white  thread  for  the  machine  stitch- 
ing, No.  50  white  thread  for  button- 
holes, No.  6  "between"  needles  for  the 
buttonholes,  4  buttons  VL>"  in  diameter. 

A,  ..._C 


FIG.  17 


KIMONO  APEON  WITH  TUCKS      51 

Parts  of  the  Apron  (See  Fig.  17) 

1.  Body  of  the  apron. 

2.  Pocket  5"  by  6"  made  out  of  piece  from 
the  neck. 

3.  Belt  19"  by  4".     The  belt  lining  must  be 
pieced. 

4.  Cuff  3"  by  16"  at  center  and  2"  near  the 
underarm  seam. 

5.  6,  7,  8.  The  remainder  of  the  cloth  is  cut 
in  1"  strips  of  which  17"  are  used  for  placket 
facing,  2  pieces  of  8"  each  for  the  back  and  the 
front  of  the  neck,  and  2  pieces  of  11"  each  for 
the  sides  of  the  neck. 

Preparing  the  Material  for  Drafting 

1.  Fold    the    material    crosswise    and    then 
lengthwise. 

2.  Pin  the  selvages  together  as  in  the  night- 
gown. 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

Let  A  be  the  upper  corner  of  the  folded  edge 

and  B  the  lower  corner. 

Let  C  be  the  upper  corner  of  the  selvage 

edge  and  D  the  lower  corner. 

Mark  the  fold  AB  "center  front." 
AE     On  the  fold  AB  measure  16",  and  locate  E. 
EX    Draw  EX  parallel  to  AC. 


52 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

M  13"  from  E, 


EM    On  the  line  EX  locate 
EMX  is  the  waistline. 


B""  0 

FIG.  18. — DRAFT  OF  KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS      53 

AF    On  the  line  AB  measure  8"  from  A,  and 

locate  F. 
FN     At  F  draw  a  line  parallel  to  EM.     On  this 

line  locate  N  13"  from  F.     The  line  FN  is 

the  bust  line. 
AK     On  the  line  AC  measure  13",  and  locate 

K.     The  line  AK  indicates  the  width  of  the 

garment  including  the  tucks. 
KM     From  K  draw  a  line  parallel  to  CD  to 

meet  EX  at  M. 
CL     On  the  line  CD  measure  8"  from  C,  and 

locate  L.     CL  indicates  the  width  of  the 

sleeve. 
NP     On  the  line  KM  measure  I1//'  down  from 

N,  and  locate  P.     Join  0  and  P  by  a  curved 

line. 
LO     From  L  draw  a  line  31//'  long  parallel  to 

AC,  and  locate  0.     LOP  indicates  the  un- 
derarm seam. 
DR     On  the  line  CD  measure  3"  from  D,  and 

locate  R. 
PR    Join  P  and  R. 

The  lines  LOPR  indicate  the  underarm  and 

the  side  seams  of  the  garment. 
AI     On  the  line  AC  measure  3"  from  A,  and 

locate  I. 

AJ     On  the  line  AB  measure  3",  and  locate  J. 
AH     On  the  line  AB  measure  4",  and  locate  H. 


54  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

IZ  At  I  draw  a  line  3"  long  and  parallel  to 
AB,  and  locate  Z. 

JZ    Join  J  to  Z. 

IT    Extend  IZ  V  further,  and  locate  T. 

HT  Join  H  to  T.  HTZI  indicates  the  neck 
line. 

IY  On  the  line  AC  measure  2"  from  I,  and  lo- 
cate Y. 

YW     On  the  line  AC  locate  W  2"  from  Y. 
At  Y  draw  a  line  6"  long  parallel  to  AC. 
At  W  draw  a  line  6"  long  parallel  to  AC. 
These  lines  will  indicate  the  places  for  the 
tucks. 

JOS.  On  the  line  CD  measure  y2"  from  D,  and 
locate  S.  Join  S  and  the  line  BD  by  a 
curved  line.  This  line  indicates  the  extra 
material  that  needs  to  be  cut  away  so  that 
the  seam  ND  is  not  longer  than  the  front 
FB. 

Tracing  and  Cutting  Out 

1.  Trace  the  lines  marked  for  the  tucks  very 
plainly  so  that  they  may  be  seen  through  the 
four  folds. 

2.  Cut  out  the  neck. 

3.  Cut  out  the  front  neck  as  traced,  that  is, 
1"  deeper  than  the  back. 

4.  Cut  out  the  side  seam  and  the  underarm 
of  the  apron. 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS   55 

5.  Unfold  the  apron  until  there  are  only  two 
thicknesses. 

6.  Cut  the  belt,  the  cuffs,  the  neck  and  the 
placket  finishing.     Care  must  be  taken  to  cut 
these  small  pieces  as  they  are  shown  in  the  Fig- 
ure.    The  pieces  under  the  arms  will  be  large 
enough  to  furnish  all  the  material  for  the  fin- 
ishings if  they  are  cut  carefully. 

.  The  pocket  which  is  5"  by  6"  is  made  from 
the  piece  cut  away  at  the  neck. 

The  belt  which  is  19"  by  4"  and  the  lining 
(which  must  be  pieced)  are  made  from  the 
pieces  under  the  arm. 

The  cuffs,  which  are  3"  by  16",  are  made  from 
pieces  under  the  other  arm. 

The  pieces  of  cloth  for  bands,  etc.,  are  cut 
from  what  remains.  Each  strip  is  1"  wide. 
(See  Fig.  17,  Nos.  5,  6,  7,  8.) 

7.  Each  piece   should  be  marked  with  the 
student's  full  name. 

Construction 

1.  Neck: 

(a)  Make  a  %"  turn  from  the  left  to 

the  right  side  all  around  the 
neck,  notching  the  corners  to  the 
depth  of  the  turn. 

(b)  Take  the  strips  of  1"  material  that 

were    cut.     Make    a    y8"    turn 


56 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


Yic,.  10.— DETAIL  OF  NECK  FINISH  FOR  APRON 
A,  Fold  of  material  before  binding  is  put  on;  B,  C,  different 
ways  of  mitt'ring  corners;  D,  finished  mitered  corner;  E,  un- 
even basting;    F,  side  basting. 

along  both  edges  on  the  wrong 
side.  After  the  turns  are  folded 
each  strip  will  be  %"  wide. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  have  them 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS      57 

long  enough,  since  some  length 
will  be  taken  up  in  the  mitering 
of  the  corners.  If  a  hot  iron 
is  convenient  press  all  of  the 
strips. 

(c)  Baste  the  back  and  the  front;  then 

baste  the  side  strips  to  the 
apron,  being  careful  to  make 
sure  that  the  strips  and  the  mi- 
ters match  exactly.  The  warp 
and  woof  threads  must  meet  at 
the  corners. 

(d)  Stitch   the   facing  very   close   to 

each  turn  and  finish  the  neck  be- 
fore cutting  the  placket  or  the 
opening  in  the  back. 

2.  Underarm:     Make     French     seams     or 
French  fell.     They   should  not  be  more  than 
%"  wide  when  finished. 

3.  Placket: 

(a)  Cut  from  the  neck  down  through 

the  center  of  the  back  16". 

(b)  Hem  the  right  or  the  top  side  with 

a  %"  hem. 

(c)  Face  the  left  or  the  under   side 

with  a  strip  17"  by  1". 

(d)  Lock  the  corners  of  the  placket  at 

the  neck. 

4.  Tucks:     Crease  the  lines  at  Y  and  W. 


58  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Pin  the  tucks  and  stitch  them  approximately 
1/2"  wide.  They  are  iy2"  apart.  Stitch  down 
6"  in  the  front  and  5"  in  the  back.  Tie  the 
threads  on  the  wrong  side.  These  tucks  may 
vary  in  width.  They  may  be  made  wider  or 
narrower  according  to  the  size  of  the  girl. 
(See  Fig.  14.)  One  side  is  adjusted  by  means 
of  tucks.  The  other  side  shown  is  too  loose 
and  consequently  does  not  fit. 

5.  Hem:     Use  the  gauge.     Turn  and  pin  a 
2"  or  3"  hem.     Turn  under  14".     Be  careful  to 
have   a  very  even  hem.     Lay  in   very   small 
pleats  any  surplus  fullness.    If  the  pleats  are 
large  they  will  form  points  or  uneven  places  in 
the  hem. 

6.  Pocket :     The  pocket  is  the  piece  cut  from 
the  neck  piece.     Face  the  top  with  a  piece  sim- 
ilar to  the  neck  finish.     Fold  it  lengthwise  in 
halves  and  cut  iy2"  up  from  the  bottom  diag- 
onally to  a  point  on  both  sides.     Turn  the  edges 
under  about  14".     Place  it  6"  down  from  the 
waistline  and  1"  from  the  center  front.     Baste 
or  pin  it  in  place.     Stitch  it  to  the  apron.     Be- 
gin at  a  point  %"  down  from  the  top  at  one 
edge;  stitch  diagonally  across  to  a  point  %" 
from  the  side  of  the  pocket ;  then   stitch  all 
around,  finishing  the  other  corner  in  the  same 
way.     This  is  done  to  strengthen  the  corners 


KIMONO  APRON  WITH  TUCKS   59 

and  to  prevent  the  pocket  from  tearing  easily 
when  the  hand  is  put  into  it. 
7.  Belt :     See  page  97. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Fold  the  material  for  drafting  the  pattern 

2.  Draft  the  pattern. 

3.  Cut  out  the  apron. 

4.  Stitch  the  belt. 

5.  Cut  the  pieces  for  the  finish  of  the  neck,  placket, 
pocket  and  sleeve. 

6.  Finish  the  neck. 

7.  Make  the  side  seams. 

8.  Cut  and  finish  the  placket. 

9.  Try  on  the  apron. 

10.  Decide  on  the  size  of  the  tucks  at  the  shoulder. 

11.  Pin  the  belt  to  the  waistline. 

12.  Decide   on  the  size   of   the   hem   and   turn   it 
around  the  bottom. 

13.  Stitch  the  hem  around  the  bottom. 

14.  Stitch  the  pocket  to  the  apron. 

15.  Finish  the  sleeves. 

16.  Make  the  buttonholes  and  sew  on  the  buttons. 

17.  Mark  the  apron  with  the  initial. 

18.  Press  the  apron. 

19.  Fold  the  apron. 

20.  Compute  the  cost. 

21.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  In  what  way  does  the  pattern  for  the  apron 
differ  from  that  of  the  nightgown  ? 


60  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  What  materials  may  be  used  for  this  type  of 
apron  ? 

3.  What   should   be   considered  in   selecting  ma- 
terials for  aprons? 

4.  What  seams  were  used  in  making  this  apron? 

5.  What  finishing  did  you  use? 

6.  What  precaution  did  you  take  in  sewing  the 
pocket  to  the  apron? 

7.  What  is  characteristic  of  a  good  buttonhole? 

8.  How  were  the  buttons  sewed  on? 

9.  Of  what  different  materials  are  buttons  made? 


CHAPTER  VI 

KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE 

This  garment,  with  the  exception  of  the  yoke, 
which  is  made  of  pink  chambray,  is  made  of  un- 
bleached muslin.  The  material  is  folded  and 


Fio.  20 — KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE 

the  pattern  drafted  and  cut  in  exactly  the  same 
way  as  the  kimono  apron  and  nightgown.  The 
measurements  also  are  the  same. 

61 


62 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


Parts  of  the  nightgown :     Body,  yoke,  cuffs. 
Required  Material 

Two  lengths  of  36"  wide  material,  16" 


FIG.  21. — DRAFT  OF  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE 


KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE     63 

of  28"  wide  pink  chambray  (be  sure  the 
color  is  fast),  pink  embroidery  cotton, 
basting  thread,  No.  70  white  stitching 
thread,  needles,  pins,  pencil,  eraser, 
and  tracing  wheel  as  used  for  other 
garments. 

Preparing  the  Material  and  Drafting  the  Pat- 
tern 

Fold  the  material  and  draft  the  pattern  just 
as  in  the  first  nightgown;  3"  or  3%"  may  be 
cut  out  for  the  width  of  the  neck.  (See  Fig. 
21  and  Fig.  22.) 

Cutting  Out  the  Garment 

1.  Cut  the  side  seam. 

2.  Trace  the  neck  line  but  do  not  cut  until 
the  yoke  is  basted  on. 

Drafting  of  Yoke  (See  Fig.  22) 


FIG.  22. — DRAFT  OF  YOKE  FOB  KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN 


64  GARMENTS  FOB  GIRLS 

Cutting  Out  and  Preparing  the  Yoke 

1.  Cut  16"  of  pink  chambray  along  the  sel- 
vage. 

2.  Cut  this  piece  through  the  middle  length- 
wise. 

3.  Take  one  of  these  pieces  and  fold  it  through 
the  center  lengthwise,  then  crease  the  fold  care- 
fully. 

4.  Fold  it  crosswise  through  the  center  and 
crease  this  carefully.     This  will  form  a  square. 

Call  the  corner  which  has  no  selvage  A. 

Letter  the  lower  folded  corner  B,  and  the 

selvage  corners  C  and  D. 
AJ    On  the  side  AB  locate  J  3"  in  from  A. 
AI    On  the  side  AC  locate  I  3"  in  from  A. 
JT    Draw  a  line  3"  long  and  parallel  to  AC, 

and  locate  T. 
IT     Draw  IT  parallel  to  CD  so  as  to  form  a 

square  in  the  corner  of  the  goods. 
AT     Draw  a  diagonal  lino  from  A  to  T. 
UT     On  the  diagonal  line  AT  measure  V  from 

T,  and  locate  the  point  U. 

Draw  the  curved  line  connecting  I,  U,  and  J. 

This  forms  the  neck  line. 

Measure  3y2"  from  the  curved  line  toward 

the  open  edges  of  the  square,  and  locate  Q. 

Put  dots  at  intervals  of  about  1".     These 

dots  will  form  a  dotted  line  the  curve  of 

which  runs  parallel  to  the  neck  line  JUT. 


KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE     65 

Crease  and  press  firmly  AI  and  AJ.  These 
creased  lines  will  indicate  the  middle  of  the 
front  and  the  middle  of  the  back  and  each 
shoulder  line. 

Cutting  Out 

1.  Cut  through  the  four  thicknesses  around 
the  upper  and  the  lower  3y2"  curved  line. 

2.  Pin  together  firmly. 

3.  Cut  a  3"  gage. 

Preparing  the  Yoke 

1.  Unfold  the  yoke. 

2.  Turn  under  14 "  of  these  cut  edges  around 
the  lower  part  of  the  yoke  and  around  the  neck. 
Crease  each  carefully. 

3.  Press  the  edges  down  with  a  hot  iron. 

Fitting  Yoke  to  Nightgown 

1.  Mark  the  center  of  the  front  and  the  cen- 
ter of  the  back.  Spread  on  a  table  the  night- 
gown on  which  the  neck  has  been  drafted.  Use 
a  contrasting  thread  along  the  folds. 

2.  Fit  the  yoke  on  the  gown  so  that  the  neck 
curves  match. 

3.  Pin  the  yoke  smoothly  and  securely  to  the 
nightgown.     Take  care  that  the  warp  and  the 
woof  threads  of  both  the  yoke  and  the  gown  run 
in  the  same  direction. 


66  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

4.  After  the  yoke  is  pinned,  baste  all  around 
it  with  an  uneven  side  basting  stitch. 

5.  Baste  a  second  time  with  small  firm  bast- 
ing stitches  %"  from  the  lower  edge. 

6.  Cut  out  the  neck  of  the  garment  y±"  above 
the  neck  line  of  the  yoke. 

7.  Crease  down  y^"  around  the  curve  of  the 
neck  of  the  gown  to  meet  the  yoke. 

8.  Baste  the  two  edges  together.     Be  care- 
ful to  see  that  the  white  does  not  extend  over 
the  pink. 

9.  Stitch  on  the  right  side  close  to  the  upper 
edge,  then  stitch  down  the  lower  part  of  the 
yoke. 

10.  Tie  the  stitching  threads  on  the  wrong 
side  and  remove  the  basting  threads  by  snip- 
ping them  at  short  distances  rather  than  fay 
pulling  them  all  at  once. 

Cuffs 

1.  Take  the  piece  left  from  the  yoke  and  fold 
it  once  lengthwise.     Then  fold  it  again  length- 
wise. 

2.  Cut   this   piece    in   four   pieces    length- 
wise. 

3.  Place  one  cut  strip  lengthwise  along  the 
selvage   of  the  sleeve   so  that  the  cuff  when 
turned  back  will  come  on  the  right  side  of  the 
gown. 


KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE     67 

4.  Pin  the  cuff  and  the  sleeve  together,  with 
the  pins  at  right  angles. 

5.  Stitch  the  cuff  on  by  machine.     Stitch  y^" 
from  the  edge. 

6.  Open  the  seam.     Press  it  flat  between  the 
thumb  and  finger-nail.     Then  turn  the  cuff  over 
on  the  right  side  of  the  gown. 

7.  Turn  the  raw  edge  under  14".     Crease  it 
carefully. 

8.  Baste  it  down  evenly  and  smoothly. 

9.  Stitch  close  to  the  upper  and  the  lower 
edge  of  the  cuff. 

Side  Seam— Flat  Fell 

1.  Turn  the  garment  wrong  side  out  and  be- 
gin by  pinning  the  ends  of  the  sleeve  evenly 
and  securely. 


FIG.  23.— FLAT  FELL 


2.  Then  lay  the  garment  on  the  table  and  pin 
the  side  seams  together  evenly. 


68  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

3.  Stitch  about  %"  from  the  cut  edge. 

4.  Press  the  seam  open  with  the  thumb  and 
finger  nail. 

5.  From  the  stitching  line  turn  a  fold  less 
than  1/4"  and  crease  this  carefully.     If  a  hot 
iron  is  convenient  press  the  crease. 

6.  Unfold  the  seam  and  cut  away  the  ma- 
terial from  the  front  or  lower  seam,  leaving 
only  %"  of  the  material  extending  above  the 
stitching. 

7.  Take  the  back  or  upper  part  of  the  seam 
and  folding  this  over,  trim  off  all  surplus  ma- 
terial.    Only  enough  should  be  left  to  allow  for 
a  good  seam. 

8.  Baste  the  seam  down  with  small  stitches. 

9.  Stitch  close  to  the  edge  of  the  seam. 

Hem 

Try  on  the  garment. 

Finish  the  bottom  just  as  you  did  the  kimono 
nightgown. 

Marking 

Work  all  around  the  outline  of  the  initials 
with  a  chain  or  an  outline  stitch. 

The  center  of  the  letter  may  be  filled  with 
French  knots. 

Trimming 
A  few  scrolls  may  be  drawn  around  the  initial 


KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  YOKE     69 

with  a  pencil,  and  these  scrolls  may  be  out- 
lined or  featherstitched. 

Compute  the  cost:  the  time. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Measure  and  fold  the  material  for  the  night- 
gown. 

2.  Draft  the  pattern  for  the  nightgown. 

3.  Cut  out  the  garment  except  the  neck. 

4.  Cut  the  material  for  the  yoke. 

5.  Draft  the  yoke. 

6.  Turn  under  and  press  the  edges  of  the  yoke. 

7.  Baste  the  yoke  to  the  garment. 

8.  Stitch  the  yoke  to  the  garment. 

9.  Cut  the  cuffs. 

10.  Stitch  the  cuffs  to  the  gown. 

11.  Make  side  seams. 

12.  Try  on  the  garment. 

13.  Turn  a  hem  at  the  bottom. 

14.  Stitch  the  hem. 

15.  Mark  and  embroider  the  initials. 

16.  Press. 

17.  Compute  cost. 

18.  Compare  with  ready-made  garment. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  materials  were  used  in  the  nightgown? 

2.  Which  is  the  stronger  muslin,  the  bleached  or 
the  unbleached? 


70  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

3.  What  are  the  characteristics  of  a  good  muslin? 

4.  Will  the  pink  chambray  fade? 

5.  What  shall  we  do  to  prevent  the  colors  from 
running   in    washing    and    thus    spoiling    the    other 
clothes  ? 

6.  How  shall  we  set  colors? 

7.  Is  the  pink  chambray  dyed  in  the  piece  or  in 
the  threads? 

8.  How  do  you  recognize  this? 

9.  AVhich  is  the  better  and  why? 

10.  In  what  way  did  this  nightgown  differ  from 
the  first  one? 

11.  What  was  repeated  and  what  was  new  ? 

12.  After   making   this   nightgown,    what    changes 
would  you  make  if  you  made  a  gown  for  your  little 
sister  ? 

13.  What  would  you  do  to  make  the  second  one  in 
less  time  and  probably  make  it  better? 

14.  Could    you    make    a    gown    independently    at 
home? 

15.  Could  you  make  a  kimono  wrapper  after  this 
nightgown  pattern? 

16.  What  changes  would  you  make? 


CHAPTER  VII 

KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  TUCKS  AND  HAND- 
MADE TRIMMING 

This  nightgown  is  made  according  to  the 
same  measurements  as  the  pattern  just  used. 
Instead  of  two  tucks  on  each  side  of  the  shoul- 
ders as  in  the  apron  we  have  five,  six  or  seven 


'J- 


Fin.  24. — KTMONO  NIGHTGOWN 
Tucks  and  hand-made  trimming  may  be  used  to  advantage 

tucks.  These  tucks  should  be  made  with  great 
accuracy.  The  hand-made  trimming  as  shown 
in  Figs.  25  and  26  can  be  made  at  a  cost  of  not 
more  than  2  or  3  cents.  This  will  show  the 

71 


72  GARMENTS  FOB  GIRLS 

student  how  an  inexpensive  trimming  is  made. 
It  will  demand  accuracy  in  measuring,  es- 
pecially in  the  use  of  the  %"  or  %"  according 
to  the  width  of  the  scallops.  The  work  on  this 


FIG.  25. — HAND- MADE  SCALLOPS  FOR  NIGHTGOWN 

In  this  garment  the  scallops  are  made  before  the  bias  piece  is 

stitched  on 

garment  should  reveal  a  higher  degree  of  work- 
manship than  that  on  the  preceding  garment. 
It  should  show  the  student's  progress  in  sewing. 
The  material  best  suited  is  muslin,  or  long 
cloth,  or,  for  finer  garments,  nainsook. 

Required  Materials 

Twice  the  length  of  the  garment  in  ma- 
terial 36"  wide,  No.  60  white  thread  for 
machine  stitching,  No.  40  crochet  cotton 
for  feather  stitching,  No.  7  "  between " 
needles  for  featherstitching,  1% 
yards  of  fine  bias  lawn  2"  wide  for  the 
neck  and  sleeve  trimming,  No.  90  or  100 
thread  for  making  the  scallops,  No.  9 


NIGHTGOWN  WITH  TUCKS          73 

or  10  needle  for  making  the  scallops,  a 
table  cushion  and  a  coarse  needle  to 
mark  the  scallops  for  the  trimming. 


FIG.  26. — DETAIL  OF  HAND-MADE  TRIMMING  FOR  NIGHTGOWN 

Here  the  scallops  are  made  after  the  bias  piece  is  stitched  to 

the  garment 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

Draft  the  pattern  just  as  you  did  for  the 
apron  with  the  tucks — with  one  exception  as 
shown  in  Fig.  18.  Draw  lines  for  the  extra 
tucks  between  1  and  Y,  between  Y  and  W,  and 
beside  W.  These  lines  should  be  parallel  to  the 
tucks  at  I,  Y  and  W.  They  should  be  6"  long 
in  front  and  5"  long  in  the  back. 

Tracing  and  Cutting  Out 

The  same  precaution  must  be  observed  here 
as  was  observed  for  cutting  out  the  neck  of  the 
apron.  Trace  distinctly  with  a  tracing  wheel 
on  the  four  layers  before  the  garment  is  un- 
folded. 


74  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Construction 

The  tucks  should  be  made  first. 


FIG.  27. — KIMONO  NIGHTGOWN  WITH  HAND-MADE  TRIMMING 


NIGHTGOWN  WITH  TUCKS         75 

Side  Seams 

These  can  be  finished  with  a  French  seam  or 
with  a  flat  fell  seam. 

Preparing  the  Trimming  for  the  Neck  and  the 
Sleeves 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  sheer,  fine  lawn  on  the  true 
bias  and  then  cut  off  strips  2"  wide  and  1% 
yards    long.     This   will   be    sufficient    for    the 
sleeves  and  the  neck. 

2.  Put  the  cut  edges  together  and  fold  the 
strips  through  the  center.     Crease  these  well 
or  press  them  with  a  hot  iron. 

3.  Put  this  folded  strip  on  the  weighted  table 
cushion  and  lay  the  tapeline  on  the  strip  %" 
from  the  edge. 

4.  Take    a   very   coarse    needle    and    prick 
through   the   material   every    %"   or   1/2"   ac~ 
cording  to  the  width  you  desire  the  scallops 
to  be. 

5.  When  the  entire  length  is  marked,  thread 
a  fine  needle  with  No.  90  or  100  thread.     At 
each  pricked  point  make  two  overhand  stitches 
over  the  folded  edge.     Draw  the  thread  very 
firmly  to  form  the  scallop. 

6.  Put  the  needle  between  the  two  layers  of 
the  material  to  the  prick.     Pull  out  the  needle 
and  repeat  the  overhand  stitch. 


76  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

Sewing  Trimming  to  the  Garment 

When  the  scallops  are  finished,  turn  under  the 
edge  of  the  neck  Vs" ;  turn  in  an  even  line.  Turn 
an  edge  of  the  same  width  on  the  sleeve. 

1.  Take  the  scallops,  start  at  the  right  side 
center  of  the  back     Let  the  trimming  extend  a 
little  beyond  the  nightgown  so  as  to  cover  the 
turn  of  the  material  on  the  wrong  side. 

2.  Baste  the  scallops  on  the  neck  and  sleeves. 

3.  Stitch  the  turned  edge  of  the  neck  and  the 
sleeves  closely  to  the  trimming. 

4.  On  the  wrong  side  of  the  garment  turn  un- 
der the  rough  edge  of  the  scallops  to  make  a 
1/4"  hem.     Use  a  gauge  so  as  to  be  sure  that  the 
strip  is  the  same  in  width  throughout. 

5.  Crease  this  turn  well.     Cut  away  any  sur- 
plus material  under  the  turn.     Baste  this  down 
so  as  to  make  a  hem  or  fell  seam. 

6.  Stitch  by  machine  close  to  the  turned 
edge.     A  finish  of  featherstitching  on  the  right 
side   is   preferable.     Featherstitch   the    tucks. 
Adjust  the  length. 

Hem 

Put  in  the  hem  as  in  the  previous  garments. 

Marking 
Outline  or  embroider  the  initials 


NIGHTGOWN  WITH  TUCKS         77 

Pressing 

Press  the  featherstitching  and  the  initials  on 
the  wrong  side.  Press  the  rest  of  the  garment 
very  carefully  on  the  right  side.  The  pressing 
of  the  embroidery  on  the  wrong  side  will  make 
it  stand  out  in  relief. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  material  has  been  used  in  the  nightgown? 

2.  What  material  has  been  used  to  make  the  trim- 
ming? 

3.  Explain  how  the  trimming  has  been  made. 

4.  What  is  the  difference  between  the  tucks  made 
in  the  nightgown  and  those  made  in  the  apron  ? 

5.  What  stitches  have  been  used  in  the  making  of 
the  nightgown  ? 

6.  What  seams  have  been  used  in  the  making  of 
the  nightgown? 


CHAPTER  VIII 

WORK  OH  COOKING  APRON 

This  style  of  apron  has  been  adopted  for  a 
cooking  apron  in  several  schools  because  it  does 
not  require  much  material  and  is  easily  laun- 
dered. The  width  is  such  that  it  can  be  easily 
passed  flat  through  a  laundry  mangle  and  there 
are  no  buttons  to  qome  off.  Used  as  a  cooking 
apron,  it  may  be  made  of  muslin,  twilled  jean, 
Indian  head,  or  any  strong  white  material.  If 
for  housework,  blue  engineering  cloth,  calico, 
percale,  or  chambray  may  be  used. 

Standard  Measurements 

Length  of  the  apron  48"  (measured  from  the 
shoulder  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  apron). 
Bust  measure  36". 

Required  Material 

Measure  the  length  from  the  waist  to 
the  point  where  the  hem  of  the  apron 
should  come.  Twice  this  amount  less 
3"  is  the  amount  needed  for  the  apron. 
For  instance,  if  the  distance  from  the 

78 


WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON         79 

waistline  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  apron 
is  30",  twice  this  sum  (60"),  less  3"  or 
57"  is  the  amount  needed  for  the  apron. 


FIG.  28. — WORK  OR  COOKING  APROX 

Parts  of  the  Apron 

I,  body  of  the  apron;  II,  piece  cut  out  from 
the  neck  from  which  the  pocket  is  made;  III, 
gores ;  IV,  piece  left  from  which  the  strings  and 
the  binding  of  the  apron  are  cut;  V,  strings. 
(See  Fig.  29.) 


80  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Preparing  the  Material  for  Drafting  the  Pat- 
tern 

Take  a  piece  of  material  iy2  yards  in  length 
and  fold  this  through  the  center  lengthwise. 
Pin  the  selvages  together  carefully  and  mark 
the  corners  A,  B,  C,  and  D. 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

Let  the  corner  AB  be  the  length  needed  for 

the  apron  and  AC  the  width. 

AE  From  A  on  the  AB  line  mark  6",  and  lo- 
cate E. 

EH  From  E  draw  a  horizontal  line  3"  long, 
parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  IT. 

EF  From  E  on  the  AB  line  draw  a  line  2" 
long,  and  locate  F. 

FG  From  F  draw  a  line  1"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  EH  line,  and  locate  G. 

GH  Connect  GH  by  a  straight  line.  This  line 
will  form  the  seam  in  the  yoke  in  the  middle 
of  the  back. 

FI     From  F  draw  a  line  4-"  long,  and  locate  I. 

IJ  From  I  draw  a  line  4"  long  and  parallel  to 
the  AC  line,  and  locate  J.  This  line  indi- 
cates the  chest  line. 

IK  From  I  on  the  AB  line  measure  6",  and 
locate  K. 

KJG  Connect  KJG  by  a  curved  line.  This 
line  indicates  the  neck  line  of  the  apron. 


WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON        81 


FIG.  29. — DRAFT  OF  WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON 


82  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

KL    From  K  on  the  AB  line  measure  8",  and 

locate  L. 
LM     Extend  the  L  line  parallel  to  the  AC  line, 

and  locate  M.     This  line  indicates  the  waist 

line. 
KN    Extend  the  K  line  1",  parallel  to  the  AC 

line,  and  locate  N.     This  line  indicates  the 

bust  line. 
JO     From  J  draw  a  line  3"  long  and  parallel 

to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  O. 
MP     From  M  on  the  ML  line  measure  6",  and 

locate  P.     This  line  indicates  the  back  part 

of  the  apron. 
PNOH     Connect    PNOH    by    a    curved    line. 

This  line  indicates  the  underarm  seam  and 

the  shoulder  seam  of  the  apron. 

Side  Gore 

MR  From  M  on  the  CD  line  measure  8",  and 
locate  R. 

RS  From  R  measure  a  line  6"  long  and  paral- 
lel to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  S.  This  line 
indicates  the  width  of  the  side  gore. 

PR  Place  the  ruler  on  P  and  R  arid  from  P 
draw  a  diagonal  line  I1/-/'  long,  and  locate 
X. 

MXSC     Connect    these    points    by    a    curved 
line. 
This  will  form  the  outer  seam  of  the  gore 


WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON         83 

which  is  added  to  the  apron.     (See  Fig. 
29  III.) 

Cutting 

While  the  apron  is  still  folded,  cut  out  (1) 
the  neck  line  KJG,  (2)  the  center  back  GH,  (3) 
the  shoulder  and  curved  arm  line  HONPM, 
(4)  the  gores  CSXM.  (5)  Cut  off  V  from  the 
neck  piece  II  and  from  the  piece  IV  as  indi- 
cated by  the  long  dotted  line.  (6)  Cut  out  the 
strings.  (See  Fig.  29.) 

Making 

1.  Take  the   folded  apron  and  the   folded 
gores  and  place  the  gores  with  the  point  C  to 
the  point  M.     The  wider  part  M  will  meet  Z. 
This  point  is  raised  about  V  above  D  to  allow 
for  the  curve  around  the  back  of  the  apron. 

2.  Pin  the  selvage  of  the  apron  and  the  sel- 
vage of  the  gores  with  the  right  sides  together. 

3.  Stitch  by  machine  as  narrow  a  seam  as 
the  selvage  will  allow. 

4.  See  that  the  bottom  of  the  apron  is  even 
and  that  there  is  a  good  curve  at  the  side. 

5.  Take  the  binding  previously  cut  and  pin 
the  right  side  of  the  binding  to  the  right  side  of 
the  apron.     Adjust  the  binding  to  the  part  from 
which  it  was  cut.     (Have  the  connecting  points 
of  the  apron  and  the  facing  meet.) 


84  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

6.  After  these  parts  are  all  pinned  in  place, 
join  the  bindings  together,  stitch  the  seams,  and 
then  press  them  open. 

7.  Stitch  the  binding  to  the  apron  by  Vs" 
line  all  around  the  body  and  the  neck  of  the 
apron. 

8.  Press  this  seam  open  and  turn  the  bind- 
ing on  the  left  side  of  the  apron. 

9.  Crease  the  edges  very  flat  so  that  the 
stitching  is  visible,  and  stitch  again  on  the  right 
side  close  to  the  edge. 

10.  Measure   with   a  gauge,   a   %"  binding. 
Turn  the  cut  edges  under.     Be  careful  that  the 
binding  is  even  all  around  the  apron. 

11.  Pin  and  press  this  before  stitching. 

12.  Stitch  the  binding  very  close  to  the  inner 
edge. 

13.  Close  the  back  with  a  French  or  a  flat  fell 
seam. 

Pocket 

1.  Hem  or  bind  the  pocket  at  the  top. 

2.  Outline  initials  on  the  pocket. 

3.  Measure  5"  from  the  center  front  and  14" 
down  from  the  neck  and  stitch  the  pocket  to  the 
apron. 

Strings 

1.  Cut  the  strings  16"  long  and  2y2"  wide. 
(Bee  V  of  Fig.  29.) 


WORK  OR  COOKING  APRON         85 

2.  Fold  each  of  these  lengthwise  through 
the  center  and  stitch  them  together. 

3.  Press  the  seam  open  and  then  turn  the 
strings  to  the  right  side. 

4.  Stitch  on  the  right  side  all  around  the 
two  long  and  the  one  short  edges. 

5.  Pin  the  strings  to  the  apron,  1"  from  the 
waist  line  and  at  right  angles  to  it. 

6.  Stitch  the  strings  on  the  right  side  of  the 
apron. 

7.  Stitch  along  the  edge  of  the  apron. 
Press  and  fold  the  apron. 

Compute  the  cost:  the  time  spent  in  making 
the  apron. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

Steps  in  Making  the  Cooking  or  Work  Apron 

1.  Fold  the  material. 

2.  Draft  the  pattern. 

3.  Cut  out  the  apron. 

4.  Sew  on  the  gores. 

5.  Cut    out    the    bindings,    the    pocket    and    the 
strings. 

6.  Pin  the  binding  all  around  the  apron  and  the 
neck. 

7.  Pin  and  stitch  the  seams  in  the  binding. 

8.  Stitch  the  binding  to  the  apron. 

9.  Open  the  seam  of  the  binding. 

10.  Turn  the  binding  to  the  wrong  side. 


86  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

11.  Stitch  the  binding  very  close  to  the  edge  all 
around  the  body  and  the  neck  of  the  apron. 

12.  Turn  the  raw  edge  of  the  binding  under  so  as 
to  leave  a  finished  binding  of  y%"  to  %". 

13.  See  that  the  binding  is  even  all  around.     Use 
the  gauge  to  test,  then  stitch  very  close  to  the  turned 
edge. 

14.  Close  the  opening  at  the  back  with  a  French 
or  a  flat  fell  seam. 

15.  Prepare  the  pocket,     (a)   Outline  the  initials, 
(b)  hem  the  top,  (c)  turn  under  the  edges  around  the 
sides  and  the  bottom,    (d)   stitch  the  pocket  to  the 
apron. 

16.  Make  the  strings. 

17.  Stitch  the  strings  to  the  apron. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  Name  suitable  materials  that  can  be  used  for 
the  cooking  apron. 

2.  Name  suitable  materials  that  can  be  used  for 
aprons  for  housework. 

3.  How  are  the  edges  of  this  apron  finished  ? 

4.  Name  different  ways  that  the  edges  could  be 
finished. 

5.  What  seams  were  used  in  the  construction  of 
this  apron? 

6.  How  are  the  strings  made  ? 


CHAPTER  IX 

GORES 

1.  First  Method  (See  Fig.  30). 

Ordinarily,  material  varies  in  width  from  27" 
to  36",  but  this  is  not  wide  enough  for  the  bot- 
tom of  some  of  the  garments  of  adults.  To  pro- 
vide the  necessary  width,  gores  are  needed  and 
these  may  be  cut  in  different  ways. 

Figure  30  shows  a  nightgown  cut  out  of 
36"  material.  If  the  width  BD  is  not  sufficient, 
we  may  add  a  gore.  By  cutting  part  LONMD 
from  under  the  sleeves  all  along  the  diagonal 
to  the  bottom,  we  may  obtain  two  gores  or  rather 
four  half  gores.  One  of  these  gores  may  be 
sewed  to  the  line  ND  by  placing  the  line  NOL 
with  the  selvage  at  DM.  These,  then,  may  be 
sewed  with  the  broader  top  part  LO  to  the  lower 
pointed  part  D. 

2.  Second  Method  (See  Fig.  31). 

To  add  gores  to  27"  material  If  27"  mate- 
rial is  used,  as  in  cotton  crepe,  not  only  gores 
are  needed  to  widen  the  bottom,  but  frequently 
the  sleeves  also  must  be  added.  (See  Fig.  31 

D 

87 


88 


GARMENTS  FOR  GTRLS 


The  dotted  line  AB  indicates  the  center  front 
and  the  length  of  the  garment. 

The  line  CND  indicates  the  selvage  of  the 


FIG.  30. — FIKST  METHOD  OF  PUTTING  ON  GORES 

27"  material ;  MDN,  the  added  gore ;  CH  JN,  the 
added  sleeve.  The  sleeve  should  measure  5". 
It  is  more  economical  to  buy  and  cut  two  night- 
gowns because  one  length  of  ly^  yards  will  make 


GORES 


89 


the  four  gores  and  sleeves  for  both  nightgowns. 
(See  Fig.  31  II.) 

Take  a  piece  of  material  1%  yards  long.     This 
piece  will  furnish  material  for  four  gores  and 


FIG.  31. — SECOND  METHOD  OF  PUTTING  ON  GORES  AND  SLEEVES 

four  sleeves.  As  shown  in  Fig.  31  II,  the 
third  and  fourth  sleeve  must  be  pieced  from 
parts  cut  away  at  the  square  neck. 


90  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

3.  Third  Method  (See  Fig.  32). 

AB  Fold  the  material  AB  lengthwise.  Keep 
the  selvage  edges  on  the  right. 

ABCD  Mark  the  upper  left-hand  corner  A, 
the  lower  left-hand  corner  B,  the  upper 
right-hand  corner  C,  and  the  lower  right- 
hand  corner  D. 

LO    Locate  the  underarm  seam  LO. 

F  Locate  the  middle  point  of  DL  and  mark 
it  F. 

OLF    From  0  measure  3y2"  on  the  edge  OL. 
Connect  0  and  F  by  a  lead  pencil  line. 
Cut  away  the  corner  LOF.     This  is  the 
gore. 

To  sew  on  this  gore,  place  the  larger  part 
of  the  gore  OL  so  that  D  will  meet  L  on 
the  DH  line. 

Be  sure  that  the  selvage  edge  L  of  the 
gore  is  next  to  the  selvage  edge  D. 
In  many  French  chemises  and  nightgowns, 
one  finds  that  the  back  gores  are  often  con- 
siderably longer  and  wider  than  the  front 
gores. 

The  best  line  and  the  neatest  work  are  ob- 
tained by  sewing  the  selvage  edges  of  the 
gores  to  the  selvage  edges  of  the  garment. 
If  only  one  gore  is  used  and  two  bias  edges 
of  the  gore  are  sewed  to  the  selvage  edges 
of  the  garment,  the  straight  edge  is  felled 


GOBES 

over  the  bias  edge  of  the 
fell  is  made. 


91 

gore  and  a  flat 


FIG.  32. — THIRD  METHOD  OF  ADDING  GOBES 


CHAPTER  X 

COOKING  OR  SERVING  APRON 

This  apron,  like  the  kimono  apron,  may  have 
the  skirt  closed  or  open.  If  the  skirt  is  closed, 
it  often  takes  the  place  of  a  dress  skirt,  and 
worn  with  a  white  waist  it  makes  a  very  satis- 
factory garment  for  the  student  in  a  food  lab- 
oratory, for  the  nurse  in  a  hospital,  or  for  the 
waitress  whose  work  requires  a  clean  and  neat 
appearance.  For  nursing  and  cooking  aprons 
such  materials  as  Indian  head,  twilled  jean,  cos- 
tume cloth,  muslin,  crash,  drilling,  etc.,  may  be 
used.  For  housework  any  material  suggested 
for  the  kimono  apron  may  be  chosen. 

Standard  Measurements 

The  same  standard  measurements  as  for  the 
kimono  apron  are  used :  Length  52",  length  of 
front  16",  bust  36". 

Required  Material 

Twice  the  length  of  36"  wide  material, 
No.  90  white  thread  for  stitching, 
white  bastino-  thread,  No.  8  needles 

92 


COOKING  OR  SERVING  APRON      93 

"Sharps"  for  basting,  No.  8  needles 
"betweens"  for  buttonholes,  No.  50 
white  thread  for  buttonholes,  No.  36 


FIG.  33. — COOKING  OB  SERVING         FIG.  34. — COOKING  OR  SERVING 
APRON   (Front  view)  APRON  (Back  view) 

white  thread  for  sewing  on  buttons,  No. 
6  or  7  needles  "Sharps"  for  sewing  on 
buttons,  6  white  pearl  buttons  y2"  in 
diameter. 


94  GAEMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

Parts  of  the  Apron 

(1)  Body  of  apron,  (2)  pocket  obtained  from 
the  neck  piece,  (3)  facings  to  strengthen  the 
shoulder  pieces,  (4)  bias  facings  for  the  neck 
and  pocket  finish,  (5)  belt.  (See  Fig.  32.) 

Preparing  the  Material  for  Drafting  the  Pat- 
tern 

Straighten  the  material,  fold  it  first  length- 
wise and  then  crosswise,  and  pin  according  to 
the  directions  for  the  kimono  apron. 

Drafing.the  Pattern  (See  Fig.  32). 

AB  the  length  of  the  apron. 

AC  a/4  of  the  entire  width. 

AE  From  A  measure  16"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  E.  This  indicates  the  waist  line. 

EL  From  E  draw  a  line  12"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  L.  This  indi- 
cates the  point  where  the  side  seam  will 
come. 

AF  From  A  measure  8"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  F.  This  line  indicates  the  bust  line. 

AJ  From  A  measure  4"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  J.  This  line  indicates  the  chest  line. 

AG  Draw  a  4"  square  in  the  upper  left-hand 
corner  A,  locating  thus  AIGJ.  These  lines 
indicate  the  neck  line. 

AH    From  A  measure  9"  on  the  AC  line,  and 


COOKING  OB  SERVING  APRON      95 


locate  H.     This  line  indicates  the  width  of 
the  chest. 

l-^W-v" 

a 

IbJ 


FIG.  35. — DRAFT  FOR  COOKING  OR  SERVING  APRON 


96  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

HK  From  H  draw  a  line  16"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  CD  line. 

LM  From  L  draw  a  line  upward  3"  long  and 
parallel  to  the  CD  line.  This  indicates  the 
underarm  opening. 

ON  Draw  a  line  I1/-?"  below  and  parallel  to 
IH,  and  locate  ON.  This  line  indicates  the 
front  shoulder  opening. 

SS'  On  each  side  of  N  draw  a  straight  line 
3/4"  long,  and  locate  S  and  S'.  Connect  S, 
S'  and  O  by  straight  lines.  This  will  form 
a  wedge  which  is  S'O  l1/^"  wide  between 
S  and  S'  and  runs  to  a  point  at  0.  This 
will  adjust  the  apron  to  the  slope  of  the 
shoulders.  Round  the  corners  S  and  S'  like 
the  corners  00 T.  (See  Fig.  35.) 

SUM  From  S  draw  a  curved  line,  SUM. 
Curve  it  i/2"  at  T  and  4"  above  K  on  the 
KH  line. 

DR  From  D  on  the  DC  line  measure  3",  and 
locate  R. 

Tracing  and  Cutting 

1.  Trace   with    the    tracing   wheel    all    the 
drafted  lines  around  the  neck  and  shoulders. 

2.  Cut  out  the  rounded  neck  JGOI.     Then 
cut  out  along  the  traced  line  the  underarm  and 
side  seam  HSS'UM. 

3.  When  cutting  the  shoulder  seam  NO,  be 


COOKING  OB  SERVING  APRON      97 

very  careful  that  the  two  fronts  are  short  and 
that  the  part  S'OIH  remains  for  the  back. 
This  makes  the  back  longer  so  that  it  may  but- 
ton over  the  shoulder  on  to  the  front  piece. 

4.  On  the  four  shoulder  pieces  cut  on  each 
side  of  N  the  wedge  shaped  piece  NSO.     This 
is  %"  from  each  side  of  NS  slanting  to  a  point 
atO. 

5.  Round  one  corner  of  the  front  piece  by 
marking  %"  down  on  each  side  and  cutting  to 
that  point.     When  this  corner  is  rounded,  fold 
each  shoulder  piece  through  the  center  length- 
wise and  cut  each  remaining  corner  exactly  like 
the  first  one. 

6.  Cut  out  5  for  the  belt,  3  for  the  shoulder 
facings,  and  4  for  the  bias  bands.     Save  2  cut 
out  from  the  neck  for  the  pocket.     (See  Fig. 
35.) 

7.  Mark  each  piece  on  the  wrong  side  with 
its  full  name. 

Making  the  Apron 

1.  Belt: 

The  four  pieces  marked  5  are  used 
for  the  belt.  Each  pair  must  be  sewed 
together  so  that  the  seam  comes  at  the 
back. 

(a)  Join  two  pieces  together  with 
a  plain  seam  and  crease  this  seam  well. 


98  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

(b)  Place  the  belts  with  the  right 
sides   and   seams   together.     Pin   two 
long  sides  and  one  short  side  evenly  to- 
gether. 

(c)  Mark     with     the     yardstick     a 
straight  line  y±"  from  each  edge  of  the 
belt. 

(d)  Follow  this  line  and  stitch  the 
three  sides  by  machine. 

(e)  Open  each  seam  and  crease  it 
flat. 

(f)  Miter  each  corner. 

(g)  Start  at  the  small  stitched  end 
to  turn  the  belt  right  side  out.     After 
you  have  it  turned  back  V  or  2"  (so  as 
to  make  a  tiny  pocket)  insert  a  yard- 
stick and  draw  the  belt  over  it.     This 
will  facilitate  the  process  of  turning  the 
belt  right  side  out. 

(h)  Straighten  the  seams  of  the  belt 
and  crease  them  very  flat  so  that  the 
stitching  will  be  at  the  very  edge.  Use 
pins  to  pull  out  the  corners.  Make 
these  corners  square. 

(i)  Finish  the  short  open  end  either 
round  or  square,  and  turn  both  sides 
exactly  alike. 

(j)  Stitch  very  close  to  the  edge  all 
around  the  belt.  It  is  advisable  to 


COOKING  OR  SERVING  APRON      99 

press  the  belt  before  it  is  stitched  the 
second  time. 

2.  Shoulder  facing : 

The  four  pieces  marked  3  are  used 
to  reinforce  and  face  the  shoulder 
pieces.  Before  basting  them  to  the 
apron,  stitch  %"  hem  on  the  lower  side 
of  each  facing  and  then  place  the  wrong 
side  of  the  apron  next  to  the  wrong 
side  of  the  facing,  being  careful  that 
the  warp  and  the  woof  run  in  the  same 
direction. 

3.  Making  of  the  bias  strips : 

Cut  the  bias  strips  as  indicated  in 
the  drafting  of  the  pattern.  There 
will  be  four  strips  3"  wide.  Fold  the 
cut  edges  together  and  cut  through  the 
center  fold.  This  will  give  a  piece  I1/*/' 
wide.  Again  join  these  pieces  and  fold 
carefully  in  half  and  cut  through  cen- 
ter fold.  Join  these.  One  long  piece 
%"  wide  will  remain.  A  piece  l1/^ 
yards  long  is  required  for  each  front 
and  the  same  amount  for  each  back. 
To  prepare  the  facing  fold  this  %" 
strip  with  cut  edges  together  at  the 
center  and  crease  them  well;  or  better, 
press  them  with  a  hot  iron. 

Bias  facings  or  bindings  folded  in 


100  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

this  manner  will  give  satisfactory  re- 
sults. 
4.  Basting  the  bias  facing  to  the  apron : 

Before  basting  the  bias  facing  to  the 
apron,  see  that  the  shoulder  facing  is 


FIG.  36. — DETAIL  OF  SEWING  BIAS  FACING  ON  COOKING  OR 
SERVING  APRON 

A,  Facing  stretched  into  shape;  B,  wrong  side  of  edge 
turned  on  the  right  side  of  apron;  C,  facing  basted  to  apron; 
D,  first  stitching  near  the  outside  edge  of  bias  piece;  E,  sec- 
ond stitching  near  the  inner  edge  of  bias  piece. 

basted  carefully  and  that  the  corners 
are  well  rounded. 

(a)  Turn  and  crease  well  (or  press 
with  hot  iron)  an  %"  even  turn  from 
the  left  to  the  right  side  around  the 
edge  of  the  neck  and  of  the  armseye  of 


COOKING  OR  SETKVma  APR(3lV  191; 


the  front  and  the  back  of  the  apron. 

(b)  Take  the  folded  bias  piece  be- 
ginning at  the  underarm  seam  and  ap- 
ply this  as  a  facing  on  the  right  side 
of  the  apron.  Make  sure  that  the  edge 
of  the  bias  is  exactly  even  with  the  first 
turn.  Baste  the  facing  with  an  un- 
even basting  stitch,  taking  care  to 
stretch  the  outer  edge  of  the  bias  fac- 
ing almost  to  a  semi  -circle  around  the 
curves  of  the  neck  and  of  the  armseye. 
The  facing  must  be  stretched  so  that 
it  lies  perfectly  flat  around  the  curves 
without  the  slightest  wrinkle. 

At  the  neck  where  the  curves  are  re- 
versed the  inward  curve  must  be 
stretched.  Baste  only  around  the 
outer  edge.  When  both  the  front  and 
the  back  are  basted,  stitch  very  close 
to  the  outer  edge,  using  as  fine  a  needle 
as  the  thread  will  allow.  When  the 
first  stitching  is  done  on  both  the  front 
and  the  back,  then  remove  the  basting 
thread  and  stitch  the  lower  edge. 
(Fig.  36.) 
Joining  the  back  to  the  front  : 

Join  the  back  to  the  front  with  a 
French  seam. 


02^       ''OiSMflflNTS  FOR  GIRLS 


Putting  in  the  iiem: 

(1)  Try  the  apron  on,  (2)  adjust  the 
length,  (3)  put  in  the  hem  as  done  in 
previous  garments. 
Sewing  on  the  pocket  : 

See  page  58  for  description  of  pocket 
of  kimono  apron. 
Stitching  the  belt  to  the  apron  : 

Stitch  the  belt  to  the  apron  by  plac- 
ing the  seams  of  the  belt  at  the  center 
of  the  back  of  the  waist.     Stitch  two 
parallel  rows  of  stitching  on  each  side 
of  the  seam  of  the  belt. 
Buttonholes  : 
Sewing  on  buttons  : 
Pressing  and  folding: 

Moisten  the  apron  with  a   sponge, 
press  and  fold  carefully. 
Compute  the  cost  :  the  time. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Fold  the  material  for  drafting  tha  pattern. 

2.  Draft  the  pattern. 

3.  Cut  out  the  apron. 

4.  Cut  out  the  belt. 

5.  Make  the  belt. 

6.  Reinforce  the  shoulder  seams. 

7.  Cut  the  bias  binding. 

8.  Prepare  the  bias  binding. 

9.  Pin  and  stitch  the  bias  binding  to  both  front 
and  back  of  the  apron. 


COOKING  OB  SERVING  APRON    103 

10.  Sew  up  the  side  seams. 

11.  Prepare  the  pocket. 

12.  Try  on  the  apron. 

13.  Decide    where    the    buttons    and    buttonholes 
should  come. 

14.  Pin  the  belt  to  the  apron. 

15.  Pin  the  pocket  to  the  apron. 

16.  Adjust  the  length. 

17.  Turn  the  hem  at  the  bottom. 

18.  Stitch  the  hem  at  the  bottom. 

19.  Stitch  the  belt  to  the  apron. 

20.  Stitch  the  pocket  to  the  apron. 

21.  Make  the  buttonholes. 

22.  Sew  on  the  buttons. 

23.  Mark  the  apron  with  the  initial. 

24.  Press  the  apron. 

25.  Fold  the  apron. 

26.  Compute  the  cost. 

27.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  materials  can  be  used  for  this  type  of 
apron  ? 

2.  How  was  the  bias  binding  cut? 

3.  What  precautions  are  necessary  in  sewing  the 
bias  binding  together? 

4.  What  is  the  difference  between  a  true  bias  and 
a  garment  bias  ?     How  do  you  recognize  each  ? 

5.  When  can  a  garment  bias  be  used  and  where 
must  the  true  bias  be  used? 

6.  What  seams  were  used  in  this  garment? 


CHAPTER  XI 

PETTICOATS 

The  petticoats  shown  in  Fig.  37  are  cut  with- 
out the  assistance  of  paper  patterns.  The 
measurements  are  marked  directly  on  the  cloth. 


FIG.  37. — SIX-GORED  FLAXNEL  PETTICOAT  WITH  SCALLOPED 

EDGE 

A,  Double-hemmed  placket;  B,  division  of  the  band;  C,  fell 

and  catch-stitched  seam 

104 


PETTICOATS  105 

A  petticoat  for  either  children  or  adults  may  be 
cut  with  2,  4,  or  6  gores,  depending  on  whether 
the  material  has  a  right  or  a  wrong  side.  If  it 
has  a  right  or  a  wrong  side  then  either  2  gores 
or  6  gores  are  necessary. 

Petticoats  may  be  made  of  outing  flannel, 
sateen,  woolen  shirting,  cambric,  muslin,  etc. 

Standard  measurements  for  a  girl  of  15  years : 
Waist  26",  length  22". 

OUTING  FLANNEL  PETTICOAT 

Required  Material 

V/4  yards  cotton  flannel  or  2  lengths  of 
the  material,  No.  70  white  thread  for 
stitching,  No.  50  white  thread  for  bast- 
ing, No.  40  white  thread  for  button- 
holes, No.  6  needles,  1  white  button  %" 
in  diameter,  No.  40  crochet  cotton  if, 
instead  of  a  hem,  crocheted  scallops  are 
preferred,  No.  6  crochet  hook. 

Four-Gored  Petticoat 

A  four-gored  petticoat  may  be  made  of  cot- 
ton flannel  or  any  other  material  which  has  no 
right  or  wrong  sides. 

Cutting  (See  Fig.  38  I). 

Cut  1%  yards  of  material  27"  wide  into  two 
equal  parts. 


106  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

On  the  selvage  edge  of  one  of  these  two  parts 

measuring  22y2"  long,  cut  a  strip  22^"  long  and 

10"  wide.     This  is  for  the  front  gore. 

AB  Fold  this  strip  lengthwise.  (See  AB,  Fig. 
38  I.)  Keep  the  fold  to  the  left  and  the 
cut  edges  to  the  right. 

AC  From  the  upper  folded  edge  A  measure 
31//'  °n  the  upper  edge,  and  locate  C. 

CD     With  a  ruler,  draw  a  sharp  line  from  C  to 
the  lower  right-hand  corner  of  the  goods. 
See  D  (I)  in  Fig.  38  I. 
Cut  along  the  line  CD.    What  remains  is 
the  front  gore. 

From  the  17"  of  goods  left  uncut,  cut  a 
band  2"  wide  along  the  selvage.  The  re- 
maining goods  will  form  the  back  gore  (II). 
Fold  this  piece  in  the  center.  (See  Fig. 
38  II.)  On  the  fold  cut  down  10"  for  a 
placket. 

Place  the  remaining  half  of  the  goods 
(221/2//  long)  with  the  cut  edges  at  the  top 
and  the  bottom  and  the  selvage  edges  at  the 
sides.  (See  Fig.  38  III.) 

AE  From  the  upper  left-hand  corner  measure 
9"  or  one-third  of  the  width  of  the  mate- 
rial on  the  cut  edge.  Mark  that  point  with 
a  pin. 

DE'  From  the  lower  right-hand  corner  meas- 
ure 9"  on  the  cut  edge  DE',  and  put  in  a 


PETTICOATS 


107 


FIG.  38. — DRAFT  FOR  PETTICOATS,  FOUR  AND  Six  GOBEH 


108  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

pin.     Draw  a  lino  connecting  the  two  pins. 
EE'     Cut  along  the  line  EE'. 
EL     From  the  top  of  each  bias  EE'  measure 

221/2",  or  the  side  length.     Put  in  a  pin  at 

L.  ' 
LM     Draw  a  curved  line  LM  connecting  the 

pin  with  the  bottom  of  the  skirt. 

Making 

1.  Pin  one  bias  side  of  the  front  gore  to  the 
selvage  edge  of  the  side  gore. 

2.  Pin  the  bias  edge  of  this  side  gore  to  the 
straight  edge  of  the  back  gore.     Be  sure  that  all 
the  gores  are  even  at  the  waist. 

3.  Pin  on  the  other  side  gore  the  same  as  the 
first  one. 

4.  Pin  the  back  gore  to  the  side  gore. 

5.  Stitch  all  these  seams. 

6.  Make  each  seam  a  flat  fell  seam.     This 
may  be  stitched  by  machine  or  catch  stitched.    • 

7.  Fold  the  front  gore  straight  down  the  cen- 
ter. 

8.  Locate  a  point  3V,"  on  each  side  of  the 
center  fold  A  and  locate  0. 

9.  Locate  a  point  I1/."  from  the  top  A. 

10.  Join  this  point  to  C  by  a  straight  line. 

11.  Cut  away  the  goods  on  this  line.     This 


PETTICOATS 


109 


FIG.  39. — PLACKET  WITH  UNEVEN  HEMS    (Wrong  side  of 
material) 

A,  First  turn  of  hems  folded  and  marked;  B,  second  turn 
folded;  C,  narrow  hem  overlaps  the  large  one;  D,  hems 
stitched  and  bottom  of  placket  reinforced. 


110  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

cutting  away  will  prevent  the  bulging  of  the 
skirt  in  front. 

12.  Make   a   double-hemmed   placket    in   the 
back,  10"  in  length  (Fig.  39). 

13.  Divide  the  skirt  into  4  parts,  one  point  at 
the  center  of  the  front,  one  point  between  the 
center  and  the  back  on  each  side.     Mark  these 
points  with  thread  of  a  contrasting  color. 

Putting  on  the  Band 

1.  Run  two  gathering  threads  around  the  top 
of  the  skirt.     Put  the  first  one  in  %"  from  the 
edge  of  the  skirt  and  the  second  one  Vs"  from 
the  first  one. 

2.  Make  sure  that  the  belt  is  3"  or  4"  longer 
than  the  waist  measure.     This  extra  allowance 
is  to  be  divided  V  or  2"  for  overlapping,  and 
a  turn  of  at  least  V  at  each  end  of  the  band  at 
the  place  where  the  strain  comes  on  account  of 
the  button  and  the  buttonhole. 

3.  Measure  off  from  each  end  the  amount  to 
be  turned  over  for  the  strengthening  of  the  end. 
Mark  these  points  with  a  thread  of  a  contrasting 
color. 

4.  Using  these  points  as  ends  of  the  band, 
divide  the  remainder  of  the  band  into  4  equal 
parts.     Mark  each  point  with  a  thread  of  a  con- 
trasting color. 


PETTICOATS  111 

5.  Draw  up  the  shirring  strings  of  the  skirt 
to  meet  the  band  approximately. 

6.  Pin  the  right  side  of  the  band  to  the  wrong 
side  of  the  skirt. 

7.  Be  sure  that  the  middle  of  the  front  of  the 
band  meets  the  middle  point  of  the  skirt.     Pin  it 
securely. 

8.  At  both  ends  of  the  band,  turn  and  pin 
back  the  amount  allowed  for  strengthening  the 
button  and  buttonhole. 

9.  Pin  the  end  of  the  placket  to  what  is  now 
the  end  of  the  band. 

10.  Bring  together  the  mark  for  the  center  of 
each  side  of  the  skirt  and  of  the  center  of  each 
side  of  the  band. 

11.  Push  the  shirring  of  the  skirt  about  V 
from  the  center  of  the  side  of  the  band  toward 
the  back.     This  will  give  more  fullness  to  the 
back  and  less  across  the  front  and  the  hips. 

12.  Pin  or  baste  the  skirt  and  band  together. 

13.  Draw  up  the  shirring  threads  so  that  the 
skirt  fits  the  belt  exactly. 

14.  Fasten  the  shirring  threads  by  winding 
them  around  the  pins  at  each  end  of  the  band. 

15.  In  stitching  the  band  to  the  skirt  keep 
about  14"  from  the  edge. 

16.  Open  the  seam  and  crease  it  down.     Then 
press  it  back  again. 


112  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

1 7.  Turn  under  the  raw  edge  of  the  band. 

18.  Bring  this  turned  edge  to  meet  the  shir- 
ring threads. 

19.  Baste  or  pin  the  band  down. 

20.  Stitch  all  around  the  band.     See  that  the 


FIG.  40. — DETAIL  OF  SEWING  A  BAND  TO  GARMENT 

edges  are  square  and  that  the  end  of  the  belt 
and  the  end  of  the  skirt  meet  exactly. 
Finishing  the  Bottom 

The  bottom  may  be  hemmed  or  scalloped. 

SIX-GORED  PETTICOAT  WITH  RUFFLE 

Suitable  Material 

Sateen,  silk,  chambray,  crepe,  seersucker  or 
gingham  may  be  used. 


PETTICOATS  113 

Required  Material 

For  a  petticoat  with  a  pleated  ruffle  as 
shown  in  Fig.  41,  2 14  or  2yL>  yards  of 
goods  36"  wide  are  needed.  The  exact 
amount  is  determined  by  measuring  the 
length  of  the  skirt,  subtracting  the 
width  of  the  ruffle  and  multiplying  the 
results  by  2.  For  example,  if  the  skirt 
when  finished  is  to  be  36"  and  a  ruffle  6" 
deep  is  desired,  the  length  of  the  skirt 
would  be  36"—  6"  or  30".  This  multi- 
plied by  2  would  give  60";  that  is,  you 
would  need  60",  or  1  2/3  yards  of  goods 
for  the  main  part  of  the  petticoat.  To 
this  estimate,  the  ruffle  must  be  added. 

Cutting  the  Front  and  the  Back  Gores 

1.  A  petticoat  made   from  material  either 
27"  or  36"  wide,  with  a  right  and  a  wrong  side, 
may  have  six  gores. 

2.  The  front  and  the  back  gores  are  cut  the 
same  as  in  the  previous  petticoat.     (See  Fig. 
38  I,  IT.) 

3.  Each  side  consists  of  two  gores,  and  these 
four  gores  are  cut  from  one  length  of  the  goods. 
(See  Fig.  38  IV.) 


114  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Cutting  the  Side  Gores 

Take  the  length  of  the  material  and  fold  it 
once  lengthwise. 


Fl(;   4i.._ PLEATED  RUFFLE  SEWED  TO  A  SCALLOPED  PETTICOAT 


Lay  the  goods  on  the  table  with,  the  fold  at 

the  left. 

AB  Mark  the  upper  left-hand  corner  of  the 
goods  A  and  the  lower  end  of  the  fold  B, 
the  upper  right  corner  C,  and  the  lower 
corner  D.  (See  IV.) 


PETTICOATS  115 

AE  From  A  measure  one-third  of  the  dis- 
tance AC,  and  locate  E. 

BM  From  D  measure  one-third  of  the  dis- 
tance BD,  and  locale  M. 

EM     Connect  E  and  M  hy  a  straight  line. 

Cutting 

1.  Cut  through  the  fold  AB. 

2.  Cut  the  goods  along  EM.     There  will  now 
be  four  gores. 

Making 

1.  To  each  side  of  the  front  gore  CD   (I), 
join  one  of  the  gores  just  cut.     For  example, 
AB  (IV)  to  CD  (I). 

2.  To  each  of  the  bias  sides  of  these  gores 
pin  one  of  the  straight  sides  of  the  gores  cut 
according  to  Fig.  38.     (For  example,  join  the 
side  CD  to  EM  of  the  same  figure.)     Make  sure 
that  the  petticoat  is  even  at  the  top.     Do  not 
worry   about    the    unevenness    at    the    bottom. 
This  can  be  remedied  later  when  the  gores  are 
put  together. 

3.  Pin  the  straight  side  of  the  last  gore  to  the 
bias  side  of  one  of  the  other  gores. 

4.  Join  the  last  two  sides  together. 

5.  Sew  the  seam  with  a  flat  fell  seam.     Out- 
ing flannel  is  best  felled  on  the  wrong  side. 


116  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

Sateen,  silk,  or  any  fancy  material  is  best  felled 
on  the  right  side. 

6.  Measure  V  from  the  top  of  the  center 
fold  of  the  front  gore  and  mark  the  point  with 
a  pin. 

7.  Measure  6"  on  each  side  of  the  top  of  the 
center  fold  and  the  front  gore  and  put  a  pin  at 
each  end. 

8.  Connect  the  pin  at  each  side  with  the  pin 
at  the  center  by  a  straight  line. 

9.  Cut  the  goods  along  these  two  lines.     This 
will  make  the  front  gore  fit  properly. 

10.  Measure   the   length   of   the   skirt   from 
the  top  to  the  bottom  at  the  center  of  the  back 
gore. 

11.  Measure  each  side  seam  from  the  top  and 
put  in  a  pin  to  mark  the  same  distance  as  tlie 
back  of  the  skirt. 

12.  Trim  off  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  so  as  to 
make  it  even.     Use  pins  as  a  guide. 

13.  The  bottom  may  be  finished  with  either 
a  hem  or  a  ruffle. 

The  Ruffle 

1.  The  amount  needed  for  a  shirred  ruffle 
is  one  and  one-half  times  the  width  of  the  skirt, 
or  a  little  less. 

2.  Join  the  parts  of  the  ruffle  and  make  it 
continuous. 


PETTICOATS  117 

3.  The  bottom  of  the  ruffle  may  be  finished 
with  tucks,  hem,  embroidery  or  scallops. 

4.  Divide  the  ruffle  into  4  equal  sections  and 
mark  these  sections  with  a  thread  of  a  contrast- 
ing color. 

5.  Shir  then  the  top  of  the  ruffle.     This  may 
be  done  in  three  ways:     (a)   By  using  the  ruf- 
fler  on  the  machine;  (b)  by  loosening  the  ten- 
sion and  making  the  stitch  longer;  (c)  by  gath- 
ering by  hand. 

The  second  method  is  the  easier  and  quicker. 

Putting  on  the  Ruffl<c 

The  ruffles  may  be  put  on  (a)  by  means  of  the 
receiving  tuck,  (b)  by  means  of  finishing  braid, 
or  (c)  by  means  of  a  French  seam. 

The  first  of  these  is  the  method  most 
used. 

Receiving  Tuck 

1.  Divide  the  skirt  into  four  sections  and 
mark  each  with  a  pin. 

2.  Divide  the  ruffle  into  four  sections  and 
mark  each  with  a  thread  of  a  contrasting  color. 

3.  Pin  each  of  the  points  marked  by  a  thread 
to  a  point  on  the  petticoat  marked  by  a  pin. 

4.  Be  sure  that  the  wrong  side  of  the  petti- 
coat meets  the  wrong  side  of  the  ruffle. 


118  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

5.  Draw  up  the  threads  so  that  the  ruffle 
meets  the  petticoat  at  all  points  between  the 
pins. 


FIG.  42. — RUFFLE  ATTACHED  TO  GARMENT  WITH  A  RECEIVING 

TUCK 

A,  Ruffle,  stitched  to  the  garment;  B,  seam  opened  and 
creased  back;  C,  %"  tuck;  D,  crease  of  tuck  stitched  on  the 
ruffle;  E,  embroidery  edge  sewed  to  insertion  with  a  French 
seam. 

6.  Divide  the  fullness  of  the  ruffle  evenly  in 
each  section. 

7.  Pin  or  baste  the  ruffle  on  to  the  petti- 
coat. 


PETTICOATS  119 

8.  Stitch  the  ruffle  to  the  petticoat  as  close 
to  the  edge  of  the  ruffle  as  is  practicable.     About 
W  °r  Vs"  is  usually  needed. 

9.  Open  the  seam  and  then  press  it  back  on 
the  skirt. 

10.  Straighten  out  the  petticoat  so  that  the 
right  side  of  the  ruffle  and  the  right  side  of  the 
petticoat  are  on  top. 

11.  From  the  stitching  measure  %"  by  means 
of  a  gauge.     Crease  the  skirt  so  as  to  have  a 
continuous  line  all  around  the  skirt  and  %"  from 
the  stitching. 

12.  Turn  this  creased   line   down   upon   the 
stitching  so  as  to  cover  the  edge  of  the  ruffle. 
(See  Fig.  42.) 

13.  Baste  this  crease  to  the  ruffle. 

14.  Stitch  close  to  the  edge  of  this  crease. 

15.  Turn  the  skirt  wrong  side  out  and  stitch 
down  the  pleat  at  the  top  of  the  ruffle. 

Ruffle  finished  by  means  of  a  finishing  braid. 
(Fig.  43.) 

The  putting  of  the  ruffle  to  the  garment  and 
the  finishing  with  a  bias  binding  or  braid  is 
shown  in  Fig.  43. 

Pleated  Ruffle  (See  Fig.  41). 

For  a  pleated  ruffle  ordinarily  3  yards  or  3 
widths  of  the  material  are  used. 

1.  Join  the  pieces  of  the  ruffle  and  make  a 
narrow  hem.     The  hemmer  may  be  used. 


120  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Divide  the  ruffle  into  eight  sections  and 
mark   the    sections   by   means    of    contrasting 
thread. 

3.  Draw  with  tailor's  chalk,  lines  from  top 
to  bottom  and  I1/-/'  apart. 


FIG.  43.— RUFFLE  ATTACHED  WITH  A  FINISHING  BRAID 

4.  Fold  over  each  of  these  lines  and  press 
each  with  a  hot  iron. 

5.  Take  each  fold  that  is  pressed  and  make  a 
pleat  %"  deep. 

6.  Pin  each  pleat  in  place. 

7.  Baste  these  pleats  with  a  strong  thread. 

8.  Be  careful  not  to  make  a  back  stitch,  which 


PETTICOATS  121 

would  later  prevent  the  adjusting  of  the  ruffle 
to  the  petticoat. 

9.  Press  well  with  a  hot  iron  on  the  wrong 
side.  Lay  a  piece  of  damp  cheesecloth  over  the 
pleats. 

10.  Sew  the  parts  of  the  ruffle  together  and 
adjust  the  sections  of  the  ruffle  to  the  sections  of 
the  petticoat  according  to  the  directions  given 
for  a  shirred  ruffle. 


SCALLOPED  PETTICOAT  WITH  KUFFLE 

1.  Fold  the  petticoat  down  the  center  of  the 
front. 

2.  Divide    each    half    of    the    bottom    into 
four  equal  parts  and  mark  each  division  with 
a  pin. 

3.  Find  the  center  of  each  of  the  two  pins 
and  from  this  center  measure  3"  toward  the  top 
of  the  skirt.     Put  a  pin  there. 

4.  When  all  the  pins  are  put  in,  join  each 
lower  edge  to  each  pin  which  is  just  above  it, 
by  means  of  a  straight  line  drawn  with  tailor's 
chalk. 

5..  Cut  the  goods  on  these  lines  so  as  to  form 
the  scallops.     (See  Fig.  41.) 


122  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

Putting  the  Ruffle  on  the  Petticoat 

1.  Take  the  petticoat  and  pin  the  section  of 
the  petticoat  to  the  section  of  the  ruffle. 

2.  Adjust  the  ruffle  to  the  petticoat. 

3.  Pin  the  ruffle  to  the  petticoat  so  that  the 
top  of  the  ruffle  comes  about  a  quarter  above 
the  tops  of  the  scallops. 

4.  Baste  the  ruffle  on  the  petticoat. 

5.  Turn  the  petticoat  on  the  right  side  and 
baste  down  the  scallops  onto  the  ruffle. 

6.  Stitch  the  scallops  close  to  the  edge  on  the 
right  side. 

7.  Turn  over  to  the  wrong  side  and  cut  away 
the  ruffle  so  that  only  a  14"  edge  remains.     This 
edge  may  be  pinked  or  overcast. 

8.  If  the  material  is  closely  woven  and  does 
not  easily  fray,  these  edges  may  be  left  raw. 
Raw  edges  are  left  on  many  French  petticoats. 

9.  Turn  to  the  right  side  and  stitch  the  scal- 
lops a  second  time. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Cut  off  the  length  of  the  material. 

2.  Cut  off  the  front  gore,  the  back  gore  and  the 
band,  from  one  length. 

3.  Cut  the  other  length  into  two  or  four  gores, 
depending  on  the  material. 

4.  Pin  the  side  gores  to  the  back  gore. 


PETTICOATS  123 

5.  Stitch  the  seams. 

6.  Make  the  placket. 

7.  See  that  the  petticoat  is  cut  out  around  the 
front,  and  run  two  gathering  threads  at  the  top. 

8.  Put  on  the  band. 

9.  Make  the  bottom  of  the  petticoat  even  and  fin- 
ish the  bottom. 

10.  Make  the  buttonhole. 

11.  Sew  on  the  button. 

12.  If  the  petticoat  has  a  ruffle  (a)  prepare  the  ruf- 
fle; (b)  prepare  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  for  the  ruf- 
fle; (c)  stitch  the  ruffle  to  the  petticoat. 

13.  Press  the  petticoat. 

14.  Fold  the  petticoat. 

15.  Compute  the  cost. 

16.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  Name  materials  that  are  suitable  for  petticoats. 

2.  What  measurements  are  required  for  a  petti- 
coat? 

3.  What  precautions  must  be  observed  when  mak- 
ing a  petticoat  ? 

4.  Name  different  ways  that  petticoats  may  be  fin- 
ished around  the  bottom.     Around  the  top. 

5.  What  seams  may  be  used  in  making  petticoats? 


CHAPTER  XII 

DRAWERS 

Drawers  are  divided  skirts.  The  materials 
used  in  nightgowns,  such  as  muslin,  cambric, 
longcloth,  cotton  crepe,  nainsook,  etc.,  may  be 
used  for  drawers. 

Drawers  are  made  in  various  ways.  They 
may  be  open  or  closed,  wide  or  narrow,  or  may 
be  made  in  bloomer  fashion,  but  no  matter  which 
style  is  chosen,  the  fundamental  principles  of 
drafting  the  pattern  are  always  the  same. 

The  legs  are  finished  in  many  different  ways. 
Embroidery,  beading,  insertion,  and  crochet 
edges  are  greatly  used.  Very  often  drawers  are 
finished  with  a  plain  hem  only. 

The  top  of  the  drawers  is  finished  with  a 
straight  or  a  fitted  belt.  Sometimes  it  is  fin- 
ished with  a  plain  hem.  This  may  be  made  of 
an  applied  facing  which  may  be  cut  on  the 
straight  or  on  the  bias  of  the  material.  A  rub- 
ber is  often  drawn  through  this  hem.  Rubber 
should  not  be  used  in  white  goods  as  the  boiling 
necessary  in  laundering  will  spoil  it. 

124 


DRAWERS  125 

Required  Measurements 

1.  The  length  should  be  taken  from  the  waist- 
line to  the  knee.  The  same  length  is  obtained 
by  measuring  from  the  center  of  the  back  along 
the  extended  arm  to  the  wrist. 


Fin.    44. — CLOSED   DRAWERS   OR   "BLOOMERS" 
A,   Extended   part   of  band,  turned   under   to   reinforce   the 
end;    B,  folded   placket  over  back   part   of  drawers;    C,   rein 
forcing  seat:    D,  ruffle  extended   from  length   of  drawers;    E, 
drawers  gather  at  the  knee  by  means  of  a  linen  tape. 

2.  The  hip  measure  should  be  taken  loosely 
over  the  largest  part  of  the  hips.  The  bust 
measure  may  be  used  instead  of  the  hip  meas- 
ure. The  width  of  each  leg  at  the  seat  line 
should  be  nearly  equal  to  the  bust  measure. 


126  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

3.  The  waist  measure  should  also  be  taken 
loosely. 

4.  The  knee  measure  must  be  taken  if  a  band 
is  used. 


FIG.  45. — OPEN  DRAWERS 

A,  Two  darts  take  in  the  fullness  in  the  front;  B,  edge  of 
drawers  faced  with  garment  bias  facing;  C,  ruffle  sewed  on 
with  a  receiving  tuck. 

Standard  Measurements 

Hip  measure  40",  waist  measure  26",  length 
23". 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  paper  36"  wide  and  30" 
long. 


DRAWERS  127 

2.  Fold  this  paper  lengthwise  through  the 
center  and  place  it  lengthwise,  with  the  fold  at 
your  left  and  the  cut  edge  at  your  right. 
AB     Mark  A  on  the  upper  left-hand  corner  and 
on  the  folded  edge  of  the  paper. 


FIG.  46. — CLOSED  DRAWERS 

A,    Flat   fell   seam;    B,    French    seam;    f,    shaped   hem:    D, 
continuous  placket 

Mark  B  on  the  lower  left-hand  corner.  The 
fold  AB  represents  the  hip  line  of  the  draw- 
ers on  the  straight  and  fold  of  the  material. 

AC  Mark  AC  on  the  upper  cut  edge  and  BD 
on  the  lower  cut  edge. 

AE  From  A  on  the  AB  line,  measure  4%" 
and  locate  E. 

EF  From  E,  draw  a  line  14  of  the  entire  hip 
measure  plus  2",  and  locate  F. 


128 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


FG  From  F,  draw  a  line  11"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  CD  line,  and  locate  G.  This  line  in- 
dicates the  crotch,  or  the  side  line. 


FIG.  47. — DRAFT  OF  DRAWERS 


EH     From  E  on  the  AB  line,  draw  a  line  17" 
long  and  locate  H. 


DRAWEES  129 

HI    From  H,  draw  a  line  18"  long-  and  parallel 

to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  I.     This  line 

indicates  the  seat  line  and  the  width  of  the 

drawers. 
EB     From  E,  draw  a  line  23"  long,  and  locate 

J.     This   indicates   the   hip   line   and  the 

length  of  the  drawers. 
JK     From  J,  draw  a  line  12"  or  1.5"  long  and 

parallel  to  the  AC  line  and  locate  K.     The 

width  of  the  bottom  is  optional  as  it  de- 
pends on  the  type  of  drawers. 
IK     Connect  I  and  K  by  a  straight  line.     Find 

the  middle  between  I  and  K,  and  locate  L. 
LR     Connect  I  and  K  again,  curving  this  line 

1/2"  at  L. 
FM     From  F  on  the  FG  line,  measure  down  1", 

and  locate  M. 
MN     From  M,  measure  1"  parallel  to  the  AC 

line,  and  locate  N. 
NF     Connect    N    and    E    by    a    straight   line. 

Mark  this  line  " front  waistline. " 
FO     From  F,  draw  a  line  upward  4"  long  and 

parallel  to  the  CD  line,  and  locate  O. 
OE     Connect  0  and  E  by  a  straight  line  and 

mark  this  line  "back  waistline." 
01     Connect  0  and  I  by  a  straight  line.     This 

line  forms  the  center  back  seam. 
IP     From  I,  measure  2y2"  on  the  IH  line,  and 

locate  P. 


130  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

PP2  From  P  measure  2y2"  upward  parallel 
to  the  CD  line,  and  locate  P2. 

IN  Connect  N  and  I  by  a  curved  line,  curving 
it  at  the  point  P2.  (See  Fig.  47.)  To  ob- 
tain this  line  use  the  curve  of  your  chart 
which  is  marked  neck  curve. 

EX  From  E  on  the  AB  line,  draw  a  line  8" 
long,  and  locate  X.  This  line  indicates  the 
place  for  the  placket. 

KR  If  the  drawers  are  to  be  finished  with  a 
hem  then  turn  the  hem  on  the  JK  line  on  to 
the  pattern  and  cut  the  point  R  to  follow 
the  line  KLL  (See  Figs.  46  c  and  47.) 

JSS  If  the  drawers  are  to  be  open  and 
rounded  at  the  lower  hip  line  measure  on 
each  edge  from  J  2y>"  and  draw  a  diagonal 
of  V  from  the  corner  J,  and  locate  V. 

SVS     Connect  SVS  by  a  curved  line. 

OW  From  Ot  draw  a  line  2"  long  and  locate 
W,  Connect  W  and  0  by  a  straight  line. 

WI     Connect  WI  by  a  straight  line.     This  will 

allow  more  fullness  for  open  drawers. 
Cut  out  the  pattern :     (See  Fig.  47.) 

1.  Along  the  back  waistline  marked  EO. 

2.  Around  the  back  seam  01. 

3.  Around  the  curved  leg  ILK. 

4.  Around  the  bottom  KJ. 
Unfold  the  paper  and  then  cut: 

1.  The  side  seam  IN. 


DRAWERS  131 

2.  The  front  waistline  NE. 

Parts  of  the  closed  drawers:  The  drawers 
consist  of  two  pieces  for  the  legs,  one  piece  of 
material  19"  by  2"  for  the  front  belt,  one  piece 
of  material  13"  by  2"  for  the  back  belt,  two 
pieces  of  material  17"  by  2"  for  the  plackets, 
four  pieces  of  material  for  reinforcing  the 
crotch.  Each  piece  forms  14  of  a  circle  and 
measures  4i/>"  at  the  two  longer  edges  and  21//' 
through  the  middle. 

Placing  the  pattern  on  the  material  and  cut- 
ting out  the  drawers:  (See  Fig.  48).  The  fin- 
ish for  the  bottom  of  the  drawers  must  be  de- 
cided upon  before  the  pattern  is  placed  on  the 
material.  Decide  if  the  drawers  should  be  fin- 
ished with  a  hem,  a  ruffle,  lace  or  embroidery. 
If  there  is  to  be  a  ruffle  determine  whether  it  is 
to  be  of  a  different  or  of  the  same  material. 
(See  Figs.  44,  45.)  Be  sure  of  the  finished 
length  before  the  material  is  cut  out  and 
whether  you  must  cut  off,  or  allow  on  the  pat- 
tern. 

If  the  instructions  are  carefully  followed  for 
cutting  out,  all  the  pieces  that  are  required  for 
the  drawers  will  be  obtained  from  the  amount 
stated  above. 

Making  of  the  Closed  Drawers 

1.  Join  the  two  front  and  the  two  back  pieces 


132 


GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 


with  either  a  French  seam  or  a  flat  fell  seam. 
If  a  flat  fell  seam  is  made,  care  should  be  taken 


DRAWEES  133 

that  the  fell  of  each  back  and  front  seam  turns 
over  to  the  same  side.  When  joined  together 
this  seam  should  look  like  one  continuous  seam. 
2.  The  inner  leg  seam  may  also  be  joined  with 
a  flat  fell  or  a  French  seam.  Take  the  back  and 
the  front  pieces  and  pin  them  together  carefully 
at  the  center  seam.  From  this  center,  pin  each 
one  of  the  leg  seams.  This  will  help  to  make 
sure  that  the  center  seam  matches  exactly.  The 
seam,  whether  French  or  flat,  should  first  be 
pressed  open  as  carefully  as  possible  and  then 
made  as  flat  and  as  narrow  as  possible.  A  good 
width  is  %"  in  fine  material  and  never  more 
than  i/4"  in  coarser  materials. 

Plackets 

Cut  a  slit  8"  long  on  each  leg  on  the  hip  line 
and  on  the  fold  of  the  material. 

The  placket  may  be  made  as  a  continuous  fell 
and  bound  placket  or  as  a  continuous  bound 
placket.  The  latter  is  the  easier  to  make. 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  material  17"  long  and  2" 
wide  for  each  placket  and  place  the  right  side 
of  the  placket  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  material. 

2.  Stitch  these  together  with  a  plain  seam. 

3.  Open  this  seam  well  and  press  it  back  on 
the  placket. 

4.  Make  1/8  "  turn  and  lay  the  turned  edge  so 
as  to  cover  the  first  stitches. 


134  GARMENTS  FOB  GIRLS 

5.  Stitch  close  to  the  edge  of  the  turned  hem. 
The  second  stitching  will  be  on  the  right  side. 

6.  Crease  the  edges  of  the  placket  very  flat, 
and  at  the  bottom  of  the  slit  fold  the  placket 
over  on  the  back  part  of  the  drawers.     (The 
placket  now  will  form  a  facing.     See  Figs.  44  B, 
46  D.) 

7.  At  the  bottom  of  the  slit  make  two  rows 
of  stitching.     This  will  hold  the  placket  to  the 
back  and  will  reinforce  the  placket. 

8.  Pin  the  placket  along  the  side  back  to  the 
top  of  the  drawers. 

Stitch,  by  machine,  two  shirring  threads 
14"  apart  on  both  the  front  and  the  back  part 
of  the  drawers. 

The  Bands 

For  closed  drawers,  the  band  is  made  in  two 
parts.  The  back  part  is  shorter  than  the  front 
and  laps  over  the  front.  The  buttonholes  are 
cut  in  the  back  parts  and  the  buttons  are  sewed 
on  the  front  parts.  On  account  of  the  great 
strain  on  the  button  and  the  buttonholes,  and  in 
order  to  strengthen  the  materials,  the  bands  are 
reinforced  by  doubling  the  material  at  these 
points.  (See  Figs.  44,  46.) 


DRAWERS  135 

Finding  the  Length  of  the  Back  and  the  Front 

Part  of  the  Band 

To  find  out  accurately  the  length  of  the  back 
and  the  front  part  of  the  band : 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  paper  V  wide  and  VL>  the 
length  of  your  waist  measure. 

2.  Write  on  one  end  " center  back"  and  on 
the  other  end  "center  front." 

3.  Fold  this  in  the  middle  and  make  a  pen- 
cil mark  at  that  point.     Each  part  will -indicate 
%  of  your  entire  waist  measure. 

4.  From  the  pencil  mark,  measure  over  %" 
towards  the  center  back  and  cut  the  paper.     The 
part  marked  "center  back"  indicates  the  size 
of  l/2  the  back  band.     The  part  marked  "center 
front"  indicates  one-half  the  front  band. 

Cutting  Parts  of  the  Band 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  material  2"  wide  and  twice 
the  length  of  the  back  part  of  the  band,  plus 
1",  which  will  be  turned  under  to  reinforce  the 
band. 

2.  Crease  these  turn  well  and  put  in  a  con- 
trasting thread  to  mark  the  center  of  the  back. 

3.  Take  the  piece  marked  "center  front." 
Cut  another  piece  of  material  2"  wide,  allow  V 
on  each  end  for  the  placket  which  extends  along 
the  front,  and  allow  V  more  for  the  reinforcing 
of  the  band.     A  total  of  4"  must  then  be  added 


136  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

to  the  length  of  the  piece  of  paper  marked  * '  cen- 
ter front/' 

4.  At  each  end  of  the  band  turn  under  the 
material  allowed  for  strengthening  the  ends. 
Crease  these  turns  well  and  mark  with  a  con- 
trasting thread  the  "center  front." 

Sewing  the  Band  to  the  Drawers 

1.  Take  the  back  part  of  the  band  and  place 
it  with  the  right  side  to  the  wrong  side  of  the 
drawers. 

2.  Pin  the  place  marked  for  the  center  back 
to  the  seam  of  the  center  back  of  the  drawers. 

3.  Pin  each  end  of  the  drawers    (the  end 
where  the  placket  faces  the  drawers)  exactly  at 
the  end  of  the  band. 

4.  Draw  up  the  shirr  threads  in  the  drawers 
to  the  same  lengths  as  the  band. 

5.  Put  a  pin  at  each  end  of  the  drawers  and 
wind  the  shirr  threads  around  them.     This  will 
hold  the  thread  in  place. 

6.  Adjust  the  gathers.     Put  most  of  the  full- 
ness at  the  center.     There  should  be  but  little 
fullness  for  I1/*/'  from  each  end. 

7.  Pin  or  baste  the  drawers  carefully  to  the 
band. 

8.  Stitch  the  band  and  the  drawers  together 
with  a  plain  seam. 


DRAWERS  137 

9.  Open  this  seam  well  and  press  it  back  on 
the  belt. 

10.  Turn  the  edge  under  on  the  long  cut  edge 
of  the  band. 

11.  Place  this  turned  edge  so  as  to  cover  the 
raw  edges  and  the  first  stitching  of  the  band 
and  pin  or  baste  it  down. 

12.  Make  sure  that  the  corners  are  square  and 
even  and  finish  each  short  end  with  an  overhand 
stitch. 

13.  Stitch  very  close  to  the  turned  edge.     The 
last  stitching  is  thus  made  on  the  right  side. 

14.  Take  the  front  part  of  the  band  and  re- 
peat as  you  have  done  for  the  back  with  this 
exception — the  shirring  should  be  pushed  to- 
ward the  edges  and  away  from  the  center. 

FITTED  BAND 
Required  Measurements 

The  waist  measure,  the  depth  of  the  band. 

Standard  Measurements 

Waist  measure  27",  depth  of  the  band  3". 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

Cut  a  piece  of  paper  13"  by  13"  and  mark  the 
corners  A,  B,  C,  and  I). 
AB  represents  the  center  front. 
A'E     From  A'  measure  one-third  of  the  entire 
waist  measure  on  the  AB  line,  and  locate  E. 


138 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


A'F  From  A'  measure  on  a  line  parallel  to 
the  AC  line  the  same  distance  as  A'E, 
minus  %"  and  locate  F. 

A'G  From  A'  on  the  AB  line  measure  %",  and 
A C 


Fiu.  45). — FITTED  BAND 


locate  G.     Put  the  point  of  the  compass  at 
G  and  swing  it  along  the  EF  line. 
El    From  E  on  the  AB  line  measure  3",  and 
locate  I. 


DRAWERS  139 

IH     Place  one  point  of  the  compass  on  G  and 

from  G  as  a  center  describe  a  curve  until  it 

touches  the  AC  line. 
HK     To  obtain  a  little  more  fullness  in  the 

back  extend  the  line  from  H  %",  and  locate 

K. 
FK     Connect  F  and  K  by  a  straight  line. 

Cutting  Out  the  Pattern 

Cut  out  the  pattern  on  the  line  EF,  FK,  and 
IHK. 

Mark  IE  "center  front "  and  FH  "center 
back." 

Making  of  the  Fitted  Band 

This  band  may  be  closed  in  the  back  or  in  the 
front.  The  closing  depends  on  the  garment  for 
which  it  is  made.  Ordinarily  the  fitted  band  is 
made  of  double  material  but  single  material  may 
also  be  used.  The  "peplum"  of  shirt  waist 
and  corset  cover  is  cut  after  this  pattern  and 
is  made  of  single  material.  Bands  for  under- 
wear are  ordinarily  made  of  double  material  bo- 
cause  they  are  stronger  and  are  more  quickly 
and  easily  made. 

Buttons  and  Buttonholes 

A  fan  and  barred  buttonhole  should  be  made 
at  each  end  of  the  back  part  of  the  band.  The 
buttons  are  sewed  to  the  front  part. 


140  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Finishing  the  Lower  Edge  of  the  Drawers 

The  lower  edge  of  the  drawers  may  be  fin- 
ished with  a  plain  hem,  lace,  embroidery,  or 
ruffle.  For  fullness  of  the  ruffle,  1%  times  the 
width  of  the  drawers  is  generally  used.  (See 
Figs.  44,  45,  50.)  Sometimes  the  ruffle  is  made 
of  tho  same  material  and  then  the  full  width  on 


Fie.  50. — "RUFFLE  ATTACHED  WITH  LACE 

the  material  on  the  JK  line  (see  Figs.  44  E,  47) 
is  used.  In  this  case,  stitch  two  gathering 
threads  i/4"  apart,  along  the  KJ  line.  Prepare 
a  double  band  i/L>"  or  %"  wide  and  the  width 
of  the  knee.  Pin  the  middle  of  the  band  to 
the  right  side  of  the  hip  line  of  the  drawers 


DRAWERS  141 

and  the  seam  of  the  band  to  the.  side  seam  of 
the  drawers.  Draw  up  gathering  threads  to 
fit  this  band.  Pin  or  baste  this  band  evenly 
and  securely  to  the  drawers  and  stitch  each 
edge  down  by  machine.  Sometimes  if  a  rub- 
ber or  a  tape  is  run  through,  this  band  is 
stitched  around  the  full  width  of  the  drawers 
and  the  rubber  or  tape  will  draw  up  the  full- 
ness and  make  it  fit  around  the  knee.  The  edge 
of  the  ruffle  may  be  finished  with  a  crocheted  or 
embroidered  scallop,  with  a  lace  edge,  or  with 
a  plain  narrow  hem.  If  a  plain  hem  is  used, 
it  should  be  cut  to  fit  the  drawers.  (See  Fig. 
44  D.) 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Draft  the  pattern. 

2.  Place  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

3.  Cut  out  the  material. 

4.  Reinforce  the  front  and  back  part  of  the  draw- 
ers. 

5.  Sew  the  front  parts  together. 

6.  Sew  the  back  parts  together. 

7.  Sew  up  the  inner  leg  seam. 

8.  Cut  and  make  the  placket. 

9.  Prepare  the  band  for  the  front  and  back. 

10.  Sew  the  band  to  the  back  part  of  the  drawers. 

11.  Sew  the  band  to  the  front  part  of  the  drawers. 

12.  Finish  the  bottom  of  the  drawers. 


142  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

QUESTIONS 

1.  Name  different  materials  suitable  for  drawers. 

2.  How  may  drawers  be  finished  around  the  bot- 
tom? 

3.  How  may  drawers  be  finished  around  the  top  f 

4.  Should  rubber  be  used  in  rnuslin  drawers? 

5.  What  trimming  may  be  used  for  the  bottom  of 
the  drawers? 

6.  Name  the  different  types  of  drawers. 

7.  In  what  do  they  differ? 

8.  What  seams  are  used  in  the  making  of  draw- 
ers? 


CHAPTER  XIII 

SKIRTS 

Skirts  are  made  of  cotton,  linen,  woolen,  or 
silk  material.  These  materials  vary  greatly  in 
weave,  finish  and  width. 

In  selecting  the  material  for  any  skirt  the 
essential  points  to  be  considered  are : 

1.  On  what  occasion  is  the  garment  to  be 
worn. 

2.  What  amount  of  wear  it  will  stand. 

3.  What  length  of  time  it  is  intended  to  be 
worn. 

4.  What  are  the  remodeling  qualities  of  the 
goods. 

5.  How  the  goods  may  be  cut  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage. 

The  skirt  shown  in  Fig.  51  is  made  of  cot- 
ton material  1  yard  wide.  This  width  was 
chosen  because  the  skirt  can  be  cut  out  with 
almost  no  waste.  Any  cotton,  linen,  woolen,  or 
mixed  material  may  be  used. 

One  must  be  careful  when  placing  the  pattern 
on  the  material  to  observe : 

1.  Whether  the  material  has  a  right  or  a 
wrong  side. 

143 


144  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Whether    the   material   has    an   up   and 
down,  or  whether  a  nap. 

3.  Whether  there  is  a  distinctive  pattern  to 
be  matched. 


FIG.  51. — BACK  VIEW  OF  SKIBT 

A,  Two  gatherings  at  the  normal  waist  line  and  one  at  the 
high  waist  line  will  keep  the  fullness  in  place;  B,  C,  side  seam 
should  follow  the  plumb  line;  D,  back  gores  joined  with  a 
French  side. 

Figure  52  shows  how  to  place  the  pattern  on 
the  material  if  it  does  not  have  a  right  or  a 
wrong  side  or  an  up  and  down. 


SKIRTS 


145 


Figure  53  shows  how  to  make  a  skirt  with  two 
gores  and  how  to  place  the  pattern  on  the  ma- 
terial if  it  has  a  right  and  a  wrong  side  and  an 
up  and  down. 

A C 

\ 


FIG.  52. — PATTERN  PLACED  ON  MATERIAL  WHICH  HAS  NO  RIGHT 
OR  WRONG  SIDE  NOR  AN  UP  AND  DOWN 

Required  Measurements 

The  measurements  needed  for  a  skirt  are: 
the  waist  measure,  the  hip  measure,  the  front 
length,  the  side  length,  the  back  length.  (See 
Fig.  5.) 

The  waist  measure  should  be  taken  over  the 
corset  cover.  It  should  be  the  size  of  the  belt. 

The  hip  measure  is  taken  by  standing  behind 


146 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


the  person  to  be  measured  and  placing  the  tape 
line  horizontally  around  the  hips  and  about  7" 


FIG.  53. — PATTERN  PLACED  ON  MATERIAL  WHICH  HAS  A  RIGHT 
AND  A  WRONG  SIDE  AND  AN  UP  AND  DOWN 


SKIRTS  147 

from  the  waistline.     This  measure  should  be 
taken  quite  loosely. 

The  length  should  be  measured  from  the 
waistline  to  the  floor.  One  should  make  sure 
that  the  line  is  horizontal  around  the  waist; 
otherwise  it  will  be  impossible  to  get  an  even 
length.  All  the  lengths  (the  front,  the  side,  and 
the  back  lengths)  should  be  taken  from  the 
waist  to  the  floor.  Then  there  should  be  de- 
ducted from  one  length  the  number  of  inches 
that  one  desires  the  skirt  to  be  from  the  floor. 
For  example,  if  the  measurement  from  the  waist 
to  the  floor  is  42"  and  the  skirt  is  to  be  10"  from 
the  floor  the  front  length  should  be  32".  The 
side  and  back  lengths  should  be  measured  ac- 
cordingly. 

Standard  Measurements 

Waist  measure  26",  hip  measure  40",  front 
length  32",  side  length  33",  back  length  33". 

The  Drafting  of  the  Pattern  (See  Fig.  54). 

Cut  a  piece  of  paper  36"  wide  and  about  5" 
longer  than  the  actual  length  of  the  skirt  de- 
sired. The  average  length  at  the  present  time 
is  35".  The  paper  should,  then,  be  about  40" 
long  and  36"  wide.  Take  this  paper  and  place 
it  with  the  width,  horizontally  in  front  of  you, 
and  mark  the  corners  A,  B,  C,  and  D. 


148 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


AC  represents  the  width  of  the  paper  and  the 

woof  of  the  material. 
AB  represents  the  length  of  the  paper  and  the 

straight  of  the  goods. 


FIG.  54. — DRAFT  FOR  SKIRT 


AL  From  A  on  the  AC  line  measure  one-half 
of  the  hip  measure,  and  locate  L. 

AM  On  the  AC  line  from  A,  measure  a  line 
the  length  of  one-fourth  of  the  entire  waist 


SKIRTS  149 

measure  and  to  this  add  %"  and  mark  that 
point  M  For  instance,  if  the  waist  meas- 
ure is  26",  then  y±  of  it  is  6V£"  and  if  you 
add  %"  to  this  amount  you  have  T1/^".  It 
is  the  length  of  the  line  thus  obtained,  or 
7l/i",  that  you  must  use  in  measuring  on 
the  AC  line  to  locate  M. 

AE  From  A  on  the  AB  line  measure  a  line  3" 
long,  and  locate  E.  (The  distance  between 
A  and  E  is  always  equal  to  one-tenth  of  one- 
half  of  the  width  of  the  bottom  of  the  skirt.) 

EF  From  E  draw  a  line  1%"  long  and  parallel 
to  AM,  and  locate  F. 

MF     Connect  M  and  F  by  a  straight  line. 

FG  From  the  point  F  on  the  M'E  line,  locate 
a  point  G  which  should  measure  as  far  from 
Fas  the  difference  between  the  front  length 
and  the  side  length  of  the  skirt.  For  ex- 
ample, suppose  the  front  length  is  30",  the 
side  length  31".  The  difference  will  be  one 
inch. 

EGL  Connect  E  and  G  by  a  slightly  curved 
line  and  then  connect  G  and  L  by  a  straight 
line.  Mark  this  line  "  waistline. " 

EB     From  E  on  the  center  front  line  AB,  meas- 
ure the  front  length  of  the  skirt,  and  locate 
K. 
From  the  waistline  G  measure  down  the  side 

length.     Place  the  end  of  the  yardstick  on  the 


150  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

waistline.  Let  the  other  end  come  toward  the 
bottom  of  the  skirt.  Mark  dots  with  a  pencil 
at  the  point  which  represents  the  length  of  the 
skirt.  Move  the  yardstick  (keeping  it  on  the 
waistline)  so  that  a  series  of  dots  will  mark  the 
bottom  of  the  skirt.  Place  these  dots  at  inter- 
vals of  2".  To  obtain  the  desired  width  take  a 
tapeline  and  pin  this  around  the  bottom.  This 
will  help  you  to  obtain  a  good  curve.  When 
the  32"  point  is  reached  (on  the  width  of  one- 
half  of  the  skirt)  place  the  yardstick  again  at 
L  and  make  sure  that  the  last  dot  is  33"  (the 
length  of  the  skirt)  from  the  top.  (See  Fig. 
52.)  Always  be  sure  that  half  of  the  width  of 
the  skirt  KJ  (28",  32",  36",  or  wider)  inter- 
sects at  the  back  with  the  length  of  the  skirt 
LJ. 

To  prevent  the  skirt  from  having  points  or 
scallops  in  front  and  in  the  back,  place  the  chart, 
or  a  right-angled  corner,  on  the  front  KF  and 
also  on  the  back  JL.  At  the  corner  K  and  the 
corner  J,  draw  a  line  3"  long.  Join  the  curve 
that  represents  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  to  these 
straight  lines. 

Do  not  remove  the  tapeline  until  you  are  sure 

that  the  length  is  perfectly  even  and  that  you 

have'a  good  slightly  curved  line  at  the  bottom. 

KI    Find  the  center  of  the  bottom  (which  in 

this  case  is  16"),  and  locate  I. 


SKIRTS  151 

10  On  the  IK  line  measure  iy2"  from  I,  and 
locate  0.  This  point  is  placed  a  little 
nearer  to  the  front  so  that  the  side  seam 
may  hang  perfectly  straight.  The  seams 
in  the  skirts  should  always  follow  the  plumb 
line. 

OG  Connect  0  and  Gr  by  a  straight  line.  This 
line  indicates  the  side  seam.  Mark: 

1.  The  front  line  EK  with  the  words  "  cen- 
ter front  straight  of  the  material. " 

2.  The  back  line  LJ  "center  back,  straight 
of  the  material." 

3.  On  each  side  of  the  side  seams  OJ  "bias." 

4.  Mark  connecting  points  instead  of  notches, 
one  at  the  center  front,  two  at  the  side  seams, 
and  three  at  the  back.     (See  Fig.  52.) 

5.  Mark  full  name  on  each  gore. 

Cutting  Out  the  Paper  Pattern 

1.  Cut  out  along  the  waistline  EGL. 

2.  Cut  along  the  center  back  LJ. 

3.  Cut  the  bottom  line  JIOK. 

4.  Divide  the  pattern  on  the  line  OG. 

Required  Material 

Two  side  lengths  plus  7"  for  each 
length  of  36"  material  are  sufficient  for 
this  skirt.  These  additional  inches  al- 
low 3"  for  a  hem  and  2"  for  a  high 
waistline.  For  instance,  if  the  hip 


152 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


length  measures  32",  there  should  be 
added  3"  for  a  hem  and  2"  for  a  high 
waist,  or  a  total  length  of  37"  or  2 
yards  and  2"  of  36"  material  will  be 
needed  to  make  a  skirt  and  a  belt  as 
shown  in  Fig.  52. 

In  addition,  %  of  a  yard  of  belting,  2 
white  hooks  and  eyes  No.  2,  2  snaps  No. 
1,  3  yards  of  white  bias  binding  (if  the 
hem  is  finished  with  a  binding),  1  spool 
No.  70  white  thread  for  machine  stitch- 
ing, 1  spool  No.  40  white  thread  for 
sewing  on  the  hooks  and  eyes,  No.  6 
"between"  needles,  tapeline.  Make  a 
gauge  with  3",  2"  and  1"  plainly  marked 
upon  it.  (See  Fig.  55.) 


-*•-/ 

v 

*'/" 

3/2 

N                   NAME 

«  2"  — 

FIG.  55. — MAKING  A  GAUGE 

Preparing  the  Material  for  Putting  on  the  Pat- 
tern 

1.  See  that  the  material  is  perfectly  smooth. 
If  necessary,  press  it  with  a  hot  iron  so  that  it 
lies  perfectly  flat. 


SKIRTS  153 

2.  If  there  are  just  two  lengths  fold  them 
with  the  right  side  and  the  selvages  together. 

3.  Be  sure  to  place  the  cut  edges  together  at 
the  bottom  and  make  the  selvages  meet. 

4.  Pin  the  selvages  together.     Put  the  pins 
at  right  angles. 

Placing  the  Pattern  on  the  Material 

No  seams  are  allowed  on  this  pattern.     See 
Fig.  52. 

1.  Take  the  front  pattern  marked  "  center 
front,  straight  of  the  material "  and  place  it  on 
the  material  3"  from  the  cut  edge  at  the  bot- 
tom and  2"  from  the  selvage  at  the  front.     Use 
the  gauge  where  3",  2"  and  1"  are  marked  upon 
it. 

2.  Place  the  back  gore  with  the  words  ' '  cen- 
ter back,  straight  of  the  material "  4"  from  the 
other  selvage  edge.     The  widest  part  of  this 
gore  should  be  3",  or  the  width  of  the  hem,  from 
the  folded  edge  of  the  cloth.     Pin  this  pattern 
to  the  cloth  securely  and  evenly. 

Cutting  Out  the  Skirt 

1.  Cut  straight  along  the  edge  of  the  pattern 
marked  " center  back/'     A  double  strip  of  3y2" 
will  be  left.     Use  this  for  a  belt. 

2.  With  the  gauge,  measure  1"  from  each 
edge    of   the   paper   pattern   marked    "bias." 


154  GARMENTS  FOE  GIELS 

Connect  these  two  points  by  a  line  drawn  with 
a  ruler. 

3.  Cut  out  each  gore  on  these  lines. 
Do  not  remove  the  pattern  from  the  cloth. 

Outlining  and  Pressing  the  Seams  in  the  Skirts 

1.  Take  the  front  gore  and  crease  one  layer 
of  the  goods  very  carefully  over  every  edge  of 
the  pattern  around  the  waist,  the  front,  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  side  seam. 

2.  After  creasing  the  edges  carefully,  press 
them  with  a  hot  iron.     In  this  manner  every 
seam  and  stitching  line  will  be  marked.     (See 
Fig.  74  for  method  of  creasing  the  material  over 
the  pattern.) 

3.  Now  turn  the  pattern  to  the  opposite  side 
and  on  this  side  turn  over  the  extending  edge 
so  as  to  meet  the  other  turned  edge  very  ac- 
curately.    Press  this  firmly  with  a  hot  iron. 

4.  Take  the  back  gore  and  crease  and  press 
the  bottom  side  seam  and  waist.     Crease  and 
press  one  side  and  then,  turning  the  gore  on  the 
opposite  side,  crease  and  press  this. 

Putting  the  Skirt  Together 

1.  Remove  the  back  pattern  and  lay  one  gore 
flat  on  the  table  with  the  right  side  up  and  un- 
folded bias  seam  towards  the  sewer. 

2.  Remove  the  pattern  from  the  front  gores. 


SKIRTS  155 

Take  one  front  piece  with  the  right  side  up,  lay 
the  pressed  side  seam  directly  over  the  pressed 
seam  of  the  back  gore. 

3.  Put  a  pin  at  the  waistline.     Be  sure  that 
the  waistline  is  even.     Then  put  a  pin  at  the 
crease  marked  for  the  hem  at  the  bottom.     Also 
be  sure  that  the  connecting  points  meet  on  a 
straight  line.     Next  put  several  pins  carefully 
along  the  side  seam.     Make  sure  that  the  lines 
and  connecting  points  meet  accurately. 

4.  Take  the  gores  from  the  left  side  and  re- 
peat the  process. 

Stitching  the  Skirt 

I.  Side  Seams 

1.  When  the  two  sides  are  pinned  together, 
carefully  stitch  the  side  seam  on  the  right  side. 
Use  the  presser  foot  as  a  guide  and  stitch  very 
close  to  the  edge. 

2.  Join  the  two  back  gores  either  with  a 
French  seam  or  a  French  fell. 

II.  Fr^nt 

1.  On  the  right  side  front  gore,  from  the 
crease  which  has  been  pressed  to  allow  for  2" 
and  which  indicates  the  center  front,  turn  over 
V  all  along  the  selvage  on  the  wrong  side,  and 
press  this  well.     This  turn  will  form  the  front 
pleat.     (See  Fig.  56  C.) 

2.  Now  take  the  two  front  gores  and  lay 


156  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

the  right  side  over  the  left  side  so  that  the  two 
creases  which  indicate  the  "center  front "  are 
directly  opposite  each  other. 


FIG.  56. — DETAIL  OF  FRONT  CLOSING  OF  SKIRT 
A,   Skirt  turned   over  the  belt;    B.  skirt  finished  with  bias 
binding;    C,   front   pleat   stitched   back    1";    D,    placket  facing 
made  by  folding  over  the  extended  piece;  E,  method  of  sewing 
on  fastenings. 

3.  Pin  the  two  together.     Begin  near  the 
bottom  at  the  pressed  seam  line. 


SKIETS  157 

4.  Pin  these  seams  together.     Leave  about 
12"  from  the  front  for  the  front  opening.     ( See 
Fig.  56  C,  D.) 

5.  Be  sure  that  the  selvage  edge  of  the  ex- 
tended front  pleat  comes  a  little  under  the  line 
so  that  the  stitching  will  catch  the  turned  edge. 

6.  Stitch   the   two   fronts   together   on   the 
marked  center  front  line  near  the  12"  allowed 
for  the  opening,  break  the  thread  in  the  bobbin 
or  shuttle,   slip  the   one   side  away   from  the 
presser  foot,   and   continue   to   stitch   the   re- 
mainder of  the  front.     (This  avoids  the  break- 
ing of  the  upper  thread.) 

7.  Shirr   by   machine   2   gathering   threads 
around  the  marked  waistline.     To  do  this: 

(a)  Adjust  to  the  longest  stitch  the  machine 
will  allow. 

(b)  Use  a  coarse  cotton  on  the  machine  as 
a  fine  thread  will  break  too  easily  in  drawing 
it  up. 

(c)  Loosen  either  the  upper  or  the  lower  ten- 
sion. 
III.     Hem 

Pin  up  the  hem  all  around  the  pressed  line. 
Put  pins  about  2"  from  the  edge  and  about  5" 
or  6"  apart. 

Preparing  the  Belt 

1.  Cut  off  a  belt  about  4"  to  6"  longer  than 
the  actual  waist  measure. 


158  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Fold  it  into  two  parts.     Mark  the  middle 
with  a  pencil  or  a  contrasting  thread.     This  will 
indicate  the  center  back. 

3.  On  each  side  from  this  center  back  mark 
%  of  the  waist  measure.     Mark  these  also  with 
a  pencil  line  or  with  a  contrasting  thread. 

4.  Find  the  point  where  the  side  seam  should 
come.     To  determine  this  point,  measure  %  of 
the  waist  measure  minus  %",  starting  at  the 
center  back.     The  point  thus  obtained  is  called 
the  " balance  point/'  because  at  this  point  the 
side  seam  of  the  skirt  meets  the  underarm  seam 
of  the  waist  and  later  on,  in  dressmaking,  it  is 
the  starting  point  from  which  many  measures 
are  tested. 

Putting  the  Skirt  on  the  Belt 

1.  If  the  belt  is  wide,  mark  a  line  through 
the  middle  with  a  pencil  or  a  contrasting 
thread. 

2.  Pin  the  gatherings  of  the   skirt  at  the 
seam  in  the  center  back,  directly  on  the  traced 
line  and  at  the  center  back  of  the  belt. 

3.  Pin  the  gathering  of  each  side  seam  on 
the  drawn  line  of  the  belt  and  on  the  * '  balance 
point. " 

4.  Pin  the  waistline  and  the  marked  center 
front  line  of  the  skirt  on  the  center  front  line 
of  the  belt. 


SKIRTS  159 

5.  The  two  side  fronts  should  fit  the  belt. 

6.  Draw  the  two  gathering  threads  up  in  the 
back  to  fit  the  belt. 

7.  Adjust  the  gathers  evenly.    Leave  1%" 
from  the  side  seam  with  very  little  or  no  full- 
ness and  pull  the  gathers  well  toward  the  mid- 
dle of  the  back. 

8.  Adjust  the  gathers  so  that  they  will  ra- 
diate. 

9.  Pin  the  skirt  carefully  to  the  belt.     Put 
the  pins  at  right  angles  and  close  together. 

Fitting  the  Skirt 

1.  See  that  the  belt  is  placed  horizontally 
around  the  waistline. 

2.  See  that  the   side   seams  hang  straight 
from  the  hips  down. 

3.  See  that  the  back  and  the  front  seams  are 
perfectly  straight. 

4.  Lap  the  right  side  of  the  belt  on  to  the 
left  side,  and  to  the  line  which  indicates  the  cen- 
ter front  of  the  belt. 

5.  See  that  both  edges  are  even  at  the  top. 

6.  If  the  measurements  have  been  taken  cor- 
rectly, the  skirt  will  fit  perfectly  and  will  not 
need  any  alteration. 

7.  However,  to  test  the  length,  place  a  yard- 
stick perpendicular  to  the  floor  with  the  be- 
ginning end  on  the  floor.     This  will  show  very 


160  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

quickly  and  accurately  whether  the  skirt  is  the 
same  distance  from  the  floor  all  around. 

Basting  the  Skirt  Over  the  Belt 

1.  Put  another  shirring  thread  at  the  top  of 
the  skirt.     This  will  help  to  regulate  the  full- 
ness. 

2.  With  shallow  overhand  stitches  baste  the 
skirt  over  the  belt. 

3.  At  the  left  side  front,  turn  the  selvage 
over  V  towards  the  left  side.     This  will  form 
the  facing  for  the  placket. 

4.  On  this  side  let  the  belting  extend  as  far 
as  the  turned  edge  of  the  placket;  then  turn  a 
y2"  hem.     Baste  the  skirt  to  the  belt  as  far  as 
this  point. 

Stitching  the  Skirt  to  the  Belt 

1.  Take  a  piece  of  bias  binding  y4"  wide  and 
lay  this  on  the  inside  14"  from  the  edge  of  the 
belt. 

2.  Pin  this  binding  all  along  the  inside  of 
the  belt. 

3.  Extend  the  binding  2"  beyond  the  end  of 
the  belt  to  make  sure  that  there  is  enough  left 
for  a  good  finish. 

4.  Stitch  very  close  to  the  upper  bias  edge 
of  the  belt. 

5.  Lift  up  the  loose  side  of  the  bias  edge  and 


SKIRTS 


161 


cut  the  extending  seam  of  the  skirt  till  this  is 
even  with  the  cut  edge  of  the  bias  binding. 


FIG.  57. — DETAIL  OF   FRONT  OF   SKIRT  CLOSED  WITH 
A  SLOT  SEAM 

A,  Slot  seam  formed  by  folding  over  both  edges  and  stitch 
ing  them   to   a   straight   piece;    B,   wrong   side  of   slot   seam; 
C,  inside  of  seam  finished  by  turning  the  cut  edge  once  and 
stitching  close  to  the  edge;   D,  stitching  the  skirt  on  the  belt 
without  bias  binding.     The  belt  -covers  the  edge  of  the  skirt. 


162  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

6.  Stitch  the  other  edge  of  the  binding  to 
the  belt. 

7.  Finish  the  ends  of  the  binding  by  turning 
them  under. 

8.  Sew  on  the  hooks  and  eyes. 

9.  Sew  snaps  on  the  placket. 

For  another  method  of  finishing  the  front  of 
a  skirt  and  sewing  the  skirt  to  the  belt,  see  Fig. 
57. 

Putting  in  the  Hem 

1.  If  you  are  sure  that  the  skirt  is  an  even 
length  all  around,  then  press  the  edge  of  the 
skirt  on  the  inside  with  a  hot  iron. 

2.  There  are  different  ways  of  finishing  the 
hem  of  the  skirt  and  these  different  ways  vary 
according  to  the   material  used  in  the   skirt. 
But  no  matter  what  hem  is  chosen,  a  gauge  must 
be  used,   and   the  hem  marked.     This   gauge, 
measuring  from  the  bottom  up,  must  mark  an 
even  width  all  around. 

3.  These  marks  may,  according  to  the  ma- 
terial, be  made,  with  either  a  hard  pencil,  tail- 
or's chalk,  or  the  tracing  wheel. 

I.     First  Method 

1.  After  the  width  of  the  hem  is  marked, 
turn  an  even  %"  turn  and  press  this  turn  with 
a  hot  iron.  This  turn  must  be  even,  as  an  un- 


SKIRTS  163 

even  turn  will  show  in  transparent  arid  in  semi- 
transparent  materials. 

2.  Pin  the  hem  down.  It  will  be  found  that 
there  is  more  fullness  in  the  hem  than  in  the 
skirt.  The  wider  the  skirt  is  and  the  deeper 
the  hem,  the  more  fullness  there  will  be 
found. 


FIG.  58. — DETAILS  FOR  HEMMING  A  SKIRT  RY  PLEATING  THE 

FULLNESS  AT  THE  TOP  BY  MEANS  or  A  BIAS  BINDING 
A,  Hem  pinned  and  bottom  edge  pressed;  B,  fullness  pleated 
and  pinned;  C,  width  of  hem  marked;  D,  gauge  marking  the 
line  for  the  binding;  E,  binding  pinned  to  hem  with  card- 
board between  hem  and  skirt;  F,  binding  stitched  to  the  hem; 
G,  binding  stitched  to  the  skirt. 

3.  Make  small,  even  pleats  in  the  hem  where 
the  fullness  is.     If  only  a  few  deep  pleats  are 
made  points  will  appear  at  the  lower  edge  of 
the  hem.     (See  Fig.  58  A.) 

4.  Be  sure,  when  you  make  these  pleats,  that 


164  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

they  do  not  form  scallops  near  the  stitching 
line.  Be  very  careful  to  keep  an  even  stitching 
line  around  the  hem. 

5.  Hold  the  hem  up  to  the  light.     Any  ir- 
regularity will  show. 


FIG.  59. — DETAILS  FOR  HEMMING  A  SKIRT  BY  SHIRRING  THE 

FULLNESS  AT  THE  TOP  BY  MEANS  OF  A  BIAS  BINDING 
A,  Gauge  marking  the  width  of  the  hem;  B,  shirr  thread 
made  by  machine  to  hold  the  fullness;  C,  cardboard  slipped 
between  hem  and  skirt:  D,  bias  binding  pinned  over  the  shirr 
thread;  E,  first  stitching  of  bias  binding;  F,  cutting  away 
surplus  material;  G,  stitching  binding  to  skirt. 

6.  Press  the  pleats  and  the  upper  edge  in 
the  hem. 

7.  Stitch  very  close  to  the  edge. 

II.     Second  Method 

This   method   is   adapted    especially   to   the 
needs  of  immature  students.     It  is  also  found 


SKIRTS  165 

satisfactory  for  skirts  made  of  heavy  material. 
When  an  even  width  is  marked  all  around  the 
hem: 

1.  Put  in  a  shirring  thread  by  machine.     To 
do  this,  adjust  the  longest  stitch  the  machine 
will  take.     Loosen  either  the  top  or  the  bottom 
tension.     Then  stitch  on  the  marked  line  of  the 
cut  edge  of  the  hem. 

2.  Pull  up  the  shirring  thread  so  that  the 
edge  of  the  hem  will  fit  the  skirt.     The  shirring 
thread  will  hold  in  a  great  deal  of  the  fullness, 
which   otherwise   would   have   to   be   put   into 
pleats. 

3.  Take   a   %"  bias   tape.     Lay   the  lower 
edge  of  the  binding  directly  over  the  stitching 
and  pin  to  the  hem  only.     Slip  a  cardboard  be- 
tween the  skirt  and  the  hem.     This  will  pre- 
vent pinning  the  hem  and  the  skirt  together. 

4.  When  the  binding  is  pinned  all  around, 
then  stitch  it,  close  to  the  edge,  on  to  the  hem. 

5.  Press  the  hem  and  the  binding.     Any  full- 
ness that  may  still  be  found  press   in   small 
pleats. 

6.  Stitch  the  upper  edge  of  the  binding  to 
the  skirt.     (See  Fig.  59.) 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Draft  the  pattern. 

2.  Fold  the  material. 


166  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

3.  Place  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

4.  Pin  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

5.  Cut  out  the  front  gore. 

6.  Cut  out  the  back  gore. 

7.  Press  the  seams  over  the  paper  pattern. 

8.  Pin  the  side  front  seams  over  the  side  back 
seams. 

9.  Stitch  the  side  seams. 

10.  Sew  up  the  center  back  seam. 

11.  Press  the  pleat  for  the  center  front. 

12.  Run  two   shirring   threads   around   the  waist- 
line by  machine. 

13.  Pin  up  the  hem  around  the  bottom. 

14.  Prepare  the  belt. 

15.  Pin  the  skirt  on  the  belt. 

16.  Draw  up  the  gathering  thread  to  fit  the  belt. 

17.  Fit  the  skirt. 

18.  Make  alterations,  if  necessary. 

19.  Baste  the  belt  to  the  skirt. 

20.  Finish  the  skirt  around  the  waistline. 

21.  Stitch  the  hem  around  the  bottom. 

22.  Sew  on  the  fastenings. 

23.  Press  the  skirt. 

24.  Figure  out  the  cost. 

25.  Figure  out  the  time. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

MIDDY  BLOUSE 

It  is  desirable  that  each  student  have  her  own 
pattern  fitted  to  her  so  that  she  may  be  certain 
that  the  neck,  the  shoulder  seams,  and  the  arm 
curve  do  not  need  any  alteration  after  the  blouse 
is  cut.  (Fig.  60.) 

With  the  help  of  a  perfect  fitting  shirt  waist 
pattern,  a  great  deal  of  time  and  material  are 
saved.  The  pleasure  of  making  garments,  when 
quick  and  satisfactory  results  are  obtained,  is 
greatly  enhanced  and  thrift  is  fostered. 

The  human  body  is  built  very  symmetrically, 
and  to  draft  a  perfect-fitting  pattern  for  a  middy 
blouse  or  a  shirt  waist  for  a  normal  figure  only 
two  measurements,  the  length  of  the  back  and 
the  bust  measure,  are  necessary.  A  figure  is 
normal  when  the  length  of  the  front  is  %"  more 
than  the  length  of  the  back.  The  relation  of 
all  the  other  measurements  needed  will  be  found 
in  the  following  fundamental  measurements. 
Standard  Measurements 

Length  of  back  15",  bust  39".     If  the  length 

167 


168  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

of  the  back  is  15",  then  the  length  of  the  front 
is  1/2"  more,  or  15%".  If  the  bust  measure  is 
39",  the  width  of  the  shoulders  across  the  back 


FIG.  60. — MIDDY   BLOUSE   AND   PETTICOAT  WITH 
PLEATED  RUFFLE 

is  one-third  of  the  bust  measure  or  13".  To 
this  is  added  1"  so  that  the  waist  may  be  loose. 
The  total  width  across  the  back  between  the 
shoulders  is  then  14",  which  is  the  measure- 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  169 

inent  across  the  back  4"  below  the  neck.  The 
chest  measure  4"  below  the  neck  is  V  more 
than  the  width  across  the  back,  or  15".  The 
underarm  measure  is  one-half  the  length  of 
the  back.  The  neck  measure  is  the  same  as 
the  back,  or  13".  The  waist  measure  is  two- 
thirds  of  the  bust,  or  25  1/3".  The  sleeve  meas- 
ure is  l1/^  times  the  length  of  the  back.  The 
hip  measure,  for  girls  up  to  18  years,  is  the 
same  as  the  bust  measure.  For  adults,  1/10 
of  the  bust  measure  is  added.  The  hip  meas- 
urement in  the  latter  case  is  about  42". 

A  loose  measurement  for  both  bust  and  hips 
is  advis'able. 

With  the  help  of  one  well-fitted  waist  pattern, 
all  the  other  garments  such  as  the  corset  cover, 
shirt  waist,  nightgown  with  sleeves,  one-piece 
dress,  envelope  chemise,  middy  blouse,  top  coat, 
and  later  on,  all  the  tight-fitting  garments  may 
be  made. 

The  middy  blouse  is  a  garment  which  is  worn 
a  great  deal  for  gymnasium  work,  and  hence 
must  be  very  loose  and  ample.  For  this  rea- 
son the  shirt-waist  measurements  are  enlarged 
as  follows : 

%"  is  added  to  one-half  the  width  of  the  back 
and  to  the  front,  14"  to  one-half  the  width  of 
the  back  and  the  front  neck,  and  2"  to  half  the 
bust  measurement. 


170  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


FIG.  61. — CHART  TO  FACILITATE  DRAFTING  OF  PATTERNS 


MIDDY  BLOUSE 


171 


Required  Material 

iy2  or  1%  yards  of  44"  material  is  re- 
quired for  a  middy,  or  2  yards  of  36" 
material.  This  is  sufficient  for  a  dou- 
ble 12"  collar,  long  sleeves,  and  cuffs. 


K 


WAIST  Line 


10' 


--— H 


12" 


B  O 

FIG.  62. — DRAFT  FOB  MIDDY  BLOUSE 

One-third  of  the  KO  line  is  equal  to  the  width  of  the  back 
neck  measure  EN,  to  the  slope  of  the  shoulder  NQ  and  added 
to  the  width  of  the  back  indicates  the  under  arm  seam  R. 

For  square  to  facilitate  the  drafting  of  pat- 
terns, see  Fig.  61. 


172  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Drafting  the  Middy  Pattern.,     (See  Fig.  62.) 

Cut  a  paper  22"  by  26".     Mark  the  corners 

A,  B,  C,  D.     The  line  AB  indicates  the  length 

of  the  middy  and  the  center  back.     The  line 

AC  indicates  one-half  of  the  width  of  the  back 

and  of  the  front. 

AE  From  A  draw  a  line  V  long  on  the  AB 
line,  and  locate  E. 

EF  From  E  draw  a  line  the  full  width  of  the 
paper,  parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  locate 
F  under  C.  Mark  this  line  "neck  line." 

EK  From  E  draw  a  line  33/4"  long  on  the  AB 
line,  and  locate  K. 

KL  From  K  draw  a  line  the  full  width  of  the 
paper  and  parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  lo- 
cate L  on  the  CD  line.  Mark  this  line 
"chest  line." 

El  From  E  measure  7%"  on  the  AB  line,  and 
locate  I. 

IJ  Draw  this  line  along  the  full  width  of  the 
paper  and  parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  lo- 
cate J  on  the  CD  line.  Mark  this  line 
"bust  line." 

EG  From  E  on  the  AB  line  draw  a  line  15" 
long,  and  locate  G. 

GH     Draw  this  line  again  the  full  width  of  the 
paper  and  parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  lo- 
cate H.     Mark  this  line  "  waistline. " 
The  principal  guide  and  construction  lines 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  173 

are  now  located  on  the  paper.     The  outline  of 
the  pattern  may  now  be  drawn. 

Back 

EM  From  E  on  the  EF  line  draw  a  line  2y2" 
long,  and  locate  M.  This  line  is  equal  to 
one-third  of  the  width  of  half  the  back. 

MN  From  M  draw  a  line  V2"  long  parallel  to 
the  AE  line,  and  locate  N.  This  raised  line 
indicates  the  curve  for  the  neck. 

EN  Connect  E  and  N  by  a  slightly  curved 
line.  This  line  indicates  the  back  part  of 
the  neck  of  the  middy. 

KO  From  K  draw  a  line  7y2"  long  on  the  KL 
line,  and  locate  0. 

OP  From  0  measure  upward  a  line  2y>"  long 
and  parallel  to  the  KA  line,  and  locate  P. 
This  line  is  also  equal  to  one-third  of  one- 
half  the  width  of  the  back  and  is  the  same 
as  the  width  of  the  neck  EM. 

PQ  From  P  draw  a  line  Vi>"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  Q.  This  extended 
line  indicates  the  curve  for  the  armseye. 

NQ  Connect  NQ  by  a  straight  line.  This  line 
is  5%"  long  and  indicates  the  back  shoulder 
seam. 

QO     Connect  Q  and  0  by  a  slightly  curved  line. 

IE.  From  I  on  the  IJ  line  draw  a  line  9y>" 
long,  and  locate  E. 


174  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

RO     Connect  R  and  0  by  a  deep  curved  line. 

This   line    indicates    the    armseye    of    the 

middy.     Use  the  curve  of  the  chart  marked 

"arm  curve. " 
BS     From  B  on  the  BD  line  draw  a  line  10" 

long,  and  locate  S. 
RS     Connect  R  and  S  by  a  straight  line.     This 

indicates  the  underarm  seam. 

Front 

FT     From  F  on  the  CD  line  draw  a  line  2%" 

long,  and  locate  T. 
FU     From  F  on  the  FE  line  draw  a  line  2%" 

long,  and  locate  U. 
UV     From   U   draw  a   line   1/0"  upward   and 

parallel  to  the  CF  line,  and  locate  V. 
VT     Place  the  point  of  the  chart  marked  neck 

curve  and  connect  V  and  T  by  curved  line. 

This  line  indicates  the  front  neck  line. 
XU     From  I"  below  U  draw  a  line  8"  long 

and  parallel  to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  X. 
VW    Place  the  point  of  the  ruler  or  chart  on 

V  and  draw  a  line  51//'  long,  meeting  the 

XX  line  at  this  point.     This  line  indicates 

the  front  shoulder  seam. 
LY    From  L  on  the  LK  line  draw  a  line  P" 

long,  and  locate  Y.     This  line  indicates  the 

chest  measure. 
WYR     Connect  WY  by  a  slightly  curved  line, 


MIDDY  BLOUSE 


175 


and  then  place  the  chart  with  the  arm  curve 
on  Y  and  the  other  end  on  LJ  towards  R. 
This  line  indicates  the  front  armseye. 


FIG.  63. — DRAFT  FOR  SLEEVE 


176  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Cutting  Out  the  Pattern 

Cut  out  around  the  neck  EN  and  the  shoulder 
seam  NQ,  then  all  around  the  armseye,  QORYW, 
the  front  shoulder  seam  WV,  and  the  front 
neck  VT.  Then  separate  the  pattern  at 
RS. 

Drafting  the  Sleeve 

Cut  a  piece  of  paper  23"  long  and  1.6"  wide, 

fold  this   through   the  center   lengthwise,   and 

mark  the  corners  A,  B,  C,  D. 

AB,  the  folded  edge,  represents  the  length  of 
the  sleeve  and  the  fold  of  the  material. 

AC  represents  y2  the  width  of  the  sleeve. 

CE  From  C  measure  down  4",  or  %  of  the 
width  of  the  sleeve,  on  the  CD  line,  .and 
locate  E. 

AE     Connect  AE  by  a  straight  line. 

AI  From  A  on  the  AC  line,  measure  4",  or 
one-half  of  AC,  and  locate  I. 

IJ  From  I  draw  a  line  IB1/^"  long  and  parallel 
to  the  AB  line,  and  locate  J.  This  line  in- 
dicates fhe  highest  point  on  the  shoulder 
and  the  straight  of  the  material. 

IK  From  I  draw  a  line  down  y2"  on  the  IJ 
line,  and  locate  K. 

FG  From  E  on  the  EA  line  measure  2",  and 
locate  G. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  177 

GH     From  G  measure  upward  %"  towards  C, 

and  locate  H. 
AKIIE     Connect  A  and  K,  and  H  and  E  by  a 

curved  line.     This  forms  the  top  or  upper 

part  of  the  sleeve. 
AF     Measure  down  on  the  AB  line  IS1/:/'*  and 

locate  P.     This  point  indicates  the  elbow 

of  the  sleeve. 
FO     From  P  draw  a  line  parallel  to  the  AC 

line,  and  locate  0. 
CL     From   C   on   the   CD  line   measure   down 

11%",  or  one-half  of  CD,  and  locate  L. 
LD  From  L  measure  over  1",  and  locate  D. 
DFO  Connect  L  with  F  by  straight  lines. 

DFO  represents  the  pleat  at  the  elbow  of 

the  sleeve. 
DR     From  1)  on  the  DB  line  draw  a  line  lVi>", 

and  locate  R. 
EDO     Connect  EDO  by  a  curved  line.     Use  the 

curve  marked  "sleeve  curve"  of  the  chart. 

Then   draw  a   straight  line   connecting   0 

and  R. 
RS     Measure  upward  from  R  %",  and  locate  S. 

This  will   shorten  the  inside  seam  of  the 

sleeve.     The  dotted  lines  near  N  indicate 

the  pleats  to  fit  the  sleeve  to  the  cuff.     (See 

Fig.  63.) 
SB     Connect  S  and  B  by  a  curved  line.     If  a 

cuff  is  desired,  deduct  the  width  of  the  cuff 


178  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

from  the  sleeve  (for  example,  3"  long  on 
the  BA  line),  and  locate  N. 
SM     From  S  draw  a  line  3"  long  on  the  SOE 
line,  and  locate  M.     This  will  form  the  cuff 
and  will  be  deducted  from  the  sleeve. 

Cutting  the  Pattern 

1.  Cut  along  the  AKHE  line. 

2.  Cut  the  inside  seam,  EDOS. 

3.  Cut  along  the  RB  line,  and  if  a  cuff  is  de- 
sired, cut  along  the  NM  line. 

Drafting  the  Collar 

1.  Paste  the  shoulder  seam  NQ  of  the  back 
of  the  pattern  on  the  shoulder  seam  WV  of  the 
front.     (See  Fig.  64.) 

2.  Take  a  piece  of  paper  22"  long  and  12" 
wide,  fold  it  through  the  center  lengthwise,  and 
mark  the  corners  A,  B,  C,  D. 

3.  Place  the  paper  with  the  folded  edge  to- 
ward the  left  hand. 

4.  Take  the  pattern  where  the  back  and  the 
front  are  pasted  together  and  place  it  with  the 
center  back  over  the  folded  edge  of  the  collar 
pattern.     Place  the  line  marked  "bust  line"  on 
the  lower  cut  edge  of  the  folded  paper.     Pin  the 
paper  and  the  middy  pattern  together  securely. 
IX    From  I  measure  6"  on  the  bust  line,  and 
locate  X. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE 


179 


A  Z 


FIG.  64.— DRAFT  OF  COLLAB  FOB  MIDDY  BLOUSE 


180  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

O    Raise  the  neck  line,  E,  %",  and  locate  0. 

OU     Connect  O  and  U  by  a  curved  line. 

K  Measure  8"  from  the  front  neck  on  the  TH 
line,  and  locate  K.  This  indicates  the  open- 
at  the  front. 

KTU  Turn  the  point  KTU  over  on  to  the 
pattern  and  crease  this  turn  well.  The 
crease  UK  indicates  the  opening  in  the 
front,  and  the  point  T  turned  over  will  form 
the  revere  for  the  under  part  of  the  collar. 

AZ  From  A  on  the  AC  line,  measure  2y2", 
and  locate  Z. 

ZtJ     Connect  Z  and  U  by  a  straight  line.     This 

line  indicates  the  inner  edge  of  the  collar. 
Take  a  tracing  wheel  and  trace  along  the  OUZ 

line  and  then  along  the  curved  UT2  line.     This 

curved  line  indicates  the  seam  for  the  under 

part  of  the  collar. 

Cutting  Out  the  Collar  Pattern  (See  Fig.  65). 

1.  Take  off  the  middy  pattern. 

2.  Cut  out  the  neck  line  by  following  the 
tracing  OU  and  continue  the  straight  line  from 
U  to  L. 

3.  Unfold  the  pattern  at  the  center,  and  cut 
through  the  middle  from  B  to  O. 

4.  On  one  piece,  cut  through  the  traced  line 
OUT2.     This  will  give  one-half  of  the  pattern 


MIDDY  BLOUSE 


181 


for  the  lower  part  of  the  collar.     Mark  BO 
"center  fold." 


I 

I  '• 


v  H/ 

V 


QLLAR 


12" 


FIG.  65.— CUTTING  OF  UPPER  AND  LOWER  PARTS  OF  THE  COLLAB 


182 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


5.  Cut  the  remaining  long  piece  along  the 
line  OUL.  This  is  the  upper  part  of  the  collar. 
Mark  OB  on  this  piece  "center  fold." 


FIG.  66. — PATTERN  OF  MIDDY  PLACED  ON  MATERIAL  44"  WIDE 


FIG.  66B. — PATTERN  OF  MIDDY  PLACED  ON  MATERIAL  36"  WIDE 
A  full  garment  can  be  made  from  2  yds.  of  material 


184  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Folding  the  Material  for  Cutting   (See  Figs. 

66 A,  66B). 

1.  Take  Indian  head  (44"  wide)  and  cut  off 
one  length  of  25"  or  26". 


Fio.  07. — MIDDY  BLOUSE  PARTLY  FINISHED 
A,  Lower  part  of  collar  stitched  to  middy:  B,  top  part  of 
collar  stitched  to  lower  collar;  C,  stitching  %"  from  the  edge 
near  the  slit ;  D,  the  edges  which  extend  from  the  upper  part  of 
the  collar  are  joined  in  a  plain  seam;  E,  the  edge  is  turned 
and  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  collar  are  stitched;  F,  pleat 
pinned  near  wrist ;  G,  cuff  partly  stitched  to  sleeve. 

2.  On    the    selvage    edge    turn    back    10". 
Crease  it  carefully. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  185 

3.  Place  the  center  back  of  the  paper  pattern 
on  the  fold  of  the  material.     At  the  neck,  let 
%"  of  the  material  extend  beyond  the  pattern. 

4.  Take  the  other  selvage  arid  fold  it  to  meet 
the  first  selvage.     This  will  give   a  fold   12" 
wide. 

5.  Take  the  pattern  marked  "  center  front " 
and  place  it  on  the  new  fold.     Let  Vii"  of  the 
material  extend  beyond  the  pattern  for  the  seam 
at  the  neck. 

6.  Pin  the  parts  of  the  pattern  to  the  ma- 
terial carefully. 

Tracing,  Cutting,  and  Pressing  the  Seams 

1.  Allow  for  a  %"  seam  all  around  the  neck, 
shoulder,  and  armseye. 

2.  Cut  out  the  goods. 

3.  Separate  the  front  from  the  back  by  cut- 
ting along  the  selvage. 

4.  Do  not  unpin  the  pattern. 

Creasing  and  Pressing  tine  Seams    (See  Fig. 

74.) 

Do  not  remove  the  pattern  from  the  material 
until  all  the  seams  are  carefully  turned  back 
over  the  pattern  and  pressed  back.  To  do  this : 

1.  See  that  the  pattern  is  pinned  very  se- 
curely to  the  material. 

2.  Turn  over,  all  around  the  paper  pattern, 
one   layer   only,  of   the   material.     Turn   this 


186  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

around  the  neck,  shoulder  seam,  armseye  and 
the  waistline. 

3.  Crease  the  turn  well  exactly  over  the  edge. 
Crease  it  first  by  hand  and  then  press  it  with  a 
hot  iron. 

4.  Now  turn  the  middy  wrong  side  out  and 
crease  the  extending  seam  over  so  that  it  is 
exactly  even  with  the  first  turned  edge. 

Making 

1.  Take  the  front  piece  of  the  blouse  and  lay 
it  flat  on  the  table  with  the  right  side  up  and 
shoulder  seams  extending. 

2.  Take  the  back,  lay  the  pressed  shoulder 
seam  so  as  to  cover  the  pressed  line  of  the  front 
shoulder  seam. 

3.  Be. sure  that  the  points  NV  at  the  neck 
and  the  points  QW  near  the  armseye  meet  ex- 
actly. 

4.  Put  pins  at  right  angles  to  the  seam,  one 
near  the  shoulder  seam,  one  near  the  neck,  one 
in  the  middle.     Pin  each  shoulder   seam  and 
then,  without  basting,  stitch  very  close  to  the 
turned  edge. 

5.  Turn  the  waist  inside  out  and  make  a  %" 
flat  fell  seam. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  187 

Cutting  Out  the  Top  Part  of  the  Collar  and  the 

Sleeves 

1.  Cut  off  one  22"  length  of  the  44"  Indian 
head. 

2.  Measure  along-  the  width  12"  and  pull  a 
thread.     Cut  this  piece  off.     This  will  give  the 
piece  for  the  upper  part  of  the  collar. 

3.  Cut  two  paper  sleeve  patterns  and  place 
these  so  that  they  dove-tail  each  other.     (See 
Fig.  66  B.)     If  this  precaution  is  taken  two 
sleeves  may  be  cut  without  piecing. 

4.  Cut  out  the  sleeves. 

5.  Around  the  upper  part  of   each   sleeve 
crease  a  %"  turn  and  press  this  well. 

6.  Mark  the  center  of  each  sleeve  at  the  top 
and  the  bottom  with  -<a  contrasting  thread  or  a 
pin. 

Putting  in  the  Sleeve 

The  waist  is  stitched  to  the  sleeve  with  a  flat 
fell  seam  of  the  same  width  as  the  shoulder 
seam. 

1.  Fold  the  middy  with  the  edges  of  the 
underarm  seam  together  and  put  a  pin  at  the 
upper  part  of  the  shoulder.  This  point  comes, 
ordinarily,  %"  from  the  shoulder  seam  towards 
the  front. 


188  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Lay  the  sleeve  flat  on  the  table  with  the 
marked  upper  edge  towards  you. 

3.  Be  sure  that  the  armseye  is  well  pressed 
and  lay  the  right  side  of  the  middy  with  the  pin 
at  the  center  shoulder  to  the  pin  at  the  center 
of  the  sleeve. 

4.  At   this   point,   pin   the   middy   and   the 
sleeves  together. 

5.  Take  the  armseye  of  the  middy  in  your 
hand.     Start  from  the  pin  at  the  center  and 
pin  from  the  right  to  the  left.     Lay  the  middy 
over  the  sleeve  so  that  the  seam  of  the  middy 
covers  the  crease  pressed  in  the  sleeve. 

6.  As  you  follow  the  line  of  the  sleeve  stretch 
the  middy  a  little.     Put  pins  about  2"  apart  at 
right  angles  with  the  seam. 

7.  When  one  side  is  pinned  start  again  from 
the  center  point  and  repeat  the  process. 

8.  Pin  the  two  sleeves ;  then,  without  basting, 
stitch  very  close  to  the  edge  for  the  shoulder 
seam. 

9.  Turn  the  middy  inside  out  and  make  a 
14"  flat  fell  seam. 

10.  On  account  of  the  great  curve  of  this 
seam,  it  is  advisable  to  baste  it. 

11.  Make  a  second   stitching  on  this   seam. 
Inexperienced  stitchers  will  find  it  easier  to  get 
an  even  seam  if  they  put  the  second  stitching 
on  the  right  side. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  189 

Adjusting  the  Sleeve  to  the  Cuff 

The  fullness  of  the  sleeve  at  the  wrist  may  be 
shirred  in  or  pleated  to  fit  the  cuff.  For  be- 
ginners it  is  easier  to  shirr  the  fullness  at  the 
wrist.  To  do  this: 


FIG.  68. — FITTING  UNDER  ARM  AND  SIDE  SEAM  OF  MIDDY 
A,  Sleeve,  under  arm,  and  side  seam  pinned  for  fitting;   B, 
collar   ready   for   outside   stitching 

1.  Put  a  coarser  thread  than  previously  used 
-a  No.  50 — on  the  machine. 

2.  Make  the  stitch  as  long  as  possible. 

3.  Make  a  loose  lower  or  upper  tension. 


190  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

4.  Make  two  jows  of  stitching  close  to  the 
end  of  the  sleeve. 

5.  Find  the  middle  of  the  sleeve  and  put  a 
pin  at  that  point. 

6.  Draw  up  the  loose  threads  in  each  row 
of  stitching  to  the  size  of  the  cuff  which  will  be 
9"  or  10". 

7.  For  the  method  of  pleating  the  fullness  of 
the  sleeve,  see  Fig.  63  MN. 

Cuff 

The  cuff  on  this  middy  will  be  closed  and, 
therefore,  must  be  large  enough  to  slip  over  the 
hand.  (See  Figs.  67  F,  67  0.) 

Cut  the  cuff  10"  by  6"  and  pin  it  to  the  sleeve. 
Do  not  stitch  it  until  the  waist  has  been  fitted 
and  the  length  of  the  sleeve  and  the  size  of  fhe 
cuff  is  decided. 

Fitting 

It  is  advisable  to  fit  the  middy  after  the  shoul- 
der seams  are  finished  and  the  sleeves  are 
stitched  to  the  blouse.  This  is  done  in  order  to 
decide  on  the  depth  of  the  seam  that  can  be 
taken  in  from  the  sleeves  and  the  underarm 
seam.  (See  Fig.  68  A.) 

1.  Pin  the  sleeve  seams  together.  Begin 
from  the  seam  at  the  sleeve  and  pin  towards  the 
wrist. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  191 

2.  Pin  the  underarm  seam  together. 

3.  Start  again  from  the  underarm  seam  and 
pin  towards  the  hem. 

When  both  sides  are  pinned  then  try  the 
middy  on,  adjust  it  well  around  the  neck  and 
shoulders  and  decide  on  the  width  of  the  cuff 
and  the  size  of  the  hem  at  the  bottom. 

Cutting  Out  the  Lower  Collar  and  the  Cuff 

1.  Cut  off  one  length  of  12"  of  the  44"  In- 
dian head. 

2.  Cut  off  one  width  of  12"  and  pull  a  thread. 
This  will  give  the  piece  for  the  lower  part  of 
the  collar. 

3.  Cut  off  two  pieces  6"  by  10".     This  will 
give  the  pieces  for  the  two  cuffs.     A  piece  18" 
by  12"  will  be  left. 

Cutting  Out  the  Lining  for  the  Collar 

1.  Take  the  piece  of  material  12"  by  12"  cut 
out  for  the  lower  collar,  and  fold  it  lengthwise 
through  the  center. 

2.  Place  the  pattern  with  the  words  "center 
front"  on  the  folded  edge  of  the  material  and 
trace  all   along  the   neck  line  with   a   tracing 
wheel.     Trace  firmly  so  that  the  seam  is  very 
distinct  on  both  sides. 

3.  Cut  out  the  neck.     Leave  only  %"  seam 
around  the  traced  neck  line. 


192  GARMENTS  FOE  GIKLS 

4.  Mark  the  center  fold  with  a  contrasting 
thread. 

Cutting  Out  the  Upper  Part  of  the  Collar 

1.  Take  the  piece  of  material  22"  long  and 
12"  wide  which  was  cut  off  the  piece  from  the 
sleeve. 

2.  Fold  this  through  the  center  lengthwise 
and  crease  this  fold  well. 

3.  Place  the  upper  collar  pattern  marked 
'  '  center  fold ' '  on  the  fold  and  on  the  lower  edge 
of  the  material. 

4.  Pin  the  pattern  securely  to  the  material 
and  trace  firmly  along  the  neck  and  the  front 
line. 

5.  Cut   out  the   collar.     Leave   only  a   %" 
seam  along  the  traced  line. 

Sewing  the  Lining  of  the  Collar  to  the  Middy 

1.  See  that  the  edges  of  the  collar  are  per- 
fectly straight. 

2.  See  that  the  neck  line  of  the  collar  is  well 
and  evenly  traced.     Mark  the  center  back  with 
a  contrasting  thread. 

3.  Leave  only  14  "  seam  around  the  neck  of 
the  middy  and  around  the  collar. 

4.  Pin  the  center  back  and  the  right  side  of 
the  blouse  to  the  center  back  and  the  right  side 
of  the  collar. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  193 

5.  Starting  from  the  center  back  toward  the 
left  side  pin  the  collar  to  the  middy,     (a)  See 
that  the  tracing  line  of  collar  and  the  middy 
meet  exactly,     (b)  Be  sure  that  the  front  edges 
of  the  collar  and  middy  are  perfectly  even. 

6.  When  the  left  side  is  pinned,  start  from 
the  center  toward  the  right  side  and  pin  the 
collar  and  the  middy  together  in  as  on  the  left 
side. 

7.  Stitch  the  collar  to  the  middy  with  a  plain 
seam. 

8.  Press  the  seam  open  with  the  thumb  and 
forefinger. 

9.  On  each  side  of  the  seam  stitch  the  raw 
edges  down  very  close  to  the  stitching  line. 

10.  Trim  off  the  raw  edges  close  to  the  stitch- 
ing line.     (See  Fig.  67  A.) 

Sewing  on  the  Top  Part  of  the  Collar   (See 
Fig.  67). 

1.  See  that  the  edges  are  very  even.     It  is 
advisable  to  pull  a  thread  on  each  edge  to  be 
sure  that  the  lines  are  perfectly  straight. 

2.  Put  the  center  of  the  right  side  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  collar  on  the  center  of  the 
right  side  of  the  lining  of  the  collar.     See  that 
the  tracing  around  the  neck  of  the  top  and  the 
lining  of  the  collar  meet. 

3.  Pin  the  lining  to  the  upper  part  of  the 


194  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

collar.  Put  pins  along  the  center  of  the  top 
part  of  the  collar  from  the  neck  to  the  outer 
edge. 

4.  Next  pin  the  lower  edges  together.     Start 
from  the  center  and  pin  each  side  together. 

5.  Pin  one  side  of  the  lining  to  the  upper 
part  of  the  collar.     Start  at  the  corner  of  the 
collar  and  pin  the  collar  to  the  middy.     Put  pins 
at  right  angles  to  the  edge  until  the  end  of  the 
slit  is  reached. 

6.  Do  the  same  thing  at  the  other  side  of  the 
collar. 

7.  See  that  the  warp  and  woof  of  the  collar 
run    in    the    same    direction    and    that    the 
upper  as  well  as  the  lower  side  is  perfectly 
smooth. 

8.  Start  at  the  end  of  the  slit  and  stitch  y8" 
from  the  slit  and  then  %"  from  the  edge  all 
around  the  collar  until  opposite  the  starting 
point.     Leave  as  small  a  seam  as  possible  near 
the  slit,  just  enough  so  that  the  material  will 
not  fray.     A  deep  seam  will  make  the. middy 
pucker. 

9.  Stitch  the  ends  which  extend  from  the 
side  of  the  collar  with  a  plain  seam.     Crease  the 
seam  well.     Press  very  flat  between  the  thumb 
and  forefinger. 

10.  Open  the  seam  all  around  the  collar  and 
crease  it  well. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  195 

11.  Turn  the  collar  inside  out.     Crease  the 
seam  around  the  collar  again  as  flat  as  possible 
and  make  square  corners.     If  possible,  press 
the  collar  with  a  hot  iron. 

12.  Next  stitch  the  collar  all  around  on  the 
right  side.     Begin  from  the  end  of  the  slit  and 
stitch  all  around  to  the  opposite  starting  point. 
Stitch  very  close  to  the  edge. 

Finishing  the  Collar  on  the  Inside 

1.  Turn  the  middy  inside  out. 

2.  Pin  the  curve  of  the  lining  of  the  collar 
and  the  curve  of  the  upper  part  of  the  collar 
together. 

3.  Turn  the  raw  edges  under  and  stitch  the 
collar  to  the  middy,  from   shoulder   seam  to 
shoulder  seam  only. 

4.  All  around  the  side  edges  and  the  bottom 
of  the  collar  turn  the  raw  edges  under  and  stitch 
close  to  the  turned  edge.     Stitch  the  collar  only. 
Do  not  stitch  it  to  the  middy. 

Putting  on  the  Cuff 

1.  The  width   of  the  cuff  depends  on  the 
length    of   the    sleeve.     Ordinarily   the    width 
varies  from  2"  to  3"  when  finished. 

2.  For  a  closed  cuff  the  size  of  the  cuff  de- 
pends upon  the   size   of  the  hand.     The   cuff 
should  slip  over  the  hand  easily  when  the  seams 


196  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

are  made.     An  average  measure  for  a  finished 
cuff  is  21/:/'  by  9". 

3.  Draw  up  the  shirring  thread  of  the  sleeve 
to  fit  the  cuff  and  sew  the  cuff  by  following  the 
instructions  given  for  putting  on  the  band  on 
the  sewing  apron. 

Stitching  the  Sleeve  Seam  and  the  Underarm 
Seam 

1.  See  that  the  edges  of  the  seams  of  the 
armseye  meet. 

2.  See  that  the  cuff  is  even  in  length  and  that 
the  top  edges  meet. 

3.  Stitch   the    sleeve   and   underarm   seam. 
Make  a  %"  seam. 

4.  Open  the  seam  and  crease  it  well.     Cut 
off  the  raw  edges  and  fell  the  back  part  of  the 
middy  over  the  front  part.     The  width  of  the 
seam  should  match  the  armseye  seam  and  the 
shoulder  seam. 

Putting  on  the  Pocket 

1.  Prepare  a  pocket  3"  by  4"  and  cut  it  to 
a  point  at  the  bottom. 

2.  Measure  approximately  3"  from  the  arms- 
eye  and  6"  from  the  shoulder  seam  and  stitch 
the  pocket  to  the  middy  according  to  the  di- 
rections given  for  stitching  the  pockets  to  the 
apron. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE 


197 


3.  For  method  of  making  a  set-in  pocket, 
see  Fig.  69. 


FIG.  09. — POCKET  OPENING  BOUND  WITH  BIAS  STRIPS 

A,  Bias  pieces  basted  and  stitched;  B,  bias  piece  pulled  through 

slit;  C,  bias  piece  finished  with  arrow  head 


198  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

Eyelet 

1.  Measure  up  from  the  end  of  the  slit  y2". 
Measure  over  y2"  and  make  a  dot.  This  indi- 
cates the  place  for  .the  first  eyelet. 

2.*  Measure  up  iy2".  This  indicates  the 
place  for  the  second  eyelet. 

3.  Mark  the  third  and  last  eyelet  1%"  from 
the  second  one. 


FIG.  70. — EYELETS 

A,  Eyelet  made  with  the  overhand  stitch;  B,  eyelet  made  with 
the  blanket  stitch 

4.  Mark  the  eyelets  on  the  opposite  side  in 
the  same  way.    For  making  the  eyelets,  see  Fig. 

70. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Draft  the  pattern. 

2.  Place  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

3.  Cut  out  the  middy. 

4.  Stitch  the  two  shoulder  seams. 

5.  Stitch  the  middy  to  the  sleeves. 


MIDDY  BLOUSE  199 

6.  Sew  on  the  lower  part  of  the  collar. 

7.  Sew  on  the  upper  part  of  the  collar. 

8.  Pin  the  underarm  seams  of  middy  and  sleeve 
together. 

9.  Prepare  the  cuff. 

10.  Gather  the  sleeve. 

11.  Pin  the  cuff  to  the  sleeve. 

12.  Try  on  the  middy  and  adjust  the  width  around 
the   bust    and    the    hips,    adjust    the    length    of    the 
sleeves,  and  decide  on  the  width  of  the  hem. 

13.  Stitch  the  cuff  to  the  sleeve. 

14.  Make  underarm  and  side  seam. 

15.  Hem  the  bottom. 

16.  Prepare  and  pin  on  the  pocket. 

17.  Make  the  eyelets. 

18.  Press  the  garment. 

19.  Compute  the  cost  and  compare  the  middy  with 
a  ready-made  one. 

20.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What    are    the    required   measurements    for    a 
middy  ? 

2.  How  are  these  obtained? 

3.  How  was  the  pattern  drafted  ? 

4.  Name  suitable  materials  that  may  be  used  for 
a  middy. 

5.  How  is  the  pattern  placed  on  the  material? 

6.  Name  the  short  cuts  that  may  be  used  in  the 
making  of  the  middy. 

7.  What  is  characteristic  of  a  well-fitting  middy? 


CHAPTER  XV 

SHIIIT  WAIST 

Shirt  waists  are  made  of  a  great  many  differ- 
ent materials.  They  may  be  made  of  silk,  wool, 
cotton  or  linen.  The  material  should  be  chosen 
with  regard  to  its  use  and  suitability.  The 
main  factors  to  be  considered  in  buying  shirt 
waist  material  for  everyday  wear  are  ease  in 
laundering  and  durability. 

Required  Material 

One  and  one-half  yards  of  material  32" 
or  36"  wide  will  make  a  shirt  waist  for 
the  average  girl.  (See  Fig.  73  for 
placing  the  pattern  on  the  material.) 

Standard  Measurements 

Length  of  back  15",  bust  38". 

From  these  measurements,  according  to  in- 
structions given  in  Chapter  XIV,  the  following 
measurements  are  obtained: 

Length  of  back  15",  width  of  back  13"+  1" 
=  14",  underarm  seam  71/./',  length  of  front 
15y2",  width  across  the  chest  15",  bust  38",  neck 
13",  waist  26",  length  of  the  sleeve — elbow 

200 


SHIRT  WAIST  201 

length  13"— total  length  22y2".     For  the  taking 


of  measurements  see  Fig.  5. 


FIG.  71. — SHIRT  WAIST  MADE  our  OF  ONE  AND  ONE-HALF 

YARDS  OF  MATERIAL 
The  skirt  is  described  on  page  144,  Fig.  51 

Drafting  the  Pattern 

Cut  a  piece  of  paper  22"  long  and  20"  wide. 
Mark  the  corners  A,  B,  C,  D. 
AB  represents  the  length  of  the  waist  and  the 

center  back. 
AC  represents  one-half  of  the  front  and  back 

widths  of  the  waist. 


202 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


CD  represents  the  center  front. 

AE    From  A  measure  V  on  the  AB  line,  and 

locate  E. 
EF    From  E  draw  a  line  parallel  to  the  AC 

A  L C 


FIG.  72. — DRAFT  FOB  SHIRT  WAIST 

line,  and  locate  F  on  the  CD  line.    Mark 
this  line  i '  neck  line. ' ' 

EG    From  E  measure  15"  down  on  the  AB 
line  and  locate  G. 


SHIRT  WAIST  203 

GH     From  G  draw  a  line  parallel  to  the  AC 

line,  and  locate  H  on  the  CD  line.     Mark 

this  line  "back  waistline." 
El    From  E  measure  7y2"  on  the  AB  line,  and 

locate  I. 
IJ     From  I  draw  a  line  parallel  to  the  AC  line, 

and  locate  J  on  the  CD  line.     Mark  this 

line  "bust  line." 
EK     From  E  measure  3%"  on  the  AB  line, 

and  locate  K. 
KL     Draw  a  line  from  K  parallel  to  the  AC 

line,  and  locate  L  on  the  CD  line.     Mark 

this  line  "chest  line." 

Drafting  the  Back 

EM    From  E  measure  2*4"  on  the  EF  line, 

and  locate  M. 
MN     From  M  draw  a  line  %"  long  and  parallel 

to  EA,  and  locate  N. 
EN     Connect  E  and  N  by  a  curved  line.     This 

will  form  the  back  neck  line. 
KG     From  K  draw  a  line  1"  long  on  the  chest 

line,  and  locate  0. 
OP    From  0  draw  a  line  21/4'/  long  and  parallel 

to  the  KE  line,  and  locate  P. 
PQ     From  P  draw  a  line  y2"  long  and  parallel 

to  the  EF  line,  and  locate  Q.     This  will 

form  the  curve  of  the  armseye  near  the 

shoulder  seam. 


204  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

QN    Connect  Q  and  N  with  a  straight  line. 

This  will  form  the  shoulder  seam. 
QO     Connect  Q  and  0  with  a  slightly  curved 

line.     This  will  form  part  of  the  armseye. 
IR     From  I  on  the  bust  line  measure  9",  or 

one-fourth  of  the  bust  measure,  and  locate 

R. 
RO     Connect  R  and  0  by  a  curved  line.     Use 

the  curve  marked  ' l  arm  curve ' '  in  the  chart 

in  order  to  have  a  perfect  curve. 
GS     From  G  measure  8"  on  the  waistline,  and 

locate  S. 
SR     Connect   R   and   S  with   a   straight  line. 

This  line  indicates  the  underarm  seam. 

Drafting  the  Front 

FT  From  F  measure  2y2"  on  the  CD  line,  and 
locate  T. 

FIT  From  F  measure  2y2"  on  the  neck  line, 
and  locate  U. 

UV  From  U  draw  a  line  %"  long  upward  and 
parallel  to  the  FC  line,  and  locate  V. 

VUT  Connect  VUT  with  a  curved  line.  Use 
the  curve  of  the  chart  marked  "neck 
curve. "  This  line  indicates  the  front  of 
the  neck.  Measure  down  1"  from  U  on  the 
CD  line,  and  locate  X.  Starting  from  be- 
low U  draw  a  line  about  6"  long,  parallel 
to  the  AC  line,  and  locate  2X. 


SHIRT  WAIST  205 

VW    Place  the  point  of  the  chart  beginning 

with  V  on  V  and  draw  a  line  the  length  of 

the  back  shoulder  seam  or  514".     Let  the 

5^r/  meet  the  horizontal  line  X,  and  locate 

W. 
LY    From  L  draw  a  line  7V/'  long  on  the  chest 

line,  and  locate  Y. 
WY     Connect  W  and  Y  with  a  slightly  curved 

line. 
YE.    Place  the  chart  with  the  "arm  curve "  on 

Y  and  let  the  point  rest  on  the  bust  line. 

Draw  the  arm  curve. 
TZ    From  T  measure  15y2"  on  the  CD  line,  or 

the  length  of  the  front,  and  locate  Z. 
Z2    Measure  6"  and  locate  Z2. 
SZ2     Place  the  sleeve  curve  of  the  chart  on  S 

and  connect  S  and  Z2  with  a  curved  line. 
For  a  close  fitting  shoulder  seam  make  the 
front  shoulder  seam  14"  shorter  than  the  back 
and  stretch  it  on  the  back  seam.  Be  sure  that 
V  and  N  and  Q  and  W  meet.  Curve  the  shoul- 
der seams  at  the  middle,  A,  14". 

Cutting  Out  the  Pattern 

Cut  the  pattern  out  along  the  back  neck  line 
EN,  the  shoulder  seam  NQ,  around  the  armseye 
QRYW,  the  front  shoulder  seam  WV,  and  the 
front  neck  VUT.  Cut  around  the  waistline 
GSZ2  and  Z.  Separate  the  pattern  at  RS. 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


FIG.  73. — PATTERN  OF  SHIRT  WAIST  PLACED  ON  MATERIAL 
36"  WIDE 


SHIRT  WAIST  207 

Parts  of  the  Shirt  Waist 

1  back,  2  fronts,  2  sleeves,  2  cuffs,  1  collar. 

Placing  the  Pattern  on  the  Material  (See  Fig. 
73.) 

There  are  no  seams  allowed  on  the  pattern. 
The  edge  of  the  pattern,  as  in  the  middy,  is  the 
line  where  the  seams  are  to  be  joined.  This  in- 
dicates the  stitching  line. 

Allow  %"  for  all  seams.  Do  not  trim  the 
edges  on  the  two  fronts  until  the  shirt  waist 
has  been  tried  on  and  until  the  style  of  the  collar 
and  the  closing  of  the  front  have  been  decided 
upon. 

Creasing  and  Pressing  the  Seams 

Do  not  remove  the  paper  pattern  from  the  ma- 
terial until  all  of  the  edges  are  turned  back  over 
the  pattern. 

1.  Pin  the  pattern  securely  to  the  material. 

2.  Fold  one  layer  of  the  material  over  the 
paper  pattern  at  the  neck,  the  shoulder  seams, 
the  underarm  seams,  the  armseye,  arid  the  waist- 
line.    Turn  over  only  one  layer  of  the  material. 
Crease  this  well  over  the  edges.     Crease  it  first 
by  hand  and  then  press  it  with  a  hot  iron.     (See 
Fig.  74.) 

3.  On  the  opposite  side  crease  the  extending 


208 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


seams  back  so  that  the  two  creased  edges  are 
exactly  even.     Press  with  a  hot  iron. 

4.  In  washable  material  crease  and  press  the 
center  front.     In  silk  or  woolen  material  mark 


FIG.  74. — SHIRT  WAIST  PATTERN  PINNED  TO  MATERIAL 

A,  Seams  creased  over  the  pattern ;  B,  arm  seam  notched  to  fit 

the  pattern 

the   center   front   with   a   contrasting   basting 
thread  or  with  tailor's  chalk. 


SHIRT  WAIST  209 

5.  Turn  back  and  crease  a  %"  turn  around 
the  top  of  each  sleeve. 

MAKING 

Shoulder  Seam 

1.  Take  the  front  and  the  back  and  lay  the 
right  side  of  the  pressed  back  shoulder  seams 
directly  over  the  right  side  of  the  pressed  front 
shoulder  seams,  letting  the  front  seams  extend. 

2.  Be  sure  that  the  points  at  the  neck  NV 
and  the  points  near  the  armseye  Q  and  W  ex- 
actly meet.     Put  pins  at   right  angles  to  the 
seam  at  these  points  and  a  pin  in  the  center  of 
the  shoulder  seam.     Stitch  close  to  the  edge 
without  basting. 

3.  Turn  the  waist  inside  out  and  make  a  flat 
fell  seam.     This  seam  varies  in  width  accord- 
ing to  the  type  of  shirt  waist.     For  an  average 
shirt  waist  14"  seam  is  the  accepted  width.     If 
the  material  does  not  fray  and  one  is  in  a  hurry 
a  second  stitching  may  be  made  on  the  right 
side  !/4"  from  the  first  without  turning  the  edge 
under  on  the  inside.     This  will  give  a  quicker 
and  an  equally  satisfactory  finish. 

Putting  in  the  Sleeve 

The  sleeve  may  be  sewed  with : 

1.  A  flat  fell  similar  to  the  shoulder  seam 
of  the  middy.     For  this  method  see  Fig.  67  A. 


210  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  A  French  seam. 

3.  A  French  fell. 

Pinning  the  Band  to  the  Waist 

1.  Pin  the  center  of  the  back  of  the  waist  to 
the  point  marked  the  center  back  of  the  waist 
band. 

2.  Pin  each  side  seam  to  the  corresponding 
"balance  point,"  marked  on  each  side  of  the 
center  of  the  band. 

3.  Pin  each  center  front  to  each  end  of  the 
band. 

4.  Draw  up  the  basting  thread  around  the 
waistline  to  fit  the  band. 

5.  Fasten  the  ends  of  the  basting  thread 
around  the  pins  at  each  front. 

6.  Adjust  the  fullness  at  the  waist  to  the 
band.     See  that  most  of  the  fullness  comes  to- 
ward the  center  of  the  front.     On  each  side  of 
the  underarm  seam  for  l1/^/'  there  should  be  no 
fullness. 

7.  Adjust  the  fullness  in  the  back.     See  that 
most  of  the  fullness  is  in  the  center  of  the  back 
and  that  the  fullness  is  evenly  divided. 

8.  Pin  the  fullness  in  place. 

Fitting  the  Shirt  Waist 

1  •* 

1.  Try  on  the  shirt  waist  and  pin  together 
carefully  the  ends  of  the  band  with  the  lines 
indicating  the  waist  measure.  (See  Fig.  76  A.) 


SHIRT  WAIST  211 

2.  Pin  the  line  which  marks  the  center  front 
of  the  right  side  to  the  line  which  marks  the 
center  front  of  the  left  side.  Be  sure  to  have 
the  edges  even  at  the  neck.  Put  three  or  four 
pins  along  the  front. 


FIG.  75. — SHIRT  WAIST  PREPARED  FOR  FITTING 
A,  One-quarter  of  waist  minus  three-quarter  inch ;    B,  "bal- 
ance point."     Underarm  seam  of  waist  and  side  seam  of  skirt 
meet  at  this  point;  C,  yoke  marked  and  pinned  to  waist. 


3.  Adjust  the  shoulder  seams.     See  that  the 
sleeve  hangs  straight  over  the  arm.     Adjust  the 


212 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


length  of  the  sleeve.    Decide  on  the  width  of  the 
cuff. 

4.  Examine  the  underarm  seam.  See  that 
the  waistline  and  the  band  are  properly 
placed. 


FIG.  76.— SHIRT  WAIST  PREPARED  FOR  FITTING 

(Front  view.) 

A,  One-quarter  of  waist  measure  plus  %"  ;  B,  "balance 
point";  C,  collar  turned  under;  D,  connecting  points  of  yoke 
and  waist. 

5.  Examine  the  neck.     See  that  the  neck  line 
is  well  rounded  and  well  marked.     There  should 


SHIET  WAIST  213 

not  be  any  points  at  the  end  of  the  shoulder 
seams. 

6.  Decide  upon  the  front  closing. 

7.  Decide  upon  the  type  of  collar. 

Making  the  Waist 

After  the  waist  has  been  examined  and  any 
necessary  alterations  have  been  made  sew  the 
sleeves  and  underarm  seams  with  a  French 
seam. 

Front  Closing 

1.  Measure  from  the  marked  center  front  on 
the  right  side  front  2"  towards  the  front  edge 
of  the  waist.     Measure  this  on  the  top  and  on 
the  bottom  of  the  waist  and  draw  a  line  with 
the  dull  end  of  a  scissors. 

2.  Fold  and  crease  the  line  firmly  on  the 
right  side  along  the  center  front  line. 

3.  Put  the  edge  of  the  extending  2"  on  the 
center  front  line. 

4.  Turn  the  raw  edges  under  so  that  both 
edges  are  exactly  even. 

5.  Baste  the  two  folds  together  i/2"  f rom  the 
edge. 

Left  Side  Front 

Make  a  %"  hem  on  the  inside  of  the  left  side 
front  and  stitch  this  in  the  traced  center  front 
line. 


214  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

To  Make  Looped  Buttonholes  (See  Fig.  71). 

1.  Take  12"  of  bias  banding  i/2"  wide  and 
stitch  the  turned  edges  together  and  very  close 
to  the  edge  of  the  fold. 

2.  Divide  this  into  six  pieces. 

3.  Take  one  of  these  pieces  and  fold  it  with 
the  cut  ends  together. 

4.  Let  the  stitching  line  form  the  top  line. 
Crease  it  well. 

5.  Turn  the  center  fold  toward  the  inside. 
The  stitching  lines  will  meet  and  will  form  a 
point  at  the  end. 

6.  Run  a  basting  thread  near  the  cut  edges 
so  as  to  hold  the  seams  together. 

7.  Make  the  remaining  buttonholes  like  the 
one  just  finished. 

Putting  the  Buttonholes  on  the  Waist 

The  buttonholes  are  put  in  between  the  front 
edges  of  the  right  side  front  in  groups  of  three. 
Leave  14"  between  the  buttonholes.  The  first 
group  should  come  exactly  below  the  opening 
of  the  neck  of  the  collar.  Place  the  second 
group  3"  below  the  first  group.  The  length 
of  the  buttonhole  depends  on  the  size  of  the 
button. 

Finishing  the  Bottom  of  the  Shirt  Waist 
The  bottom  of  the  shirt  waist  may  be  finished 


SHIRT  WAIST  215 

with  a  rubber,  by  sewing  the  shirt  waist  into  a 
band,  by  sewing  a  waist  band  to  the  shirt  waist 
and  having  the  bottom  extend  below. 

1.  First  Method 

(a)  Make  a  %"  hem  all  around  the  bottom  of 
the  shirt  waist. 

(b)  Cut  a  rubber  y2"  wide  and  2"  smaller 
than  the  waist  measure. 

(c)  Draw  the  rubber  through  the  hem. 

(d)  Fasten  the  ends  of  the  rubber  securely 
into  the  hem  at  each  end.     Stitch  the  ends  and 
the  rubber  several  times. 

(e)  Find  the  center  of  the  rubber  and  the 
center  back  of  the  waist  and  stitch  through  this 
place  several  times. 

2.  Second  Method 

The  band  may  be  made  out  of  anv  remnants 
of  muslin  and  may  be  pieced  several  times.  The 
width  is  optional.  The  finished  band  may  be 
1",  2",  or  2y2"  wide. 

(a)  Cut  a  band  twice  the  desired  width  plus 
J/4"  for  turning  under,  and  the  length  of  the 
waist  measure  plus  V. 

(b)  Prepare  the  band  according  to  the  di- 
rections given. 

(c)  In  sewing  the  band  to  the  waist,  follow 
the  directions  given  for  the  sewing  apron. 


216  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

3.  Third  Method 

(a)  Use  either  a  %"  webbing  or  make  a  band 
out  of  remnants. 

(b)  Find  the  center  and  the  balance  point. 
Pin  this  band  at  the  center  back  and  at  the 
marked  waistline  and  sew  the  side  seams. 

(c)  Stitch  all  around  the  band.     Stitch  only 
as  far  as  the  side  seams. 

(d)  Leave  the  front  of  the  waist  loose.     The 
waist  will  iron  easier. 

(e)  Put  a  buttonhole  and  a  button  at  the  ends 
of  the  band. 

Sewing  on  the  Collar 

The  collar  may  be  cut  after  the  same  pattern 
as  the  lining  of  the  collar  of  the  middy.  The 
directions  given  for  sewing  on  the  collar  may 
be  followed  with  a  few  exceptions. 

1.  Stitch  the  collar  to  the  waist  and  press 
the  seam  open. 

2.  Cut  off  the  raw  edges  of  the  seam  very 
close  to  the  edge. 

3.  Take  a  y±"  fine  bias  banding  and  pin  this 
over  the  seam. 

4.  Stitch   the   binding   to   the    shirt   waist. 
Stitch  it  close  to  each  edge. 

5.  Be  careful  to  make  neat  corners. 

Cuffs 

The  width  of  the  cuff  depends  on  the  length 


SHIRT  WAIST  217 

of  the  sleeve.  It  may  be  2",  2y2",  or  3"  wide. 
Sometimes  a  wide  cuff  may  be  turned  over  1", 
thus  forming  a  revere.  The  size  of  the  cuff 
depends  on  the  size  of  the  hand.  If  the  cuff  is 
closed  it  should  slip  over  the  hand  easily. 

Making  the  Cuff 

Cut  the  cuff  twice  the  desired  width,  and  the 
length  plus  the  seams. 

1.  Pin  the  right  side  of  the  cuff  to  the  wrong 
side   of   the   sleeve.     Make   the    seam   of   the 
cuff  and  the  seam  of  the  sleeve  one  continuous 
seam. 

2.  Pin  the  center  of  the  cuff  to  the  center  of 
the  sleeve. 

3.  Draw  up  the  gathering  thread  until  the 
sleeve  fits  the  cuff. 

4.  Stitch  the  cuff  to  the  sleeve  and  proceed 
as  for  sewing  the  band  to  the  apron. 

Press  the  shirt  waist. 

Mark  the  initials  on  the  inside  of  the  front  of 
the  belt. 

Compute  the  cost;  the  time. 

Fitting 

It  is  advisable  to  fit  the  waist  after  the  shoul- 
der seams  are  finished  and  the  sleeves  are  put 
in  so  as  to  determine  the  length  of  the  sleeve  and 
the  width  of  the  underarm  seam. 


218  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

1.  Pin  the  sleeve  seam  together.     Start  from 
the  underarm  seam. 

2.  Pin  each  front  and  back  of  the  waist  to- 
gether. 

3.  Run  a  strong  basting  thread  along  the 
marked  waistline. 

Preparing  the  Band 

1.  Take  a  piece  of  muslin  about  V  wide  and 
several  inches  longer  than  the  waist  measure. 

2.  From  the  center  measure  a  distance  equal 
to  one-half  of  the  waist  measure. 

3.  Put  pins  at  each  point  thus  measured. 

4.  Fold  the  band  so  as  to  find  the  middle  of 
these  pieces  and  the  center  of  the  band,  and  put 
pins  at  these  points.     This  will  divide  the  band 
into  four  equal  parts. 

5.  From  each  of  the  center  points  marked  by 
pins,  measure  %"  toward  the  center  back  of  the 
band.     Mark  these  points  with  either  a  pencil 
or  a  contrasting  thread.     The  band  will  meas- 
ure from  the  back  toward  the  side  14  of  the 
waist  measure  minus  %",  and  the  side  toward 
the  front  will  measure  %  the  waist  measure 
plus  %".     The  point  thus  obtained  is  called  the 
"balance  point,"  and  it  is  an  important  one, 
since  all  seams  are  laid  with  reference  to  it. 


SHIRT  WAIST  219 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Draft  the  pattern. 

2.  Cut  out  the  pattern. 

3.  Place  and  pin  the  pattern  on  the  material. 

4.  Press  the  seams  of  the  back,  the  front,  and  the 
sleeves  of  the  shirt  waist  over  the  paper  pattern. 

5.  Pin  the  shoulder  seams  together. 

6.  Stitch  the  shoulder  seams  together. 

7.  Pin  the  sleeves  into  the  shirt  waist. 

8.  Stitch  the  sleeves  into  the  shirt  waist. 

9.  Pin  the  seams  of  the  sleeves  and  the  underarm 
seams. 

10.  Draw  a  strong  shirring  thread  around  the  traced 
waistline. 

11.  Prepare  the  waist  band. 

12.  Pin  the  waist  band  around  the  waistline. 

13.  Draw  up  the  shirring  thread  around  the  waist- 
line to  fit  the  band. 

14.  Try  on  the  shirt  waist. 

15.  Pin  the  band  together  in  front. 

16.  Pin  the  front  together. 

17.  Adjust  the  shirt  waist  in  its  proper  place  and 
look  for  alterations. 

18.  Make  the  necessary  alterations. 

19.  Decide  how  low  the  neck  is  to  be  cut. 

20.  Decide  on  the  front  closing. 

21.  Decide  on  the  width  of  the  cuffs. 

22.  Make  the  front  closing. 

23.  Sew  on  the  collar. 

24.  Sew  on  the  cuffs. 

25.  Finish  the  waist  around  the  bottom. 


220  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

26.  Press  the  waist. 

27.  Compute  the  cost. 

28.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  are  the  required  measurements  for  a  shirt 
waist  ? 

2.  How  are  they  taken  ? 

3.  Is  it  always  necessary  to  take  all  of  these  meas- 
urements ? 

4.  How  are  the  measurements  of  the  shirt  waist 
related  to  each  other? 

5.  What  width  of  material  cuts  to  best  advantage 
for  the  shirt  waist? 

6.  What  materials  are  best  suited  for  shirt  waists 
to  be  worn  on  different  occasions? 

7.  What  is  the  average  amount  of  material  re- 
quired to  make  a  shirt  waist? 

8.  Mention  different  ways  that  a  shirt  waist  may 
be  finished  around  the  neck,  along  the  front,  around 
the  cuff,  and  at  the  bottom. 

9.  What  short  cuts  can  be  suggested  in  the  mak- 
ing of  a  shirt  waist? 

10.  What  seams  are  used  in  the  shirt  waist  ? 


CHAPTER  XVI 

CORSET  COVER 

The  corset  cover  is  a  garment  worn  by  every 
girl.  Sometimes  it  is  used  in  combination  with 
a  petticoat,  sometimes  in  combination  with  a 
chemise  or  drawers.  No  matter  how  it  is  used, 


pIG  77— CORSET  COVER  Fo-  FIG.  78.— CORSET  COVER  FIN- 
ISHED WITH  A  BAND  AT  THE  ISHED  WITH  A  "PEPLUM" 
WAISTLINE  AT  THE  WAISTLINE 

the  shirtwaist  pattern  may  always  be  used.  The 
only  difference  is  that  the  corset  cover  is  cut  out 
deeper  around  the  back  and  the  front  neck.  The 
shoulder  seam  in  the  corset  cover  near  the  arm- 

221 


222  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

hole  is  ordinarily  from  V  to  I1/-/'  wide.     This 
width  varies  according  to  the  trimming. 

The  material  which  is  used  for  undergar- 
ments such  as  muslin,  longcloth,  cambric,  and 
nainsook,  may  be  used  for  the  corset  cover. 
The  choice  of  material  and  the  trimming  should 
depend  upon  the  wear  the  garment  will  have. 


FIG.   70. — FRENCH  UNDERWEAR  WITH  VALENCIENNES  LACES 
AND  INSERTIONS 

For  everyday  wear,  good  strong  muslin,  long- 
cloth,  or  cambric  are  the  most  durable  mate- 
rials. Use  only  such  trimming  as  will  outwear 
the  material.  Flimsy  laces  and  ribbons  should 
be  worn  only  on  rare  occasions.  (Fig.  79.) 

Adapting  the  Shirt  Waist  Pattern  to  the  Corset 
Cover 

Do  not  cut  up  the  shirt  waist  pattern.     Cut 


CORSET  COVER 


223 


out  another  one  and  on  this  one  cut  out  the  back 

and  the  front  neck.     (See  Fig.  80.) 

WS     Measure  from  W  li//'  on  the  WU  line  and 

locate  S. 
LI     From  L  on  the  LI  line,  measure  3l/2">  and 

locate  I.     Connect  S  and  I  by  a  curved  line 


FIG.  80. — DRAFT  FOR  CORSET  COVER 

and  T  and  L  by  a  straight  line.     Repeat  the 
same  in  the  back. 

Q8     From  Q  on  the  QN  line,  measure  V/v",  and 
locate  S2. 


224  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

KI    From  K  on  the  KO  line,  measure 
and  locate  I2. 

Connect  I2  and  S2  by  a  curved  line  and  I2 
and  K  by  a  straight  line. 

Cut  out  the  back  and  front  neck  along  these 
lines. 

Ordinarily  the  front  is  cut  out  1"  lower  than 
the  back. 

Before  cutting  away  the  material,  decide  on 
the  trimming  and  on  the  finish  of  the  neck  and 
the  armseyes. 

The  neck  may  be  cut  square  or  round. 

Parts  of  the  Corset  Cover 

Back  piece,  2  front  pieces,  1  belt. 

Required  Material 

30"  of  27"  material  will  make  a  corset 
cover  for  an  average  person,  and  a 
piece  15"  by  8"  will  be  left.  The  same 
length  will  be  needed  if  36"  material  is 
used  and  there  will  be  twice  as  much 
left.  It  is,  therefore,  more  economical 
to  cut  two  corset  covers,  as  one  length 
of  50"  will  make  2  corset  covers,  or 
three,  as  64"  will  make  three  corset 
covers.  There  are  enough  pieces  from 
which  the  bands  may  be  cut. 

Placing  the  Pattern  on  the  Material  (See  Fig. 
81.) 


CORSET  COVER  225 

Tracing  the  Pattern  on  the  Material  and  Cut- 
ting the  Corset  Cover 

With  the  tracing  wheel,  trace  all  around  each 
part  of  the  pattern.  Be  sure  to  trace  around 
the  center  front  line.  No  seams  are  allowed 
on  the  pattern;  therefore,  allow  14  "  seam  all 
around  except  at  the  front.  Here  V  to  2"  must 
be  allowed,  according  to  the  front  closing.  In 
cutting  out  two  or  more  corset  covers,  pin  the 
pieces  for  each  garment  together  carefully. 

Making 

The  fronts  may  be  finished  by  making  a  plain 
%"  hem  on  both  the  right  arid  the  left  side,  a 
box  pleat,  or  an  invisible  closing. 

The  first  method  is  so  simple  that  it  does  not 
need  any  explanation.  The  second  method  is 
explained  in  the  making  of  the  shirt  waist.  The 
third  method,  on  account  of  the  transparent 
waists  which  are  being  worn  at  the  present  time, 
is  preferred  now.  No  button  or  buttonholes 
show  in  this  method  of  closing. 

Making  the  Invisible  Closing 
I.     Right  Side  Front 

1.  Along  the  marked  center  front  on  the 
right  side  of  the  front  piece,  measure  %"  to- 
ward the  front  edge. 


226 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


FIG.  81. — CORSET  COVEU  PATTERN.     Three  covers  can  be  made 
from  63  inches  of  material 


CORSET  COVER  227 

2.  Draw  a  thread  at  this  point.     Fold  the 
extending    material    towards    the    inside    and 
crease  the  fold  well. 

3.  Turn  a  %"  hem  on  the  left  side  and  crease 
this  well. 

4.  Cut  a  piece  of  material  1%"  wide  and  the 
length  of  the  front  of  the  corset  cover. 

5.  Fold  this  piece  through  the  center  length- 
wise   and   crease    it   well.     This   is   the   piece 
(called  the  fly)  which  will  be  put  under  the  hem. 
The  buttonholes  will  be  cut  in  this  piece. 

6.  Slip  the  cut  edges  of  this  piece  under  the 
hem  of  the  front  just  turned. 

7.  Let  this  piece  extend  1/10"  less  than  the 
width  of  the  hem.     It  will  be  turned  on  to  the 
hem  and  must  not  extend  beyond  it. 

8.  Baste  the  fly  and  the  hem  to  the  corset 
cover. 

II.     Left  Side  Front 

Turn  the  hem  on  the  left  side  %"  narrower 
than  the  one  on  the  right  side.  The  right  side 
overlaps  the  left  side  and  no  stitches  of  this 
hem  should  be  visible.  Crease,  pin,  or  baste 
the  front  hems  only.  The  stitching  should  be 
done  after  the  corset  cover  has  been  fitted. 
Side  Seam  (French  Seam) 

1.  Pin  the  back  to  the  front  with  the  wrong 
sides  together. 


228  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Begin  at  the  waistline  and  make  sure  that 
the  tracing  indicating  the  back  waistline  and 
the  tracing  indicating  the  front  waistline  meet 
accurately. 

3.  Then  put  a  few  pins  at  right  angles  to  the 
seam.     The  tracing  line  of  the  front  and  back 
arinseye  should  also  meet.     Pin  each  side  seam 
and  then  stitch  the  first  seam  by  machine.     The 
second  will  be  stitched  after  fitting.     Pin  the 
shoulder     seam    together.     Cut    a    gathering 
thread  at  the  waistline. 

Preparing  the  Band  for  the  Corset  Cover 

1.  Cut  off  a  band  4"  longer  than  the  waist 
measure,  the  4"  to  be  divided  as  follows :     1"  on 
each  side  to  be  turned  under  to  reinforce  the 
band  at  the  button  and  the  buttonhole,  1"  to.  be 
allowed  for  shrinkage,  and  V  for  the  lapping  of 
the  right  over  the  left  side. 

2.  Fold  the  band  end  to  end  to  find  the  cen- 
ter back.     Mark  this  with  a  running  stitch  of 
contrasting  thread. 

3.  From  the  center  back,  on  both  sides,  take 
one-fourth  of  the  waist  measure  and  from  this 
subtract  %".     This  Avill  locate  the  points  for 
the  underarm  seams.     Mark  each  of  these  points 
with  contrasting  thread. 

4.  On  each  side  of  the  center  back  mark  one- 
half  of  the  waist  measure  plus  V.     This  inch 


CORSET  COVER  229 

is  allowed  for  shrinkage  and  lapping.     Mark 
these  points  also  with  a  contrasting  thread. 

5.  At  each  end  turn  under  I"  allowed  for 
reinforcing  the  fastenings. 

6.  Pin  the  right  side  and  the  center  back  of 
the  belt  to  the  wrong  side  and  the  center  back 
of  the  corset  cover.     Pin  exactly  at  the  traced 
waistline. 

7.  Pin  each  marked  side  seam  of  the  band 
to  the  underarm  seam  of  the  corset  cover. 

8.  Pin  each  front  to  each  end  of  the  band. 
Be  sure  that  the  edges  of  the  band  and  the  front 
meet  very  accurately. 

9.  Draw  up  the  gathering  thread  around  the 
waist  to  fit  the  band. 

10.  On  each  side  of  the  side  seam  leave  a 
space  of  I1//'  without  gathering. 

11.  Arrange    the    gathers    carefully.     Leave 
more  gathers  at  the  center  back  and  near  each 
center  front  than  at  the  sides. 

12.  Baste  the  band  to  the  corset  cover  se- 
curely.    Follow   the    waistline    tracing.     (Fig. 
77.)  ' 

Making 

After  the  front  closing  is  made,  the  side  seam 
stitched  once,  the  shoulder  seam  pinned  to- 
gether, and  the  band  basted  in  its  proper  place, 
the  corset  cover  should  be  fitted.  Put  every 


230  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

seam  in  its  proper  place  and  any  mistakes  will 
be  quickly  seen. 

1.  First  pin  the  corset  cover  together  at  the 
waistline. 

2.  Then   pin   the   fronts   together   as   they 
should  be  when  the  garment  is  finished. 

3.  See  that  the  shoulder  and  underarm  seams 
are  in  their  proper  places. 

4.  The  armseye  should  fit  snugly  under  the 
arm.     If  it  is  too  loose  take  in  at  the  underarm 
seam;  if  it  is  too  narrow,  cut  notches  enough 
to  make  the  arm  comfortable ;  but  before  making 
many  alterations,  examine  the  shoulder  seam. 
This,  as  well  as  the  underarm  seam,  helps  to 
regulate  the  width  of  the  armseye. 

5.  The  corset  cover  should  not  fit  tight  over 
the  bust. 

6.  The  fullness  can  be  regulated  by  the  un- 
derarm and  the  front  closing.     If  the  garment 
should  be  too  tight,  the  under  part  of  the  hem 
may  be  left  out  and  a  false  hem  may  be  added. 

Hold  the  trimming  around  the  neck  and  the 
sleeve  of  the  corset  cover  and  decide  how  far 
neck  and  armseye  may  be  cut  out.  The  corset 
cover  should  fit  snugly  around  the  armseye,  but 
it  should  not  bind. 

7.  After    having    decided    upon    all    these 
points : 

(a)  Finish  the  front  closing. 


CORSET  COVER  231 

(b)  Finish  the  underarm  seam  with  a  French 
seam. 

(c)  Join  the  shoulder  seams  with  a  flat  fell. 

(d)  Stitch  the  hand   securely  to  the  corset 
cover  and  open  this  seam  well  and  then  press  it 
hack  on  the  band. 

(e)  Make  an  even  turn  of  1/s//  on  the  cut  edge 
of  the  band  and  turn  it  over,  the  last  stitching 
to  be  on  the  right  side  of  the  corset  cover. 

(f )  Overhand  each  edge  of  the  band  at  the 
front. 

(g)  Stitch  the  band  down  close  to  the  turned 
edge  and  all  around  it. 

Fastenings 

1.  Make  one  horizontal  fan  and  barred  but- 
tonhole in  the  band.     Make  the  first  buttonhole 
in  the  fly  and  directly  under  the  trimming. 

2.  Divide  the  right  side  front  into  three  or 
four  parts  and  cut  the  first  buttonhole  up  and 
down,  and  near  the  trimming  of  the  neck  cut 
the  other  two  or  three  buttonholes  at  equal  dis- 
tances. 

Trimming  of  the  Neck  and  the  Armseyes 

A  great  variety  of  trimmings  may  be  used 
for  corset  covers  but  the  aim  should  be  to  have 
the  trimming  durable  as  well  as  pretty.  Rib- 
bon in  underwear  should  be  used  only  on  rare 


232  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

occasions,  and  not  for  daily  wear.  To  draw  in 
the  surplus  fullness  around  the  neck,  crocheted 
cords  or  tape  may  be  used. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Prepare  the  right  side  front  closing.  • 

2.  Prepare  the  left  side  front  closing. 

3.  Make    the    underarm    seam.     Stitch    the    first 
seam  for  the  French  seam  only. 

4.  Make  two  rows  of  gathering  threads  around 
the  bottom. 

5.  Prepare  the  band. 

6.  Pin  the  corset  cover  to  the  band. 

7.  Pin  the  shoulder  seam  together,  seam  on  the 
right  side. 

8.  Fit  the  corset  cover  and  if  there  are  to  be  any 
alterations,  make  them.     Decide  on  the  neck  finish- 
ing and  the  cutting  out  of  the  neck. 

9.  Stitch  the  shoulder  seams.     Make  a  flat  felled 
seam. 

10.  Finish  the  underarm  seam. 

11.  Stitch  the  band  to  the  corset  cover. 

12.  Stitch  the  front  closing. 

13.  Finish  each  armseye  and  the  neck. 

14.  Cut  the  buttonholes. 

15.  Sew  on  the  buttons. 

16.  Mark  the  initials. 


CORSET  COVER  233 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  pattern  may  be  used  in  cutting  out  the 
corset  cover? 

2.  What  changes  are  made  in  the  pattern  ? 

3.  Name  suitable  materials  that  may  be  used  for 
the  corset  cover. 

4.  .Name  suitable  trimming  that  may  be  used. 

5.  What  points  are  to  be  considered  in  selecting 
the  material?     The  trimming? 

6.  Mention  different  ways  of  finishing  the  top,  the 
bottom,  and  the  front  closing. 

7.  What  seams  are  used  in  the  making  of  the  cor- 
set cover? 

8.  What  is  the' most  economical  way  to  cut  out  the 
corset  cover? 


CHAPTER  XVII 

ENVELOPE  CHEMISE 

The  envelope  chemise  is  a  garment  which  at 
the  present  time  is  well  liked  and  much  worn  by 
young  girls.  It  is  a  combination  of  corset  cover 
and  drawers.  Muslin,  longcloth,  cotton  crepe 
or  seersucker  is  the  material  most  commonly 
used  for  the  chemise.  For  fine  garments,  nain- 
sook may  also  be  used.  (Figs.  82  and  83.) 

Required  Material 

Two  lengths  of  36"  material,  measured 
from  the  shoulder  to  the  knee,  are  re- 
quired to  make  this  garment. 

Pattern 

The  back  of  the  shirt  waist  pattern  is  used 
in  making  the  top  of  the  envelope  chemise. 

Folding  the  Material  for  Cutting  (See  Fig.  84). 

1.  Take  the  two  required  lengths  of  the  ma- 
terial and  fold  them  through  the  center  cross- 
wise and  then  lengthwise.  Make  the  folds  even 

234 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE 


235 


and  pin  the  selvages  together.  Place  the  ma- 
terial in  front  of  you  .with  the  folded  edge  on 
the  left  side,  the  selvage  on  the  right  side  and 
the  cut  edges  on  the  top. 


FIG.  82 


FIG.  83. — BACK  AND  RIGHT 
SIDE  OF   ENVELOPE 

CHEMISE 

A,  Box  pleat,  B,  Box 
pleat  stitched  iy2"  on  each 
side  of  the  pleat. 


FIG.  82. — FRONT  OF  ENVELOPE 

CHEMISE 

A,  Fullness  taken  up  with 
tucks.  B,  Reinforced  front 
closing. 


2.  Take  the  back  of  the  shirt  waist  pattern 
and  place  it  with  the  center  of  the  back  3" 
from  the  folded  edge  so  that  the  center  back 
line  G  is  parallel  with  the  folded  edge  of  the 
goods  and  3"  from  that  edge,  and  the  center 


236 


GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 


of  the  neck  line  E  is  at  the  cut  edge  of  the  goods 
and  3"  from  the  folded  edge  AB.     The  addi- 


3  4  -\//        \      CHUT  Line 


FIG.  84. — DRAFT  FOB  ENVELOPE  CHEMISE 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  237 

tional  3"  will  allow  for  the  necessary  fullness. 

3.  Pin  the  pattern  securely  to  the  cloth. 

4.  This  garment  is  cut  out  lower  around  the 
neck  than  the  shirt  waist.     Therefore,  on  the 
shoulder  seam,  measure  2"  from  the  armseye 
toward  the  neck,  and  locate  N2.     (See  Fig.  84.) 

6.  From  E  on  the  center  back  measure  down 
31/2",  and  locate  K.  From  K  draw  a  line  3U>" 
long  and  parallel  to  the  bottom  of  the  pattern, 
and  locate  Z.  Connect  Z  and  N  by  a  curved 
line.  This  forms  the  curve  of  the  back  neck  line. 
The  front  neck  line  is  drawn  1"  deeper  than  the 
back.  (See  K,Z,.)  Connect  Z,  with  N2. 

Extend  the  KZ  line  to  the  AB  line  and  at  a 
point  V  from  the  folded  edge  AB  draw  a  line  3" 
long  and  parallel  to  the  AB  line.  This  will  in- 
dicate the  place  for  the  first  tuck.  Draw  three 
additional  lines  parallel  to  this  first  line,  and 
%"  apart,  to  indicate  the  remaining  tucks  in 
this  group. 

From  the  last  line  in  this  group,  measure  V 
and  draw  a  line  3"  long  parallel  to  the  first 
group  of  lines.  Then  draw  four  more  lines 
parallel  to  this  first  line  and  14"  apart  for  the 
second  group  of  tucks.  (See  Fig.  84  K2  Z2.) 

Bottom  of  Chemise  (See  Fig.  84). 

The  bottom  of  this  chemise  may  be  finished  in 
different  ways.  The  model  here  presented  is 


238  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

very  simple  in  construction.     It  may  be  made 
with  or  without  the  center  scallop  FJ. 

Preparing  the  Material  for  the  Scallops 

1.  Take  the  lower  folded  edge  and  fold  it 
lengthwise  in   the   middle.     Crease   and  press 
this  well.     This  fold  is  indicated  by  FJ  (Fig. 
84). 

2.  Then    fold    it    again.     Press    this    also. 
This  will  divide  the  width  of  the  material  BD 
into  four  parts,  and  is  indicated  by  I  and  I2 
(Fig.    84).     From   the    lower   folded    edge    I), 
measure  upward  on  the  selvage  2",  and  locate 
H.     Connect   H   with   the   waist   line   S   by   a 
straight  line. 

From  the  lower  folded  edge  B  measure  4" 
upward  on  the  folded  AB  line,  and  locate  L. 

Draw  a  2"  square  in  the  lower  left-hand  cor- 
ner and  locate  BM  and  NO,  connecting  the  dif- 
ferent points  at  the  bottom. 

Connect  LN  by  a  straight  line  and  NIF  I2H 
by  curved  lines.  For  these  curves  use  the 
curves  marked  "neck  curves"  on  the  chart. 

Tracing 

With  the  tracing  wheel  trace : 

1.  Around  the  extended  neck  line  K2Z2. 

2.  Trace  closely  around  the  edge  of  the  pat- 
tern marked  "back  of  shirt  waist "  as  far  as 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  239 

the  center  waistline.  Then  trace  the  waistline 
and  extend  the  line  to  the  folded  edge  of  the 
goods. 

3.  At  the  bottom  trace  the  front  curve  LNI. 

4.  Trace    the    tucks    very    plainly,    so    that 
they  may  be  seen  on  both  thicknesses  of  the 
cloth. 

Cutting  Out  the  Material 

1.  Cut  out  the  upper  extended  neck  curve 
KZN2. 

2.  The  shoulder  seam  N.,Q  and  the  armseye 
QOR. 

3.  The  side  seam  RSH. 

4.  Around  the  bottom  HLF,  as  far  as  I. 

5.  At  this  point  cut  out  the  upper  layer  only, 
NL.     Take  off  the  upper  part  of  the  goods. 
This  is  the  front.     The  longer  piece  with  the 
folded  corners  which  remains  forms  the  back 
part  of  the  chemise. 

6.  From  this  piece  cut  out,  in  the  center  of 
the  back  from  the  extended  waistline   to   the 
neck,   the   3"  allowed   for   fullness.     This   will 
give  the  needed  fullness  in  the  seat  and  less  full- 
ness in  the  back  of  the  waist. 

Making 

1.  Stitch  the  tucks  in  the  front. 

2.  Make  French  seams  for  the  side  seams, 


240  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

or,  if  the  material  is  soft  and  firm,  French  fell 
seams  may  be  used.  This  is  a  satisfactory 
seam  if  the  material  is  both  thin  and  firm. 

3.  Use  the  same  type  of  seam  for  the  back 
seam. 

4.  The  center  of  the  fold   of  the  material 
meets  the  seam  at  the  back  so  that  it  forms  a 
box  pleat  I1/-/'  on  each  side  of  the  center  side 
of  the  seam.     (See  Fig.  83  A,  B.) 

5.  Crease  this  pleat  well  on  both  sides  and 
baste  it  to  the  garment. 

6.  Take  a  piece  of  bias  binding  and  pin  this 
over  the  pleat.     Turn  the  edges  of  the  binding 
under  on  each  side. 

7.  Stitch  the  binding  to  the  garment,  fol- 
lowing the  edge  very  closely. 

Reinforcing  the  Front 

Reinforce  the  point  L  at  the  center  front  with 
a  double  piece  of  material  2%"  by  2"  when  fin- 
ished so  that  the  buttonholes  will  not  tear  out 
so  easily.  To  make  it : 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  muslin  5y2"  long  and  21/4" 
wide. 

2.  Fold  this  through  the  middle  crosswise. 

3.  Stitch  a  plain   seam  on  the  two  longer 
sides. 

4.  Open  these  seams  and  turn  this  piece  in- 
side out. 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  241 

5.  Crease  it  until  it  is  even  and  flat,  and  fold 
it  through  the  center  lengthwise. 

6.  Measure  V  on  the  crease  from  the  folded 
edge  and  put  a  pin  at  that  point. 

7.  Put  the  right  side  of  the  garment  with 
the  point  L  directly  on  the  pin  in  the  piece  al- 
ready prepared. 

8.  Baste  this  piece  carefully  to  the  chemise. 
See  that  the  warp  and  woof  threads  of  the  piece 
arid  the  chemise  run  parallel. 

9.  Make  two  rows  of  stitching,  the  first  one 
very  close  to  the  edge,  and  the  second  %"  away. 
( See  Fig.  82  B.) 

Fitting  the  Garment 

Pin  the  shoulder  seams  together  and  try  the 
garment  on.  See  that  it  hangs  perfectly 
straight  in  the  front  and  in  the  back,  and  that 
the  shoulder  seams  are  in  place.  See  that  the 
garment  fits  snugly  around  the  underarm  and 
shoulder.  Adjust  the  length  and  the  width  of 
the  shoulder  seam.  This  varies  according  to 
the  type  of  trimming. 

Shoulder  Seam 

A  flat  fell  is  used  for  the  shoulder  seam. 

Selecting  the  Trimming  for  Undergarments 
The  neck,  the  armseye,  and  the  bottom  may 


242  GARMENTS  FOE  GIRLS 

be  finished  in  many  different  ways.  Tatting, 
crocheted  lace,  ready-made  lace,  or  embroidery 
beading  and  edging  may  be  used. 

The  essential  point  to  decide  upon  is  the  dur- 
ability of  the  trimming.  It  must  be  strong 
enough  to  outwear  the  garment.  Flimsy,  cheap 
Valenciennes  laces  should  never  be  used  on  un- 
dergarments which  are  intended  for  daily  wear. 
If  the  selection  of  the  trimming  for  the  under- 
garment is  not  carefully  made  you  may  have : 

1.  To  spend  a  great  deal  of  time  each  week 
in   keeping   your   undergarments   pressed.     If 
you  do  not  do  it,  some  one  will  have  to  do  it 
for  you. 

2.  If  you  have  your  undergarments  laun- 
dered outside  the  home,  you  will  have  to  pay 
more  for  laundering.     The  life  of  the  garment 
is  shortened,  arid  after  a  few  washings  you  will 
have  to  mend  them  and  soon  replace  the  worn- 
out  lace.     You  will  incur  not  only  double  outlay 
of  money  but  also  a  great  loss  of  time. 

The  best  trimming  for  undergarments  for 
daily  wear  is  handmade,  either  tatting  or  cro- 
cheted edging.  No  cotton  coarser  than  No.  70 
should  be  used  and  the  crocheting  should  be  done 
tightly.  If  you  do  not  have  the  time  to  make 
your  own  trimming,  then  buy  either  a  good 
strong  embroidery,  on  which  the  scallops  are 
firm,  or  select  a  good  Cluny  or  torchon  lace  made 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  243 

either  of  linen  or  cotton.     Avoid  Valenciennes; 
use  this  only  on  very  fine  materials. 

Finishing  the  Neck,  the  Armseye,  and  the  Bot- 
tom 
I.  First  Method 

1.  Make  an  even  %"  turn  from  the  right  to 
the  inside  of  the  garment,  all  around  the  neck, 
the  armseye,  and  the  bottom  of  the  garment. 
Crease  this  well  and  press  with  a  hot  iron. 

2.  Take  a  14"  bias  binding  and  baste  it  all 
around  the  turned  edge,  using  a  fine  needle  and 
thread.     Do  not  use  a  wide  binding  or  there 
will  be  trouble  with  the  curves.     Stretch  either 
the  lower  or  the  upper  edge  of  the  binding  to 
fit  the  curves.     Miter  the  corners.     Be  careful 
to  see  that  the  edges  are  even.     Begin  at  the 
middle  of  the  back  and  at  the  underarm  seam. 

3.  Stitch  close  to  the  inner  edge  of  the  bind- 
ing or  finish  this  on  the  right  side  with  a  feather- 
stitch. 

4.  (a)  Pin  the  lace  to  the  garment.     Put  the 
pins  at  right  angles  to  the  edge. 

(b)  Hold  the  lace  towards  you  and  sew  from 
the  right  to  the  left. 

(c)  Sew  the  lace  on  with  an  overhand  stitch. 

(d)  Make  a  short,  shallow  stitch.     Take  only 
one  thread  of  the  turned  edges  and  sew  this  to 
the  lace. 


244  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

(e)  Be   careful  when  turning  around  the 
curves  to  full  the  lace  on  and  allow  for  the 
curves. 

(f )  When  turning  the  corners  hold  the  lace 
in.     Be  sure  to  have  as  little  fullness  as  pos- 
sible around  the  corners. 

(g)  If  the  edge  of  the  lace  is  smooth,  the 
lace  may  be  slipped  inside,  between  the  binding 
and  the  garment  and  then  the  three  parts,  lace, 
garment,  and  binding  may  be  stitched  together 
in  one  stitching. 

II.     Second  Method 

This  method  saves  binding. 

1.  Put  the  right  side  of  the  lace  to  the  right 
side  of  the  garment  with  the  selvage  of  the 
lace  toward  the  raw  edge. 

2.  Place  and  pin,  and  at  the  corners  baste 
the  lace  14"  from  the  cut  edges  of  the  neck  and 
armseye  and  around  the  bottom. 

3.  Stitch  the  lace  to  the  garment,  stitching 
very  close  to  the  edge  of  the  lace. 

4.  Fold  the  lace  back  over  the  seam  you  have 
just  stitched  and  crease  the  material  firmly. 

5.  Turn   the   garment   inside   out.     At   the 
edge  of  the  lace,  turn  as  narrow  a  hem  as  pos- 
sible (i/8"  if  the  material  will  allow  it).     Cut 
away  any  surplus  material. 

6.  Crease  and  pin  this  hem  well.    It  is  ad- 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  245 

visable  to  baste  it  around  the  corners.     Stitch 
very  close  to  the  edge  of  the  turn. 

7.  Join  the  ends  of  the  trimming  with  an 
invisible  and  strong  finish. 

Fig.  86  illustrates  the  sewing  on  of  laces  and 
the  spacing  of  tucks  that  may  be  used  in  the 
finishing  of  undergarments. 


FIG.   85. — DETAILS   OF  Q.UICK  METHOD  OF  SEWING  ON   LACE 

BY  MACHINE 

A,  Right  side  of  lace  put  on  right  aide  of  material :  B.  lace 
stitched;  C,  edge  of  material  hemmed;  D,  right  side  of  finished 
edge:  E.  edge  hemmed  by  hand;  F,  lace  sewed  on  with  over- 
hand stitch. 

Making  the  Strap 

To  allow  for  more  room  in  the  back  of  the 
chemise  a  strap  may  be  added  to  the  point  L. 
This  strap  is  made  of  two  thicknesses  of  mate- 
rial and  is  6"  by  2"  when  finished. 

1.  Cut  a  piece  of  muslin  121/2"  by  21/2"  and 
fold  it  crosswise. 


246  GARMENTS  FOR  GIRLS 

2.  Make  a  plain  seam  on  the  long  sides. 

3.  Open  the  seam  and  turn  it  inside  out. 

4.  Finish  the  short  open  end. 

5.  Fold  through  the  center  lengthwise  and 
crease  the  fold. 

6.  Put  the  back  of  the  chemise  with  the  point 


FIG.  86. — FRENCH  UNDERWEAR  WITH  GOOD  SPACING  OF  TUCKS 

L  on  this  center  fold.     Put  it  so  that  the  edge  of 
the  strap  meets  the  edges  of  the  chemise. 

7.  Baste  it  in  place  and  then  finish  with  two 
rows  of  stitching. 

Sewing  the  Strap  to  the  Garment 

1.  Fold  the  strap  through  the  center  length- 
wise.    Crease  this  well.     On  this  crease  meas- 
ure 2"  from  the  end  and  put  in  a  pin. 

2.  Take  the  garment  and  put  the  right  side 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  247 

of  the  center  back  point  L  directly  over  the  point 
marked  by  the  pin. 

3.  Adjust  this  exactly  to  the  center  of  the 
point,  and  see  that  the  lower  edge  of  the  strap 
meets  evenly  with  the  warp  thread  of  the  gar- 
ment. 

4.  Baste  the  strap  carefully  to  the  garment, 
and  then  stitch  very  closely  all  round.     The 
neatest  way  is  to  follow  the  stitching  of  the 
binding  on  the  right  side  of  the  garment. 

5.  For  greater  strength,  make  a  second  row 
of  stitching  :1/s"  from  the  first  row. 

6.  Be   very   careful   to   stitch    square   cor- 
ners. 

Buttons  and  Buttonholes 

On  the  piece  stitched  to  reinforce  the  front, 
mark  two  buttonholes  %"  long  and  directly  un- 
der the  stitching  14  "  from  the  edge.  As  there 
are  three  thicknesses  of  material,  it  is  best  to 
stitch  closely  by  machine  with  a  very  fine  thread 
around  the  marked  buttonhole  before  it  is  cut. 
Then  the  material  will  not  fray.  Make  two 
bars  on  each  of  the  buttonholes. 

Button 

Select  a  very  flat  button,  preferably  a  cloth 
lingerie  button  that  fits  snugly,  but  not  too 
tight,  in  the  buttonhole.  Sew  the  button  on 


248  GAEMENTS  FOE  GIELS 

firmly  with  a  No.  40  single  thread  and  fasten 
the  end  of  the  thread  with  a  few  buttonhole 
stitches. 

Marking 

In  the  center  front,  1"  below  the  bias  binding, 
mark  your  initials  and  embroider  these  with  a 
satin  stitch. 

Pressing 

Press  and  fold  the  garment. 
Compute  the  cost;  the  time. 

TEACHER'S  DIRECTIONS  TO  PUPIL 

1.  Fold  the  material  for  drafting  the  pattern. 

2.  Pin  the  back  of  the  shirt  waist  pattern  to  the 
cloth  and  draft  the  pattern. 

3.  Trace  the  tucks. 

4.  Cut  out  the  envelope  chemise. 

5.  Make  the  tucks. 

6.  Cut  out  the  piece  from  the  center  of  the  back. 

7.  Sew  up  the  back  seam. 

8.  Sew  up  the  side  seams. 

9.  Reinforce  the  center  front  at  the  bottom. 

10.  Put    on   the    trimming   around   the    neck,   the 
armseyes  and  the  bottom. 

11.  Prepare  the  strap. 

12.  Sew  on  the  strap. 

13.  Make  the  buttonholes. 

14.  Sew  on  the  buttons. 

15.  Make  the  initial. 


ENVELOPE  CHEMISE  249 

16.  Press  arid  fold  the  garment. 

17.  Compute  the  eost. 

18.  Figure  out  the  time. 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  materials  may  be  used  for  making  the 
envelope  chemise? 

2.  What  trimmings  may  be  used? 

3.  What  pattern  may  be  used  to  cut  out  the  en- 
velope chemise? 

4.  What  changes  are  made  in  the  pattern? 

5.  What   garment   is   replaced   by   the   envelope 
chemise  ? 

6.  What  are  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of 
this  garment? 

7.  Name  different  ways  that  the  envelope  chemise 
may  be  finished  at  the  top.     At  the  bottom. 

8.  What  seams  are  used  in  making  the  garment  ? 


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OCT 


8  UK 


MAR  29    ;93" 

IQApr'BSjM 
REC'D  LD 


DEC  t  0  2002 


LD  21-50m-8,'32 


UNIVERSE  OK  CAUFORNULIBRARV 


